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Larry Tappen
09-11-2017, 02:47 PM
hey guys, need some advise on wiring at fuse box on my 64 bird. according to the wiring diagram in the elec. book page#24 4135-2 the picture shows the fuse box with a jumper wire on the circuit breakers, but in the shop manual on page #15-10 fig. 2 shows the jumper in a different spot, so my question is which is correct. and also about wiring, the radio, mine is an am with fader (I think). i'm thinking if it has fader control thus volume control between front and rear speakers which are installed. now where dose the real speaker plug in at radio, or is it part of the large plug when they are together. i'm looking at page #e4-4648-1. thanks for the help, larry:confused:

stubbie
09-13-2017, 02:58 AM
Hi Larry does this help?
http://i.imgur.com/LQE0NMF.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/LQE0NMF)

There should be 4x 2 pin connectors to the left of radio and 1x 4pin connector.
1/ Black/ Black green stripe front speaker
2/ Black/ Blue red stripe radio
3/ Black/ Black red stripe rear speaker?
4/ Black red stripe x2. This goes into one side of 4 way connector.
Then there are 3 wires that go into 4 way connector that also go to the fader knob on the panel next to steering column.They are 1 Red, 1 green, and I think 1 light brown. Hard to tell as my wires have paint on them.
Hope this helps.

Larry Tappen
09-13-2017, 01:20 PM
thanks, stubbie. I see by your picture of the fuse box there are two jumpers, 1- short green wire 2- flat strap of metal which I don't have the medal strap but will make one. about the radio, I thought the fader control was on the radio, rear knob on the right side:confused: thanks for the help, larry

jopizz
09-13-2017, 04:53 PM
about the radio, I thought the fader control was on the radio, rear knob on the right side:confused: thanks for the help, larry

Not all radios had the rear speaker option with the fader. Does your radio have a four wire speaker plug. If it only has a two wire speaker plug then it does not have a fader.

John

stubbie
09-13-2017, 09:01 PM
Larry I would get the wiring diagram and confirm those black/ red stripe wires I'm not 100% sure were they go and I can't find my wire diagram.

Larry Tappen
10-07-2017, 11:38 AM
sorry I had't got back with you about the radio john, my radio has the 4 wire plug from the radio and a 2 wire plug also. when I connect the plugs as shown in the book all I get is a little static sound through the speaker when turning the vol. knob up or down. being this is am radio only I've raised the antenna all the way for better reception, didn't help :(. this radio was checked out by a friend of mine. he says it should work as he could not find any thing wrong with it, thanks larry,ps maybe some one could take a photo of their am radio wiring and post it here, thanks again, larry.

OUR5T8BIRD
10-07-2017, 12:33 PM
sorry I had't got back with you about the radio john, my radio has the 4 wire plug from the radio and a 2 wire plug also. when I connect the plugs as shown in the book all I get is a little static sound through the speaker when turning the vol. knob up or down. being this is am radio only I've raised the antenna all the way for better reception, didn't help :(. this radio was checked out by a friend of mine. he says it should work as he could not find any thing wrong with it, thanks larry,ps maybe some one could take a photo of their am radio wiring and post it here, thanks again, larry.

The two wire plug is the radio power / light power ( both male type and one smaller than the other ). The four wires to speakers, one front and one back speaker .

ps. There are also two curved bracket at the side of the radio which , as well as support, is the radio ground to body tunnel.

jopizz
10-07-2017, 12:41 PM
this radio was checked out by a friend of mine. he says it should work as he could not find any thing wrong with it

What does that mean? Did he actually hear it work? They are very easy to test with a speaker and a 12V source.

John

Larry Tappen
10-07-2017, 04:56 PM
I guess I connected it right. it is grounded by the two side mount straps to tunnel as ground, I bench tested the radio with my 12 volt mini charger and a speaker and makeshift antenna, only heard scratching sound from speaker when turning vol. control up or down. maybe this is no good, thanks guys, larry.

Larry Tappen
10-21-2017, 08:02 PM
stubbie, when I was looking at your picture I seen what looks like a metal strap going from one breaker to another is that correct? it's hard to tell with the shadow. I took and removed all the wires at fuse panel and reinstalled them per wiring diagram. still having issues[turn signals, heater fan blower work with key off], curtesy lights, dash lights not working all fuses are good. i'm stuck. I sure wish I knew what the p.o. did {or didn't do}. just love a good mystery, thanks larry.:(

jopizz
10-21-2017, 08:29 PM
stubbie, when I was looking at your picture I seen what looks like a metal strap going from one breaker to another is that correct?

Without that strap the bottom breaker has no power. You need that strap for it to work.

John

stubbie
10-22-2017, 09:25 PM
Larry I will see if i can get you a better photo later when I get back from work.

Larry Tappen
10-24-2017, 03:29 PM
john, if the strap gives power to the bottom breaker, then the green short wire also gives power to the bottom breaker on the left. I guess I've got the wires correct, but still having problem with turn signals and heater fan operating with the key off. I did a conuity test on the ignition switch with the key off and wires disconnected from switch, it test ok, the light switch is new so I think this should be ok also. don't know where to check now:confused: thanks larry, I hope people aren't thinking i'm totally dumb, but this has me stumped, thanks again.

jopizz
10-24-2017, 03:55 PM
The Black/Green wire on the bottom left breaker is hot with the key on so I'm not sure why the green jumper wire is there. That is giving it power all the time. If you have that green jumper wire remove it and see if your blower still works with the key off.

John

Larry Tappen
10-24-2017, 07:45 PM
john, per your suggestion of removing green jumper, I still have power to fan motor with key off, plus I found I have power with test light from neg batt cable to ground with cable removed from batt. i'm thinking dead short somewhere. using volt meter in place of test light I get 12.7 volts being drawn:eek: will check further tomarow thanks, larry.

jopizz
10-24-2017, 08:35 PM
Make sure your doors are closed or you will have a dead short. Start by removing one fuse at a time and removing power from each breaker one at a time. If you still have a short I would check where the connectors plug in at the firewall.

John

OUR5T8BIRD
10-25-2017, 10:34 AM
hey guys, need some advise on wiring at fuse box on my 64 bird. according to the wiring diagram in the elec. book page#24 4135-2 the picture shows the fuse box with a jumper wire on the circuit breakers, but in the shop manual on page #15-10 fig. 2 shows the jumper in a different spot, so my question is which is correct. and also about wiring, the radio, mine is an am with fader (I think). i'm thinking if it has fader control thus volume control between front and rear speakers which are installed. now where dose the real speaker plug in at radio, or is it part of the large plug when they are together. i'm looking at page #e4-4648-1. thanks for the help, larry:confused:

Just reading these posts again . Larry, you mention a ' fader knob ' next to your steering column . Far as I know, the radios never had a separate fader knob . Is it possible that your car had a " reverberator installed at one time ,or still there . That would require a rear speaker with an a/m radio . the reverberator would be mounted in the trunk in the shape of a metal box with a flat multi- wire coming from it . Some had just the knob on the dash ( rotating as well as pull out/in for on and off. The one I had in my '65 ( once owned ) also had a dimmer switch for on / off control as will as the fader knob or front to rear balance .

Larry Tappen
10-25-2017, 03:44 PM
our5t8bird, the fader control I was referring to is the knob behind the tuning knob on the right side of radio as looking at it. i'm not sure if that knob is called a fader or balance control between the front speaker and rear speaker. when I bought this bird it did not have any speakers so bought two new ones and installed them but radio only gives out some static when turning vol. control up or down. I did a bench test on this radio with 12 volt supply, speaker, and made up antenna. still only static so I decided to install said radio anyway. maybe i'll install fm radio later into the glove box. was hoping this radio would work even if only a few stations then connect a fm converter to it, but now I've got a bigger problem, a big power drain in the wiring that i'm trying to figure out, not having to much luck:mad: thanks to all for letting me ramble, larry.

Larry Tappen
10-25-2017, 04:01 PM
john, thanks for the reply. I did the batt test when the doors were open, didn't know that would make a short. the batt test was with neg. cable off batt. test light and volt meter connected to neg. cable and ground on engine, had 12.7 voltage draw. to me i'm thinking short some where. I'll check as you said pulling one fuse at a time. thanks again, larry.

simplyconnected
10-25-2017, 07:19 PM
Larry, take some pictures. You may send them to me (simplyconnected@aol.com) and I will post them for you.

In addition, after you take pictures I can see, get in front of your car with the wiring diagram and your phone. I will go through the tests with you. We can get this straightened out.

Send the pictures to me then call (248) 544-8834 - Dave

Larry Tappen
10-25-2017, 08:16 PM
to all the helpers out there: I found the electrical plug by fuse panel that goes through the fire wall partly melted and after taking plug apart found the black with {green stripe} badly coroded and broken. this I think is part of my problem. also found the starter solenoid seems to be shorted, I have 12 volts going across the plus cable side and the neg. side with out key on. don't think that is right without key being on to supply voltage. in am i'm going to remove rubber wire plug and splice and solder the wires and go from there. wish me luck, thanks, larry.

jopizz
10-25-2017, 09:49 PM
also found the starter solenoid seems to be shorted, I have 12 volts going across the plus cable side and the neg. side with out key on. don't think that is right without key being on to supply voltage.

You should always have 12V on the battery side of the solenoid. It connects directly to the battery +. There is no negative terminal. The solenoid grounds to the firewall. If you had a short in the solenoid the starter would turn over with the key off.

John

simplyconnected
10-26-2017, 01:57 AM
...i'm going to remove rubber wire plug and splice and solder the wires and go from there...The only reason Ford used plugs and receptacles is to make installing the wire harnesses fast and to make sure none of the wires are crossed. In short, 'you can't get it wrong'.

I suggest you use crimp connectors instead of solder. Many times, I will take a #10 (yellow) ring terminal and cut the ring off. Then, stick both wires to be spliced into the terminal sleeve and crimp it. This is the best connection possible because it offers the least resistance.

Glad you found the melted plug. Oh and... Use a continuity tester across your starter solenoid with the wires removed. - Dave