View Full Version : 430 Engine Stand

07-26-2010, 08:53 PM
In response to a couple of requests, here are the plans for the 430 engine stand. I used leftover landscape timbers, predrilled them for galvanized spikes, and used some heavy duty casters from Harbor Freight. The dimensions can certainly be varied but the key dimension is 23 1/2" between the holes.


07-27-2010, 06:58 AM
Thanks John!

07-27-2010, 12:56 PM
That is too cool.

Now I feel like buying those other 2 Lincoln 430's someone posted off Craig's List & keeping them "tucked away". :cool:

-Jon IN TX.

07-27-2010, 07:47 PM
Guys, this may sound crazy but if you've looked at some of the "test stands" available for running your engine while out of the car, I think my design could be modified for this. I would make the parts with the casters wider to avoid tipping over under the torque. Also something a little better for the rear support. However the starter needs the bellhousing to mount to. Any ideas on this? I could just take the bellhousing off the trans for the test run. Anyone done anything like this? Could you run with the trans attached?


07-27-2010, 09:52 PM
I always run my newly overhauled engines on their cradles.
(Pepper is bugging me to play, 'fetch'.)
I make my cradles "modular" so I can use them for different engines. Some iron is welded, and sub assemblies are bolted. That white stuff on the iron is eating away the rust before I painted it. I needed to use the cradle right away, so I painted some of it now and some of it later.

I left the 'tail' section long to mount the tranny. The feet are spread a little broader than the exhaust manifolds. This engine is 625 pounds (just the engine, no bell housing).

Yes! If you keep the engine low, you can run your engines before installing them. I ran this one several times. Notice, there is no fan. I needed to bring the engine to temperature and let the thermostat open. The heater hoses keep the radiator a safe distance away from the water pump pulley.

I had a battery and a big knife switch next to the engine (on a 'work mate' horse). You can see the wires from the starter and alternator. Yep, a Y-Block with a Ford alternator.

If you rebuild the tranny, and plan on storing it for an extended length of time, you should run it first. This will make sure none of the internals will rust or corrode.

Don't run the tranny dry. I use a special 'cup' I put over the tail shaft in place of the yolk. It clears the spline but seals nicely. Also, run the cooling lines together.

The cradle works sweet. - Dave