View Full Version : 60 Resistor Wire Bypass Question

12-09-2008, 09:44 AM
I need to bypass the resistor wire going to the FlameThrower coil on my 60 -- I found that it needs a full 12 Volts.

I don't know exactly where the resistor wire begins. Would it be best to run another complete wire from the switch?

If I run a new wire from the switch, where is the "I" terminal on the switch, and do I have to remove the switch to do it? Also, what gauge wire?


12-09-2008, 10:27 AM
I looked at the wiring diagram at http://users.wpi.edu/~goulet/TBird/60wiring_diagram.jpg (you have to download the .jpg file and Zoom in to 100% to see anything of any use)

The pink resistor wire appears to go all the way to the switch, unfortunately. It is well labeled in the diagram with an arrow pointing to it.

For a replacement wire, perhaps visit the local hardware store and see how 16 gauge looks to you. I have some on my shelf and the label mentions being "gasoline resistant" which is a good attribute as gas attacks many plastics. Yellow might be a good color as the 12V ones on 58-59 are yellow to the ballast resistor. While at the hardware store you can get appropriate end connectors to solder onto both ends of your wire.


12-09-2008, 10:49 AM

Is there a photo anywhere of the back of the Ignition Switch?

If looking from the back of the switch under the dash, which terminal is the one for the Ignition?

12-09-2008, 10:54 AM
well... the diagram seems to show the pink resistor wire going all the way to the switch and being on a post marked "C" which also has a Black-Green wire on it. No other post has two wires attached so maybe you can narrow it down from this information. (the Black-Green appears to head off to the Generator indicator light)

12-09-2008, 10:56 AM
Thanks -- I see that now. I'll take a look up close now.

12-09-2008, 12:22 PM
Make sure you disconnect the battery!

12-09-2008, 01:03 PM
OK -- I got it done.

This is one of two things that solved my "Cold Start" problem.

I'm making another post to my old thread on that to close it out.

12-11-2008, 09:56 AM
I did mine that way. Works like a champ now.

For future reference for anyone, even if the points are left in place, that resistance wire should be checked/changed. It breaks down over time. My buddy that owns a shop locally (he works on ALL kinds of old cars - he has a Model-A in his shop now) won't use resistor wire. He'll run a new wire with a balast resistor.
My resistor wire litterally crumbled when I went to move it.

12-11-2008, 10:46 AM
that sounds like really good advice. The wire is a "resistance" wire because it has resistance which translates into heat. The heat, over time, makes both the metal and insulation potentially brittle and crumbly.

The ballast resistor isn't a whole lot different in concept but the wire is on material designed to absorb heat, and (most important perhaps) you can carry a spare with you and change it in a matter of a couple minutes should it fail. Plus it's cheap!