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sidewalkman
04-21-2017, 08:15 PM
Hi Gang, I was out driving in the Bird and the signals were fine, then half way home I noticed they stopped working.

Is there a fuse or do you think the flasher packed it in. The dash indicator isn't going on and staying on, there's nothing.

Thoughts?

simplyconnected
04-21-2017, 08:21 PM
Do you have a wiring diagram?

sidewalkman
04-21-2017, 08:41 PM
Do you have a wiring diagram?

I just found one on the TRL, I see an inline fuse someplace after the flasher, I'll climb around under the dash, see if I can find it.

You'd think nobody had invented a fuse box, so confusing.

simplyconnected
04-21-2017, 09:14 PM
I believe that flasher fuse is on the rear of your headlight switch, as shown in the diagram. It is NOT in-line.

sidewalkman
04-22-2017, 02:55 AM
I believe that flasher fuse is on the rear of your headlight switch, as shown in the diagram. It is NOT in-line.

I don't want to argue with the guru of Squarebirds but I think it's on the green and ylo wire coming out of the switch, but I'll check the fuses on the switch first and report back. Would make it easier if it's the switch, I know where that is!!!

simplyconnected
04-22-2017, 03:42 AM
I don't want to argue with the guru of Squarebirds but I think it's on the green and ylo wire coming out of the switch, but I'll check the fuses on the switch first and report back. Would make it easier if it's the switch, I know where that is!!!This is an open forum open to the internet. We want to know of any deviation from "factory stock."

Our prints show green with a yellow trace (Green-Yellow) start at the headlight switch (D-post). That wire feeds both door switches with power.

You refer to 'switch' but I don't know which one. If you are looking for a 1960 Thunderbird turn signal unit wire it should be Blue. Power for the flasher unit starts as orange-yellow at the key switch and continues to the headlight switch fuse, then to the flasher unit. After the flasher unit, the wire continues to the steering column connectors (look for a blue wire and blue bullet connector).

I have to say, a blown fuse in the middle of a trip is very rare. Fuses usually blow when something happens to cause overcurrent. - Dave

Deanj
04-22-2017, 11:01 AM
The fuse is on the headlight switch and a short one. I had to tape (insulate) the flasher unit connections because they touched metal and shorted out once accidently. That killed the brake lights and therefore the turn signals, I think.

Dean

JohnG
04-22-2017, 12:11 PM
I had exactly the same thing happen as Dean.

Does the flasher unit have a physical home or is it just kind of on its own? Mine was just stuffed up in the wiring jumble and thus free to move around.

John

jopizz
04-22-2017, 12:30 PM
The flasher unit clamps to the side of the dash frame behind the instrument panel on the right side. You can see it in the picture where the white tabs are. Trying to get it back in place is nearly impossible so I just tape it where it's more convenient and it won't touch any metal.

John

simplyconnected
04-22-2017, 05:29 PM
It's important to note, Ford kept the same mounting place for the flasher unit but made a wiring change in the Squarebird after 1958.

Flasher Unit Power
1958 Squarebirds had a headlight switch with ONE fuse holder attached to the back. Let's start with power at the key switch (A-terminal, Orange-Yellow wire) that feeds the in-line fuse. The fuse feeds the flasher unit, then on to the steering column bullet connector (Blue).

1959 and 1960 Squarebirds had a headlight switch with TWO fuse holders attached to the back. Many vendors only sell this switch, today. It doesn't hurt to have that 'extra' fuse holder and it works for all Squarebirds.

Wiring for these two years is similar to the '58 in that, power still comes from the key switch (A-terminal, Orange-Yellow wire), then it continues to the fuse on the rear of the headlight switch. The fuse feeds the flasher unit, then on to the steering column bullet connector (Blue).

This change is very minor but still different.
Flasher unit power is different from brake light power. In all years, your steering column is fed from two different power sources; one from the brake light circuit and the other from the flasher unit circuit. Remember, turn signals interrupt brake lights.

Stop Switch Power
1958 and 1959 Squarebirds started their stop switch power at the headlight switch (A-terminal, Green wire). It fed the stop (pressure) switch. The 'A' terminal is already protected by the fuse on the back of the headlight switch. The brake switch feeds the steering column through a (Green) wire and bullet connectors.

1960 Squarebird brake lights are wired differently. They have a separate in-line fuse mounted right next to the key switch. Power starts at the key switch (B-terminal, Green wire) that feeds the stop switch. The fuse feeds the steering column (Green ) bullet connectors.

Steering Column wires
For all Squarebird troubleshooting convenience, ALL stop and signal lights can be tested at the steering column bullet connectors. Simply follow the wiring colors in the diagram:

Power
from brake switch - Green
from flasher unit - Blue

Front Lamps
RH Signal - White-Blue
LH Signal - Green-White

Rear Lamps
RH Stop/Signal - Orange-Blue
LH Stop/Signal - Green-Orange

There are two more bullet connectors
horn button - Blue-Yellow
PRNDL lamp - Blue-Red

sidewalkman
04-25-2017, 01:49 AM
This is an open forum open to the internet. We want to know of any deviation from "factory stock."

Our prints show green with a yellow trace (Green-Yellow) start at the headlight switch (D-post). That wire feeds both door switches with power.

You refer to 'switch' but I don't know which one. If you are looking for a 1960 Thunderbird turn signal unit wire it should be Blue. Power for the flasher unit starts as orange-yellow at the key switch and continues to the headlight switch fuse, then to the flasher unit. After the flasher unit, the wire continues to the steering column connectors (look for a blue wire and blue bullet connector).

I have to say, a blown fuse in the middle of a trip is very rare. Fuses usually blow when something happens to cause overcurrent. - Dave

Hi Dave

Of course you were correct, I was probably having an acid flashback. But fuse replaced, signals are back working. I'm pretty sure the whole wiring of the car is stock.

On that note I'm trying to get my micro switch for the washer working but am wonder where I can tap into to get switched power.

Also I have a 3 prong micro switch, 1 is common, power in I'm assuming, then there is normal open and normal closed. I'm assuming to get switch actuation I plug into normal open so the switch closes it and we get power correct?

simplyconnected
04-25-2017, 04:34 AM
Scott, are we talking about 'electric wipers'? You don't offer much detail so that's what I assume. If so, the correct method is to ADD an in-line fuse for both the wiper motor and the squirts. I assume you will use an electric motor pump for the squirts (like most modern cars have). Simply add another ring terminal to your key switch 'A' terminal for the new fuse, but put the fuse somewhere convenient, so you can reach it on a dark Sunday night, when most fuses go south.

BTW, while you're under there, you will find an in-line fuse right next to your 1960 Squarebird's key switch. Extend the wires on that fuse and mount it in a convenient place so you can access it without standing on your head.

Micro switches are very reliable and great but most have a very low current capacity. I use them to turn on a relay. In fact, I'm using a computer mouse micro switch for my brake pedal. It nicely energizes a relay coil but the relay contacts do all the heavy lifting for the lamps. Relays and sockets are cheap and practically bullet-proof.

I always invite different ideas and opinions just in case someone has a better one than mine. I'm always learning too, so don't hesitate to share your thoughts. - Dave

Use your ohm meter or a continuity light to find your normally open contacts. If you are only using two terminals on the switch it doesn't matter which terminal you connect to power.

sidewalkman
04-26-2017, 02:26 AM
Scott, are we talking about 'electric wipers'? You don't offer much detail so that's what I assume. If so, the correct method is to ADD an in-line fuse for both the wiper motor and the squirts. I assume you will use an electric motor pump for the squirts (like most modern cars have). Simply add another ring terminal to your key switch 'A' terminal for the new fuse, but put the fuse somewhere convenient, so you can reach it on a dark Sunday night, when most fuses go south.


Thanks Dave, I made the little micro switch behind the stock squirter switch to convert it to electric. The stock wiper motor is working great after pulling out all the extra vacuum hoses and capping them at the motor. I did the brake fluid trick at the same time and they've worked well ever since. A note to anyone considering running the brake fluid through the vacuum motor, do it outside, I did it in an underground parking lot, it looked like the building was on fire for an hour after. I now have an ohm meter so I'll get back under there to test for a hot connection.

simplyconnected
04-26-2017, 06:15 AM
...Micro switches are very reliable and great but most have a very low current capacity. I use them to turn on a relay...The relay is very important. If you have problems finding a good one with a socket, I can send you one for five bucks plus shipping. - Dave

JohnG
04-26-2017, 07:57 AM
Scott, can you show us a photo of your switch conversion? and
what exact switch you purchased?

thanks!
john

jopizz
04-26-2017, 11:57 AM
Scott, can you show us a photo of your switch conversion? and
what exact switch you purchased?

thanks!
john

The procedure is in the TRL. Here's the link.
http://www.squarebirds.org/WindshieldWasher/Retrofit/WasherPumpRetrofit.htm

John

sidewalkman
04-26-2017, 07:05 PM
John I did pretty much exactly what is in the TRL. I used these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-10Pcs-Micro-Roller-Lever-Arm-Open-Close-Limit-Switch-KW12-3-PCB-Microswitch-/191792184917?hash=item2ca7b47e55