View Full Version : Door Weatherstrip installation

03-27-2017, 06:54 PM
Starting to do my doors and trunk weatherstripping after the paint. I have a Dennis Carpenter door kit. I screwed in the back door side into the plate worked my way around taking it but when I got to the wing vent side it was much too long so I took off the tale and started from the front side and worked my way back to the rear. On the underside of the door I stopped because it is looking like it's going to be too long that way. Are you supposed to cut from the middle to get the proper side? You. Ant cut from the ends because they have designate positions to go. Am I doing something wrong? I don't feel that I am.


03-27-2017, 07:15 PM
Do they have a part number on them. It sounds to me like they sent you the wrong ones.


03-27-2017, 09:36 PM
I had bought 2 different sets of door weatherstrips, because the body shop ground one up, and both manufacturers fit without having to cut or splice the w/s. They should fit.
Are you sure you are installing them properly? The first time I tried it, I was not following the proper contour of the door and I to thought they were to long.

03-27-2017, 11:54 PM


This is what I have and how i am doing it. Im glad I read the instructions about taping it first or I really would have a mess.

Dakota Boy
03-28-2017, 12:10 PM
Cut the gasket where it would be in the middle of the underside of the door. Then start attaching it at both ends. When the pieces meet up on the bottom side of the door, you can take away any excess there. Nobody will see it.

Be advised that some people (including myself) have had gaskets that are too hard or thick in the "dogleg" area... and then your door won't shut. I had to cut at least half of mine away in order to get the door to close. Unfortunately I had already glued it to the door! I won't make that mistake twice.... Clay or Play-doh would help to measure this gap before you get glue all over everything like I did.

03-28-2017, 03:39 PM
There are 3 distinct door weather strip brands because I bought two of those the hard way. American made means nothing to these when it relates to the quality. The first set I bought were American made and cost $66.00. These didn't have the steel reinforcement at the rear jam.

The Dennis Carpenter US made are very good, but too thick at the upper dog leg as all versions of this seal might be. You must trial and error cut back the thickness to get your door to close. Also, these seals are longer than the door jam perimeter, as you found out, and I bisected mine just before the metal reinforced wide piece at the top of the rear jam. If that's to prevent your install from being too short or long, you could have fooled me.

In 1995 I installed new weather stripping on the doors, roof, and A-pillars of my 1980 Corvette. It was easy and I thought the SquareBird would be a piece of cake. My Corvette's driver's window opening was a 1/2 inch longer than the passenger side because the car was largely handmade and the roof was installed crooked. That made me have to place a spacer under the A-pillar weather strip to compensate so the door glass would reach the C-pillar.

Bottom line is the weather strip installation takes patience and a lot of adhesive remover.


03-28-2017, 10:31 PM
I never fooled with it today. I worked on putting the trunks weatherstripping on and the rubber strip near the vents for under the hood as well as the new hood stops all went well. The only thing I had to do to the trunk weatherstripping was cut about a foot off.

When I took the old door weather stripping off it, it took 2 little screws but putting the new one it needed really long screws instead of the originals. I never thought about it hindering the door from closing properly.

Tomorrows list includes trying to put those little rubber things that look like what they put a rose in after its cut to keep it in water. It wont let me screw it in or push it in I even tried pushing it on with a set of pliers.