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tbirdmike63
05-23-2017, 11:04 AM
Hey everyone, I'm trying to get my original alternator off, the top bolt is frozen in the head, I've tried pb blaster, but since the bolt is covered by the spacer I don't think it's getting to where it should be, any tricks to getting the bolt out without breaking it? Thanks!

Deanj
05-23-2017, 11:31 AM
After letting the WD-40 type stuff soak overnight, I like a pipe type extension on the ratchet. You might even try heat on the bolt and apply the 3 foot extension of a floor jack handle on your ratchet.

Dean

tbirdmike63
05-23-2017, 11:42 AM
Really, that much force, what are the chances of the bolt snapping in the head?

Joe Johnston
05-23-2017, 11:55 AM
If you snap the head off you can then remove the alt and get a pipe wrench or vice grip on the broken bolt with penetrating oil on the threads at the block. I have often found the bolts are corroded solid to the aluminum spacers or alt itself and are not seized into the iron block.

tbirdmike63
05-23-2017, 12:01 PM
When I loosen the bottom bolt the alternator swivels, back and forth, so it seems the bolt is not seized to the spacer or alternator itself, but seized in the head, so I'm afraid of it snapping flush to the head.

tbirdmike63
05-23-2017, 12:10 PM
After thinking about it, if the alt. Swivels then it could be seized in the spacer, I hope it is and not the head.

jopizz
05-23-2017, 12:40 PM
Just watch the head of the bolt. If it moves when you swivel the alternator then it's the spacer. If not then it's the bolt.

John

Yadkin
05-23-2017, 01:11 PM
I have often found the bolts are corroded solid to the aluminum spacers or alt itself and are not seized into the iron block.

This. I've managed to remove the long bolt from the block only to have it fight me for another 20 minutes or so to come out of the alternator.

Heat the block with a torch then ice down the alternator/ spacer.

tbirdmike63
05-23-2017, 01:17 PM
Will a propane torch be hot enough?

tbirdmike63
05-23-2017, 06:11 PM
I got it off, I had to cut through the alternator and bolt. Now, i want to replace my 3 belts, it looks complicated, the work shop manual is no help, is there an easy way to find out how to replace the engine belts? Thanks!

Yadkin
05-23-2017, 06:25 PM
I got it off, I had to cut through the alternator and bolt. Now, i want to replace my 3 belts, it looks complicated, the work shop manual is no help, is there an easy way to find out how to replace the engine belts? Thanks!

Take pictures before you start. Start with the outside belt, find the corresponding accessory that has an adjuster and take the tension off, then remove the belt. Proceed to the second, then the third. Use the opposite sequence to reinstall.

Yadkin
05-23-2017, 06:26 PM
Will a propane torch be hot enough? Yes. Heat the casting, not the bolt.

jopizz
05-23-2017, 06:51 PM
I got it off, I had to cut through the alternator and bolt. Now, i want to replace my 3 belts, it looks complicated, the work shop manual is no help, is there an easy way to find out how to replace the engine belts? Thanks!

As the shop manual says to remove the compressor belt loosen the idler pulley. It can't be much easier than that. To change the power steering pump belt loosen the bolts in the front (I think there are three) and one in the back. There aren't any shortcuts; it is what it is.

John

tbirdmike63
05-24-2017, 05:21 PM
Ok, I got the power steering loose, that one was easy. I am trying to loosen the idler for the compressor belt, I sprayed the idler adjusting bolt with pb blaster, when I tried to loosen it, it didn't feel right and I couldn't see the a backside of the bolt turning, so I was afraid it was going to snap, so I soaked it with blaster and I will wait till tomorrow to proceed, if I attempt to use heat, should I heat up the back of the bolt and not the head? Thanks!

Yadkin
05-25-2017, 01:37 PM
When you heat up metal it increases in size, so you heat up the hole and freeze the bolt.

tbirdmike63
05-25-2017, 08:56 PM
Ok, I've had the idler adjusting bolt soaking in pb blaster for 2 days now, I am periodically hitting it with a hammer to break up the corrosion, I tried heating up the square nut on the backside of the idler and still it's not turning, it feels like it's moving but I think it's the head turning not the whole bolt, so I stopped, sprayed it down again tapped on it with a hammer. If I do snap off the head is this something easy to fix, it looks like the square nut on the back is welded to the bracket, how would I fix something like that if the head breaks off? Thanks!

tbirdmike63
05-25-2017, 11:21 PM
OK, I got it loose, it just took a little more heat, heat is our friend! thanks for all the help, next task, get all the belts on and tight!:eek:

simplyconnected
05-26-2017, 02:30 AM
Look to the future because you may be here again, wrenching on the same bolts. Do yourself a favor and replace all the bolts you heated. Visit your friendly Fastenal or Motor City Fastener store. Buy the toughest grade you can as denoted by the hash marks on the head. You will thank yourself later on.

I use Teflon tape on difficult bolts. If you use bushings, wrap the tape around the bolt shank to keep moisture from corroding around the bolt. The same goes for bolts in the aluminum alternator housing. Wrap the threads a couple turns with Teflon and they will come out easier next time because Teflon is a lubricant.

I overhauled a 351W for Brian Wheeler. Two 5/16"-18 water pump bolts were broken flush with the block. The shanks were frozen solid to the bloated holes in the aluminum water pump housing as well. Since the block was already going to the machine shop, those two broken bolts were on the 'to do' list. They turned out nice but I used preventive measures to make sure that problem would not repeat in future.

When the bolts were broken (in Texas), the seal around the water pump was leaking which caused coolant loss and overheating. Not any more, this engine runs sweet and smooth with a new Comp Cams roller cam, Edelbrock aluminum heads and carburetor. - Dave

tbirdmike63
05-26-2017, 09:00 AM
Thanks for the info, I do live close to a Fastenal, I will definitely check that place out. I was going to slather the alternator bolts with anti seize, that should work good, don't you think?

Joe Johnston
05-26-2017, 09:34 AM
Be sure the anti sieze you are using is compatible with aluminum.
Not all products are and their mis-use may cause some aluminum alloys to soften.

tbirdmike63
05-26-2017, 05:28 PM
Hey everyone, I got the alternator installed but the wiring is giving me problems, there are 3 wires a black wire without a rubber cap, I think thats the ground wire, does that connect to the GRD on the back of the alternator. then theres a black wire with a yellow stripe with a rubber cap on it, where does that one connect to, then theres a white wire with a rubber cap on it, where would this connect to. the alternator I bought is a duralast DL7078. The back of my original Alt. is different then this one, the hookups are in different places. Thanks, I know I could find this information on my own, but I feel getting the information from someone who has done this before is more reliable. the last thing I want to do is hook this up wrong. Thanks!

jopizz
05-26-2017, 08:00 PM
The smaller black wire goes to the GRD terminal. The heavy black-yellow wire goes to the BAT terminal and the white wire goes to the FLD terminal.

John

Yadkin
05-26-2017, 08:03 PM
Thanks for the info, I do live close to a Fastenal, I will definitely check that place out. I was going to slather the alternator bolts with anti seize, that should work good, don't you think? Use it sparingly, and never on spark plugs.

tbirdmike63
05-27-2017, 01:11 PM
Ok, I got the alternator on 65 amp. new belts all nice and tight, still the right side indicator freezes when all the accessories are turned on, when the cars in drive what could cause this? Thanks!

jopizz
05-27-2017, 01:53 PM
Can you give us your voltages again in drive with the accessories on now that you have a new alternator. I'd like to compare them to what you were getting before.

John

jopizz
05-27-2017, 02:00 PM
Is it just the indicator on the fender that's freezing? If so it's possible that your indicator bulb is weak to the point when the voltage drops it's breaking down. It's also possible that the bulb socket is corroded. Before I jumped to too many conclusions I would take the bulb out, check the socket and replace the bulb.

John

tbirdmike63
05-27-2017, 04:46 PM
I will do that, do I just unscrew the metal retaining ring then push and turn the bulb, any tricks to getting the bulb or retaining ring off. Thanks!

jopizz
05-27-2017, 05:41 PM
I use needle nose pliers to turn the retaining ring. The entire insides should then come out.

John

tbirdmike63
05-27-2017, 06:38 PM
Ok, thanks, I will do that tomorrow, do you know the light bulb number?

tbirdmike63
05-27-2017, 06:39 PM
Oops, sorry I didn't see the diagram.

jopizz
05-27-2017, 07:14 PM
I'm pretty sure the bulb is a 53.

John

tbirdmike63
05-28-2017, 03:24 PM
Ok, getting the indicator apart was a breeze,. Now getting it back together is another problem with that spring in there, I ground down a nickel, but pushing it in and turning is not easy, and lining up the threads, any tricks I need to know? Thanks

jopizz
05-28-2017, 03:45 PM
any tricks I need to know? Thanks

I wish I could say there was a trick to getting it back together but there isn't. It's one of those jobs that should take two minutes but winds up taking two hours. Usually I take them apart and put them back together off the car. I'm not sure if you are doing it on the car or not.

John

tbirdmike63
05-28-2017, 04:18 PM
Actually I am don't it on the car, I did clean up the inside of the housing with contact cleaner, put in a new bulb and it was still freezing up. I think I need to remove the housing and clean up the connections under it, maybe then I can get it back together. Thanks

tbirdmike63
05-29-2017, 02:59 PM
Well, the right turn indicator seems to be working now, I put a dab of dielectric grease on the tip of the bulb, maybe that helpes the conductivity, I haven't taken the car for a drive yet to see if it keeps working.....Keep you posted.

Yadkin
05-29-2017, 04:46 PM
Well, the right turn indicator seems to be working now, I put a dab of dielectric grease on the tip of the bulb, maybe that helpes the conductivity, I haven't taken the car for a drive yet to see if it keeps working.....Keep you posted.

No it was the contact cleaner. The grease does keep it from getting corroded though.

You will find that most intermittent electrical issues are due to dirty or corroded contacts. One it took me a half-dozen or so tries to clean the contacts in one of the fse holders in the passenger kick plate panel. I finally had to resort to a pink pencil eraser to clean it.

tbirdmike63
05-30-2017, 06:01 AM
I wonder if it would be a good idea to spray the whole fuse panel with contact cleaner, disconnect th battery of course.

Yadkin
05-30-2017, 08:47 AM
I wonder if it would be a good idea to spray the whole fuse panel with contact cleaner, disconnect th battery of course. Absolutely. Take out the fuses, file them so they can be replaced in their correct positions, and make sure they are the correct ratings. Then clean both the board and fuse contacts with contact cleaner and an old toothbrush.

Here is a listing of the fuses in my '64 panel. I've assembled a little kit to keep in my trunk tool kit.

OE FUSE PANEL
NO. AMPS LENGTH TYPE CATALOG
3 15 1-1/4 3AG 15A LITTLEFUSE 0312015 OR BUSSMAN BK/MDL-15R
4 14 1-1/16 SFE14 LITTLEFUSE 0307014
5 2 5/8 1AG 2A lLITTLEFUSE 0AGA002
6 6 3/4 SFE6 LITTLEFUSE 0SFE006
9-11 7.5 7/8 SFE7.5 LITTLEFUSE 030707.5
12 4 7/8 7AG 4A LITTLEFUSE 0AGW004