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Djweaz
04-02-2017, 12:32 AM
Couple of issues that have me confused. I tried to put every single thing I did in the steps that I have done every thing.

Running issue. When I got the bird, it didn't run right. Ended up having to change plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, vacuum advance, ignition, ignition wire, had so many issues making it seem like fuel pump, bad spark, ignition wire.

1st I changed was fuel line, as it was rubber from the fuel pump laying on the valve cover around back into the back passenger side of the carb.
2nd replaced coil, cap, rotor, points, vacuum advance(bad)
3rd I saw sparking on the #1 spark plug wire never thought of them cause they only had 30 miles on them, so I replaced them. And the plugs while I was at it. When I was installing them they wouldn't fit in length. Found out that the distributor was 180 out. Fixed it.
4th found the ignition wire was bad because I could start it and it would shut off replaced it.

After doing all these things, I didn't have much of an issue with it as long as I didn't try to do a burnout or floor it. As long as I give it light pedal from a light it was fine. I could go 80moh on the highway no problem whatsoever. If I got caught up in bumper to bumper traffic or sitting idling it would back up flood. I just drove it thru the driving season. After the season was over, first thing that came off was the carb and sent in to the shop to do a professional rebuild. I could have done it myself but I wanted to make sure that it was done properly. Basically I wanted to make sure I didn't screw up. I believe it is an Edelbrock 1406 I know it is a 600cfm and has an electric choke. Which is big enough for the 430 because that's what came factory. I figured it was an accelerator pump issue. Still has the same issue. This car starts perfectly as soon as you turn the key it is running. No cranking to get it started and it just purrs.
I am at a loss for it. The only thing that wasn't changed was the distributor(shaft).
My settings are as follows:
I was worried that the timing had slipped as a lot of the old Fords did. But It was done with the bring the piston to TDC and then check the timing line and it is exactly where it should be so I know it is in time perfectly that way and then the final part was done manually setting the distributor by hand with the vacuum advance hose off and plugged
6 degrees BTDC
Point gap is .016.
Carb screws are about 1 1/4 turn out
I forget what the spark plug gap is but it is set to factory spec.

2nd Issue.
Power windows. Both passenger sides stopped working (out of the blue). I pulled the center console to check power. Passenger rear was almost unplugged plugged it in and tried it and got nothing. So I pulled drivers sides off and passenger front worked but not back. I tested them for voltage and the passenger back one had no voltage. While moving them around the drivers door window stopped working.(no voltage) so from what I see I have one bad switch and driver door and passenger rear no voltage. This strikes me as strange because the fronts are connected from the same power source with a red with a blue line. So they should be drawing current or neither? I don't know where the 15a & 30a is hidden at. Is it behind the wall where the wires go into the hole near the gas pedal is at? I didn't spend a whole lot of time at it. Because I am stumped with both right now.

Any suggestions to either?
.

Tbird1044
04-02-2017, 02:42 AM
There is a single 30A circuit breaker located on the cowl inside the engine compartment. This breaker feeds all 4 windows. There is also a circuit breaker at each window motor, which goes to ground.
Typically I have found that the contacts, inside the switch, get pitted to the point that it creates to much resistance and the windows stop working. The switches can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned.
New switches are also available from the parts houses, but they are pricey. Window motors can also go bad and again new ones are available. I'm pretty sure there is information in the TRL for bench testing and rebuild of these motors.
Nyles

simplyconnected
04-02-2017, 06:03 AM
Rob, follow along with me as this is important for checking your engine timing...

Pull the driver's side (LH) valve cover off. Watch #6 valves as you hand-crank the engine (in the correct direction). First, you will see the #6 exhaust valve descend, then it will raise and the #6 intake valve will just start to move. Right when both rocker arms are dead even, STOP.

Your firing order is:
1-5-4-8-
6-3-7-2

I split it this way so you can see, when #1 is up, so is #6. (It follows, when #5 is up, so is #3 and so on...)

When those rocker arms are dead-even (you can use a straight-edge across the top of both rocker arms), #6 piston is at TDC. The valves are between exhaust and intake but both are slightly open. Right now, look at your damper pulley's timing marks. They should be dead-nuts on TDC. If the cam moved, the crank timing marks will be off. If your timing marks are off, you will need to pull the timing chain off and re-do the timing marks. If your damper shows TDC, leave everything where it is...

At this point, pull your distributor cap off and look. The rotor should point directly at #1 spark plug tower, and it also points at #6 cylinder. Many Ford distributor caps have a '1' embossed in the top.

If the rotor is not pointed at #1 spark plug tower, your distributor is off a tooth. Carefully remove the hold-down bolt, lift the distributor and turn it one tooth in the direction it should go. When setting the distributor back down the oil pump shaft may not engage and the distributor will not drop all the way. If you hold your hand on top of the distributor as you turn the crankshaft about 1/3-turn, it will drop. Keep rotating the crank until those #6 valves are again level, and re-check your rotor position.

If all is well, put your timing marks at 6-degrees BTDC, then rotate the distributor cap until the points just open. Tighten the hold-down bolt. Return your valve cover. Return the distributor cap and start the engine. It should run great.

Carb flooding can be caused by excessive fuel pressure or mal-adjusted floats.

Most electric window problems are in the switch. As said, they can be cleaned. Motors can also be disassembled and cleaned. Carefully follow our TRL instructions on window and seat motors. - Dave

jopizz
04-02-2017, 11:30 AM
The carburetor mixture screws need to be adjusted with the car running. Use a vacuum gauge if you don't have the experience to do it by feel. Setting them to 1 1/4 turns isn't doing any good. That's just a factory setting so you can start the car and then tune it. What do you know about the carburetor. Does it have the correct jets and metering rods/springs. When it was rebuilt did they check all that or just use what was there. Someone may have changed those parts from what it came with. If the jets are too large it will flood out. Where is the accelerator rod set. There are three different settings. The highest one will cause more fuel to pump and could cause flooding also. Download the manual from the Edelbrock site and make sure it's adjusted according to the chart.

As for the windows remove the switch block and use jumper wires to test the functionality. If everything works that way then it's the switches. The 15 amp circuit breakers are only on the ground wires so they have nothing to do with voltage. The two front ones are above the kick panels behind the lower dash trim. The rear ones are clearly visible with the back seat bottom removed.

John

Djweaz
04-02-2017, 11:32 PM
Thanks guys! Hopefully will be able to work on it again tomorrow or the next day I have a rotator cuff that is torn and is filled with RA, so it's in a sling right now letting it rest.

The carb I had the same issue with it last year so I had it rebuilt. One float bowl was gummed up and not even working. The guy hat rebuilt it said he couldn't see how the car even ran. Factory settings on the accelerator pump was in the middle. I actually put it in a different slot last year. I can't remember off the top of my head but it made a difference in it. I never really was one to get into it. But it would bog out at diffeeent times say like the evening time coming home from cruise ins. So then I thought it was the Weather. The next day it might do it during the day and run fine in the evening no rhyme or reason. But I drive it all over Tennessee as well as Kentucky and Alabama. Ran smooth on the highway 70-80moh driving it on the roads and into the cruise in not a studder as long as I drove it normal or if stuck in traffic too long then you could smell the fuel. My area of Tn near Nashville is one over that fastest growing areas in the nation so city roads back up because they weren't meant to have as much traffic. With that, the only way to know it was doing it was trying to floor it. It's just the fact that I know it's not right. And think maybe it should have more power than it does with a 430ci.

Dave I've never heard of that method before but I sure will do it just to learn it and might help me in getting it to TDC and possibly eliminate this issue.

I love this group and the help you can get from it. Maybe someday I will be able to do the exact thing to other people

simplyconnected
04-02-2017, 11:42 PM
Rob, that is the method I use on every build, before I put the timing cover on. Guess you could say I learned to check from the experience of having to time the engine over again. Not any more. - Dave

Djweaz
04-03-2017, 03:08 AM
I used to own a custom computer business. And found before I buttoned the case on an end user computer to boot it up and check it out. Skipping this step and not knowing it after it was up many times you had to go back in and fix something. Taking that extra step might seem like it adds time but it saves it in the long run to spend that extra 5 minutes.

Djweaz
04-06-2017, 01:12 AM
Was able to get out of the sling yesterday and took it easy. I could have worked on it today, but I chose to rest it for another day. Hope to be on it tomorrow

simplyconnected
04-06-2017, 02:08 AM
...Taking that extra step might seem like it adds time but it saves it in the long run to spend that extra 5 minutes.There's another reason why I check closely. I almost always advance my cam to bring the torque curve down a bit.

Some Ford engines were de-tuned from the factory to meet EPA standards. e. g., The 460's cam was retarded nearly fifteen degrees. Replacement parts also reflected this gross error. Anyone who properly times their stock 460 will wake up sleeping Clydesdales in that engine.

I want the best performance possible for the service I build my engines to, so I make sure. I let the cam tell me what the crank timing is. - Dave

scumdog
04-06-2017, 05:54 AM
There's another reason why I check closely. I almost always advance my cam to bring the torque curve down a bit.

Some Ford engines were de-tuned from the factory to meet EPA standards. e. g., The 460's cam was retarded nearly fifteen degrees. Replacement parts also reflected this gross error. Anyone who properly times their stock 460 will wake up sleeping Clydesdales in that engine.

I want the best performance possible for the service I build my engines to, so I make sure. I let the cam tell me what the crank timing is. - Dave

I advanced the cam timing on my 429 by 8 degrees (it was a stock 1970 429 with headers) but by the time the 780 Holley, Edelbrock intake, Crane roller rockers and the Isky 270 cam were thrown into the mix I'm not sure if I noticed what effect advancing the cam had!

But I concur with you Dave, those post '72 385 series were shockers, couldn't pull the skin off a custard...

simplyconnected
04-06-2017, 09:39 PM
I have to explain my terminology. Normally, we reference everything from the crankshaft. This is the only true way to be correct and as you know, RH/LH is always done from the driver's viewpoint. (So, American drivers sit on the LH side AND cylinders 1-4 are on the RH side.)

When I say I advanced the cam, I am really saying I retard the crank timing. It's not confusing if you think about it. Retarding the crank will put the cam timing ahead of (before) TDC on the crank.

Another explanation: If I change cam timing by four degrees, I am really saying that the crankshaft will show eight degrees retarded when the cam is straight up. 'Straight up' is when the cam's #6 valves are dead even between the exhaust and intake, when the fuel mixture scavenges. In other words, both valves are slightly open.

We can check cam timing with the cam card as well, but I check the cam card against this valve setting, just to verify the card's accuracy. (Yes, I've had the wrong card on a cam.)

So Tom, eight crank degrees renders four cam degrees.

Ok... I've seen old timing chains stretch so much they advance the crank four degrees before they jump a tooth.

Timing chain slop can be seen with a timing light pointed at the damper pulley as the engine speed abruptly changes up and down. A new chain will give your engine quick response. e.g., Ever feel that hesitation in the gas pedal when the light turns green? A new chain removes that hesitation, just like when your engine was new. - Dave

scumdog
04-06-2017, 10:50 PM
I hear you Dave.
I had a mate that builds a lot of engines come to my place and check the new cam with his degree wheel.
And I used a new Cloyes tru-roller (I think that's how they spelled it!)timing chain and gears.

I'm learning as I get older "Do it once -do it right"

Or something like that....

simplyconnected
04-06-2017, 11:41 PM
Tom, you did it right. I bought my degree wheel many decades ago, when 'iSKY' cams were in vogue. The only redeeming quality to the wheel is that it's made of metal. Otherwise, anyone can download the artwork and paste it onto a piece of shirtboard. The same holds true for damper pulley graduations. (Notice the pointer I made from wire.)

http://www.squarebirds.org/simplyconnected/390Build/Piston-to-ValveAndTiming/DSCN1071.jpg

This one also has a true roller chain. - Dave

OX1
04-07-2017, 11:14 AM
After doing all these things, I didn't have much of an issue with it as long as I didn't try to do a burnout or floor it. As long as I give it light pedal from a light it was fine. I could go 80moh on the highway no problem whatsoever. If I got caught up in bumper to bumper traffic or sitting idling it would back up flood.
.

Mine does almost exactly the same thing, except
mine will idle all day long. It's seems purely load
based, so I don't think it is a timing chain issue
(that and idle timing with light is real smooth, not
jumping around like a loose chain would).

I need to go all through the distr timing sometime
this summer. If it does turn out to be my chain is
that bad, I will wait and pull the engine/trans in
the fall to regasket both. This thing is a rocket even
at half throttle, could live with it as is forever, if needed.

I did rebuild carb and it did nothing. I don't think it
is a fuel issue unless electric pump just can't keep up.
I moved that pump to right in front of gas tank and
rewired using larger guage wire and relay that comes
off batt.

Djweaz
04-08-2017, 08:21 PM
So I got it running really good yesterday. Even actually let tire marks. Had a ping at the top so I adjusted it more and had to start again lol so I took a break and when I came back to it. It would start and die when you let off the key. So I jumpered the ignition to the coil and it started right up so stupid me made an actual wire to go across from the solenoid to the coil as soon as I started putting the power cable on and the wire from the coil to the started melting. I quickly removed the battery cable.. a buddy of mine says it sounds like the ballast resistor has gone bad. Problem is I can't find it or don't know what I am looking for. At first I thought it was the junction box on the passenger side just above the blower motor, it doesn't look like one from pictures that I looked up and the other guess was the junction box behind the master cylinder where the coil wire goes to on the bottom plug and is joined with a wire that goes to the solenoid. I've changed the old brittle wires from wire I had from the last wiring harness I did, but it still does the same thing. Starts and dies. Can't find a picture in the manual of either of them

jopizz
04-08-2017, 09:12 PM
It's on the firewall to the right of the master cylinder.

John

Djweaz
04-08-2017, 10:26 PM
It's on the firewall to the right of the master cylinder.

John

Excellent that's what I thought it was. I'll go buy it in the am thanks

YellowRose
04-08-2017, 10:48 PM
Rob, this is what my ballast resistor on my '59 looks like, and where it is located at on the firewall right next to the MC...

Djweaz
04-09-2017, 04:03 AM
I'm going to have to read about them. I always thought they were a type of Horn relay. Hopefully this is what is causing to to start and immediately die. My buddy said that's what it is. I have noticed it die several times since I've had it and thought it was a strange way to die. Was like instantly dying. And not trying to chug and hiccup but an instant die. When I put the carb on and started it died quite a few times. As I would start it I would start getting out to set the carb up, by the time I stood up or got to the side of the carb it would die. I thought that it was that it was still trying to fill the float bowls. But when it did it yesterday I immediately thought of ignition.

Does anybody know what the other part is? Looks to be some sort of relay it's on the passenger side of the firewall. Has one wire that splits in two and is screwed on to either side. And below it has a hot wire from the solenoid

scumdog
04-09-2017, 08:12 AM
I had a bad ballast resistor that had me pulling my hair out.

Turned out the porcelain 'rod' inside the coil was broken.

And when the coil got hot it expanded in length and bowed which then made contact with the metal mounting bracket that wraps around the resistor and shorted the circuit

But until then behaved as normal, i.e. the motor would start, run for a minute or two then die.

A 'normal' bad resistor will allow the motor to fire while the ignition key is twisted to engage the starter - but die when key is released.

jopizz
04-09-2017, 11:22 AM
Does anybody know what the other part is? Looks to be some sort of relay it's on the passenger side of the firewall. Has one wire that splits in two and is screwed on to either side. And below it has a hot wire from the solenoid

That's the power window relay.

John

simplyconnected
04-09-2017, 04:21 PM
Whenever you see porcelain, like on our dash lights dimmer and the ballast resistor, know that extreme heat is involved. Plastics cannot handle as much heat so expensive porcelain is used.

Most OEM voltage regulators give up because the wire-wound resistors behind the relays break from either excessive heat or too many heat/cool cycles.

I have seen ignition coils act the same way as Tom described. Cool and retracted, they run but hot and expanded, they quit.

I had an early 1983 Ford Escort that went through five distributor 'electronic modules.' Some of them simply quit while others ran until the engine warmed, then they turned extremely erratic. When the engine cooled, it was back to normal. - Dave I had a bad ballast resistor that had me pulling my hair out.

Turned out the porcelain 'rod' inside the coil was broken.

And when the coil got hot it expanded in length and bowed which then made contact with the metal mounting bracket that wraps around the resistor and shorted the circuit

But until then behaved as normal, i.e. the motor would start, run for a minute or two then die...

Djweaz
04-09-2017, 07:28 PM
It's sure crazy. The more I think about it I'm finding it goes back to when I got the car. But nothing that would let fix with a turning of the key and start it. A few months after I got it, I had a mechanic with me trouble shooting and that's when it happened he jumped a wire over and it started and stayed running. The guy I got it from had replaced the ignition switch, so he must have had it happening to him. The mechanic I had it at his shop called me over when he fixed it and the running issue. When I picked it up he wanted to show me about how Ford advertised you could sit a coffee cup on the intake and the coffee would stay smooth and not shake. It did work, so I paid him and I left. Going down the road if I gave it too much gas it had bad spark knock. So I called him when I got home. That smooth running engine doesn't matter if you get spark knock driving it. He came over and we adjusted the timing little by little and got it running good. It still wasn't top but I could drive it anywhere.

When I took it apart the other day and set timing the way Dave told me to do. It was "nuts on" as in I had it timed perfectly. It helped me double check it and my mark was dead center on TDC. I changed the plugs because they were fouled. Putting them on I noticed. I believe the 2 & 8 wires were crossed as I looked I saw others off as well. Don't you just love it when you pay someone to fix things and they screw up? Never looked at the plugs because I assumed they were correct so fixing that all I had to do was set the air/fuel mixture. I had already set the timing to 6 degrees BTDC. And as I said while I was setting it I left a couple of burn marks on my drive and in my garage. But it still needed more adjusting. As the very top of RPM I had a little pinging. So Inadjusted and adjust too much. So I set them back to factory and was going to readjust them, get it to where I had it before and I was going to tweek the timing a couple extra degrees. Didn't make it that far because it start and stopped. I went to AutoZone to get a new one. The guy said he didn't remember that last time someone ordered one. I told him it was my first one. They weren't in stock I'll have it tomorrow and keeping my fingers crossed that it works. So I can get back to putting the car to get together so it's ready for the music video and photo shoots that are lined up.

Here is the old ballast resistor. I'd say it has seen its better days in the 58 years it was in the car.

YellowRose
04-09-2017, 08:03 PM
Rob, looking at your ballast resistor I can see that it looks nothing like mine. I assume that mine is the OEM ballast resistor, but I cannot be sure. They do come in various shapes when you look at some of the images offered for sale by the various Tbird parts houses...

jopizz
04-09-2017, 08:33 PM
Ray,

Yours is a replacement. Rob's is an original Fomoco part.

John

YellowRose
04-09-2017, 08:45 PM
Hi John, thanks for telling me that! I have always wondered about that. Looking at mine and then looking at other ballast resistors that some of the Tbirds parts houses sell, mine is different from some of those. Like the ones that Mac's, and Tbird hqs sell, as I recall.

simplyconnected
04-09-2017, 09:28 PM
Gentlemen, the resistor brand has no bearing (because Ford never made them). As long as the resistance is 1.3-1.4Ω it will work. Back in the day, all brands used a ballast resistor except six-volt systems.

Ok so, Rockauto.com offers two brands:
AIRTEX/WELLS - 6R1011
and
Standard Motor Products - RU4
They're both under six bucks and they fit all these cars:

CHRYSLER 1972-1984
DODGE 1969-1989
EDSEL 1958-1959
FORD 1958-1959
JEEP 1962-1973
LINCOLN 1958-1959
MERCURY 1958-1959
OLDSMOBILE 1962
PLYMOUTH 1970-1981


The only caution is if you buy a coil, don't match a resistor with a coil that has internal resistance. It's either one or the other. - Dave

Djweaz
04-09-2017, 10:00 PM
Ray you think you are confused? I sent a picture of my relay above the blower motor to a buddy of mine because it didnt look anything like the ones I saw online for sale. I saw it had the hot from the solenoid to it and I thought that the little ignition wire was going to it as well but it was all electrical taped up so I stripped it all down and followed it to the bottom of the Ballast Resistor that shared a connector with the one from the coil. I still don't know what the top plug is used for(Ive not looked really hard yet maybe it goes in the firewall to the dash and probably to the ignition.

jopizz
04-09-2017, 10:17 PM
Ray you think you are confused? I sent a picture of my relay above the blower motor to a buddy of mine because it didnt look anything like the ones I saw online for sale. I saw it had the hot from the solenoid to it and I thought that the little ignition wire was going to it as well but it was all electrical taped up so I stripped it all down and followed it to the bottom of the Ballast Resistor that shared a connector with the one from the coil. I still don't know what the top plug is used for(Ive not looked really hard yet maybe it goes in the firewall to the dash and probably to the ignition.

I told you it was the power window relay. I guess you didn't believe me.

John

Djweaz
04-10-2017, 01:02 AM
Im sorry John this was 2 days ago before I posted about it. I was talking to my buddy about it. I took it off and sent him a picture of it and he said he had never seen one like that before. But that does make a good point, power window relay. I had 2 windows stop working the other day. I'm sorry you thought I didn't believe you. I should have made it more clear in my post.


I told you it was the power window relay. I guess you didn't believe me.

John

Djweaz
04-10-2017, 01:59 AM
I've heard with the 430 MEL that they had a lot of fuel issues with the location in front of the engine. Others have told me that they did as you did and moved it from the stock location. They have done it from the 60's. I was going to change it and one of my buddies said change it all you want but the issue you have is weak spark. He said first thing was get rid of all that rubber fuel line laying on your intake. I believe he said you shouldn't have more than 6 inches of rubber fuel lines in sections. Mine looks stupid because my metal fuel line starts at the fuel filter and goes along the valve cover than a left turn across the back of the engine and a left turn again and another left turn into the carb. My edelbrock 1406 and its fuel inlet is on the back corner of the right hand side of the carb and it's going to stay that way until I find another way to do it. I might go across the front of the engine and another right straight into the inlet. As I just smacked myself as to why I didn't do that in the first place lol

Mine does almost exactly the same thing, except
mine will idle all day long. It's seems purely load
based, so I don't think it is a timing chain issue
(that and idle timing with light is real smooth, not
jumping around like a loose chain would).

I need to go all through the distr timing sometime
this summer. If it does turn out to be my chain is
that bad, I will wait and pull the engine/trans in
the fall to regasket both. This thing is a rocket even
at half throttle, could live with it as is forever, if needed.

I did rebuild carb and it did nothing. I don't think it
is a fuel issue unless electric pump just can't keep up.
I moved that pump to right in front of gas tank and
rewired using larger guage wire and relay that comes
off batt.

Djweaz
04-10-2017, 09:27 PM
Got my Ballast Resistor in today. Put it in and I was up and running just like that. Only had time for that as I was putting the rear bumper on today. Tomorrow is back to resetting the carb again tweaking the timing it's at 6 degrees BTDC as it sits. I was reading some place, might have been here on another thread or someplace else I read that you might have to tweak the timing some more to get it better. Then I will start on to trouble shooting the windows and determine if I have to replace switches, plugs, power window relay or 15/30 amp fuses. I know that 2 have no voltage. One(Driver window) worked when I started and it lost voltage. The passenger rear didn't have power when I started so I have multiple issues. Fun day tomorrow lol

jopizz
04-10-2017, 10:18 PM
I like to set my advance between 8 and 10 degrees. Any more and you will most likely get pinging and hard starting when it's hot. I also use a higher octane gas than regular.

John

Djweaz
04-11-2017, 02:30 AM
I will check that check out what I am set at on it. It is a new the other was shot. Basically I am going through the whole car. It sat holed up for years it's a garage/barn find. I've spent thousands in it in the year I have owned it but it is worth it at least to me.


I like to set my advance between 8 and 10 degrees. Any more and you will most likely get pinging and hard starting when it's hot. I also use a higher octane gas than regular.

John

OX1
04-11-2017, 06:54 AM
I've heard with the 430 MEL that they had a lot of fuel issues with the location in front of the engine. Others have told me that they did as you did and moved it from the stock location. They have done it from the 60's. I was going to change it and one of my buddies said change it all you want but the issue you have is weak spark. He said first thing was get rid of all that rubber fuel line laying on your intake. I believe he said you shouldn't have more than 6 inches of rubber fuel lines in sections. Mine looks stupid because my metal fuel line starts at the fuel filter and goes along the valve cover than a left turn across the back of the engine and a left turn again and another left turn into the carb. My edelbrock 1406 and its fuel inlet is on the back corner of the right hand side of the carb and it's going to stay that way until I find another way to do it. I might go across the front of the engine and another right straight into the inlet. As I just smacked myself as to why I didn't do that in the first place lol

Just don't think fuel is my issue unless as mentioned
that electric pump is really weak. I also rerouted line along
the same path as vac booster and over front of motor.
Mostly to hide it as I still have mech pump installed
with faux lines that run nowhere, for looks at the shows.
Like the 430, that front mounted upside down pump is a conversation piece.

Anyway, I have 30 odd years of messing with Carters/Eedelbrocks.
It is IMO, way too consistent to be vapor lock and it happens when it's
dead cold, the same as hot. It would either have to be the accel
pump is not working at all or the secondary fuel circuit
is clogged. Neither of those are the case.

The main problem I have with these carbs is from
ethanol fuel, sitting too long (even with the latest
additives that supposedly eliminate the problem).
The low RPM/idle circuit gets slightly gummed up or clogged,
and then it won't idle warmed up. Off idle and higher
it is fine. It's happened 3 times on my classic bronco in
the past couple years. Pull out metering rods and primary
air horns. Blow everything out and it's right as rain again.

I have swapped to elect ign and swapped coils. Coil
voltage seems fine, so I don't think I have a weak spark.
That said, if I go through timing and everything seems OK,
I am going to drop the extra wideband setup I have kicking
around, temporarily, and see what that tells me.

Djweaz
04-12-2017, 11:36 PM
Man you have gone through a lot trying to get it going properly. I had issues of mine as soon as I got it but could drive anyplace without much of an issue. I refused to work in it at all unless it was a major issue. The rod for my brakes that goes through the booster in to the M/C was a major issue 2 times. It won't break again I can assure you of that. Going into cruising system would have been my 3rd year of not making any shows. I had a 41 Mercury long door coupe with a 355 that would hit a lick because of the big mutha thumpr cam. Was a pretty good car with the exception of the previous owner heated the coils down so they rubbed even going straight I pulled it all out and replaced everything in the front end and then I got to check out the wiring it was stripped as bare as you could get. Had an 8 glass fuse "fuse box" that they used for race cars back in the day, nothing more that a piece of Leather with connectors for the fuses.

Some people don't like to show off their engines. Saying some shows are nothing but showing off their engines and all the chrome they have put on them. I think differently about it. I pull my hood up at every one. I have a numbers matching 59 430 and you don't see them everyday especially one that's so clean. And your are right people that see Squarebirds every one of them are looking for that 430 and they will tell you everything you should know about them. It's all in fun I let them tell me again. One guy came back every week to tell me the same thing haha


Just don't think fuel is my issue unless as mentioned
that electric pump is really weak. I also rerouted line along
the same path as vac booster and over front of motor.
Mostly to hide it as I still have mech pump installed
with faux lines that run nowhere, for looks at the shows.
Like the 430, that front mounted upside down pump is a conversation piece.

Anyway, I have 30 odd years of messing with Carters/Eedelbrocks.
It is IMO, way too consistent to be vapor lock and it happens when it's
dead cold, the same as hot. It would either have to be the accel
pump is not working at all or the secondary fuel circuit
is clogged. Neither of those are the case.

The main problem I have with these carbs is from
ethanol fuel, sitting too long (even with the latest
additives that supposedly eliminate the problem).
The low RPM/idle circuit gets slightly gummed up or clogged,
and then it won't idle warmed up. Off idle and higher
it is fine. It's happened 3 times on my classic bronco in
the past couple years. Pull out metering rods and primary
air horns. Blow everything out and it's right as rain again.

I have swapped to elect ign and swapped coils. Coil
voltage seems fine, so I don't think I have a weak spark.
That said, if I go through timing and everything seems OK,
I am going to drop the extra wideband setup I have kicking
around, temporarily, and see what that tells me.