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Cwcb08
10-29-2016, 09:32 PM
starting this thread to document my build/repair progress:

the day we brought it home

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/605EA450-1CDA-4A58-92C1-7F6B6B3EDFAD_zpso6ta1xyg.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/FAB70724-EE6C-411E-B428-A68B0F690835_zpspavt8d8q.jpg

our goal is to have a weekend car that we could jump in any time and go for a drive, first hurdle is get it up to ontario minimum safety standards so we can get in on the road, then we will work on making her a little prettier

Cwcb08
10-29-2016, 09:32 PM
started off chasing electrical issues:

fixed the 4 ways
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/68A60DFE-BE5A-4328-AF7D-85AE99BD25B8_zps1zdouynp.jpg

changed the low fuel light relay so it wasn't permanently illuminated

replaced the interior lights relay

adjusted the previously replaced brake light relay so they work after fixing the 4ways

Cwcb08
10-29-2016, 09:34 PM
window motors need repair or replaced

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/4A0BC6A8-45DA-4DDD-8D16-E5AFA307F51C_zpstwv5xkgc.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/1790DA60-1921-49AE-8206-074F56092FB1_zpsfxxbx01l.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2659006C-86BC-4BF9-82A8-94F78577ED7B_zpsewajyoae.jpg

Cwcb08
10-29-2016, 09:39 PM
parts!


http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/C4F4C2BA-247C-4770-AFA0-1E7514C2E9D0_zpsdyfhnepq.jpg

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/FCBB093B-97E2-416B-A013-F6FC5E251F58_zpsxpbxchz6.jpg
light cover
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/DEC47338-AED4-4A5E-BB70-2A34EB97093F_zps2aoeklst.jpg
heater core
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/4B34200F-8D91-4DBD-9D2F-D903BD79093C_zpsh1wkahuz.jpg
fresh air inlet gasket
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/22E1A360-828D-4130-8451-8FD477D7D127_zpsomf9jzg7.jpg
battery hold down
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/308C8F3D-8D17-4EE4-8B05-90A1234FDAAF_zpsulfdtwse.jpg
washer fluid pump
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/F1DE528B-C824-4C92-A896-2863CD6CA350_zpsojofpbw0.jpg
washer fluid res

looked and found i have a remanufactured autolite 4100 carb
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/F07A148A-F3A9-4D71-8EF9-C62D5E7EBCBD_zpsssa0p776.jpg

scumdog
10-30-2016, 01:37 AM
Keep posting!
I have been/are doing improvements on my own '66 Town Landau, i.e in the throes of putting new intake gaskets and the original 4100 on it and then a new vacuum advance can on the distributor etc etc...

Cwcb08
11-06-2016, 03:40 PM
looks like the car got hit by a tornado

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/AC521355-1D49-4769-AE01-E78A9ACFAAFC_zpstsfun0ld.jpg

replacing vacuum lines as needed
will change out the cvr for a solid state one from dave and replace damage heater hoses before putting the dash back together

Cwcb08
11-18-2016, 04:25 PM
Got some parts for the bird

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/72B34D32-987A-4624-B543-09D350136566_zpsvktka87q.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/72B34D32-987A-4624-B543-09D350136566_zpsvktka87q.jpg.html)

and my pickup today

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/8491889C-EDF4-4AF7-B391-766E48EB92E9_zpslcfxb9lr.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/8491889C-EDF4-4AF7-B391-766E48EB92E9_zpslcfxb9lr.jpg.html)

Dan Leavens
11-19-2016, 09:31 AM
Cody looks like Christmas came early. Good stuff:D

Cwcb08
11-19-2016, 11:08 AM
Cody looks like Christmas came early. Good stuff:D

My birthday is the 22nd hopefully get more parts at Christmas lol


http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/0080DE37-0DC6-4D2D-B57D-EDE6E5F627D3_zpsfx8prsbs.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/0080DE37-0DC6-4D2D-B57D-EDE6E5F627D3_zpsfx8prsbs.jpg.html)

That cowl drain was definitely due to be replaced lol, both fronts were in that condition, the rears weren't nearly that bad but needed to be replaced anyway. The rears have a one time use clamp but the new boots fit tight so I won't bother getting a hose clamp to put on them

Yadkin
11-19-2016, 11:54 AM
looks like the car got hit by a tornado

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/AC521355-1D49-4769-AE01-E78A9ACFAAFC_zpstsfun0ld.jpg

replacing vacuum lines as needed
will change out the cvr for a solid state one from dave and replace damage heater hoses before putting the dash back together

What shape is the padded dash in? Mine was split so I trimmed off the warped plastic, cut out rotted foam, and replaced it with great stuff fire retardant foam. I bought a plastic cover and hated it! I ended up having a local upholsterer cover it in leatherette, French stitching at the exposed edge to make the compound curves, and it's one of my favorite parts of my resto. I took the dash out to him, and therefore the cost wasn't much more than a cheap cover.

Cwcb08
11-19-2016, 11:33 PM
What shape is the padded dash in? Mine was split so I trimmed off the warped plastic, cut out rotted foam, and replaced it with great stuff fire retardant foam. I bought a plastic cover and hated it! I ended up having a local upholsterer cover it in leatherette, French stitching at the exposed edge to make the compound curves, and it's one of my favorite parts of my resto. I took the dash out to him, and therefore the cost wasn't much more than a cheap cover.

It has one crack in it but we can live with it compared to the door cards it's in great shape

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/B6D39E07-601A-415D-AE9A-47BFDDC3C886_zpsapxon0zm.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/B6D39E07-601A-415D-AE9A-47BFDDC3C886_zpsapxon0zm.jpg.html)






We swapped the rear drain tubes last night, they weren't as bad as the fronts but were definitely due to be replaced as well

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/115B9247-B403-41DC-8B7D-F1A6EAEAA85D_zpsmjkmhxye.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/115B9247-B403-41DC-8B7D-F1A6EAEAA85D_zpsmjkmhxye.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/D3CD7536-B501-47C3-A7D1-EA7B0212AAAC_zpsydg8c623.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/D3CD7536-B501-47C3-A7D1-EA7B0212AAAC_zpsydg8c623.jpg.html)


Tonight I replaced the defroster hoses

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/E4443E3B-3170-4547-A8C0-484FD09BA333_zpsadjd05fc.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/E4443E3B-3170-4547-A8C0-484FD09BA333_zpsadjd05fc.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/B6AEC9DB-02AC-4F5C-BD43-C40BFF5B6D8F_zpsykeww6pr.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/B6AEC9DB-02AC-4F5C-BD43-C40BFF5B6D8F_zpsykeww6pr.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/E0AB3F78-216B-49B8-BA3A-D8B9249E541E_zpswuou4fj4.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/E0AB3F78-216B-49B8-BA3A-D8B9249E541E_zpswuou4fj4.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/D5849CC9-F62C-48E7-97C2-507D43281D23_zpss5rlhnxo.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/D5849CC9-F62C-48E7-97C2-507D43281D23_zpss5rlhnxo.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/04F0F160-42A7-4C7D-8AE5-23B94823D54B_zpsf0rlpqtd.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/04F0F160-42A7-4C7D-8AE5-23B94823D54B_zpsf0rlpqtd.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/F9D99550-72FA-4E2C-A8E5-DEBBEC4DAB0F_zpsbcqv3hkj.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/F9D99550-72FA-4E2C-A8E5-DEBBEC4DAB0F_zpsbcqv3hkj.jpg.html)

The new ones we got from pat Wilson's aren't identical to the oem hoses but they fit snugly without clamps so I'm happy and they were plenty long enough for the job, I probably could have trimmed them but I didn't ( I did vacuum the mess behind there tho lol )





Sometimes I like seeing old ways to do things like the backside of the main dash vents, a simple captive pin in two tracks to change the air direction

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/D054FFEB-7F58-48A3-911D-0A7605B7406A_zps6sybcmmi.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/D054FFEB-7F58-48A3-911D-0A7605B7406A_zps6sybcmmi.jpg.html)

Dan Leavens
11-20-2016, 10:00 AM
Cody coming along nicely, one step at a time. How are things down by Sarnia this time of the year?

Cwcb08
11-20-2016, 10:12 AM
Cody coming along nicely, one step at a time. How are things down by Sarnia this time of the year?


slow and steady thats right. ( and when funds become available )

we had our first snow that stayed on the ground when i woke up today, its still there its about 1c currently, two days ago it was 20.3c and we broke a record lol

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/59FB9A29-C590-46A7-8888-740603D2D09D_zpsh8pqnlby.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/59FB9A29-C590-46A7-8888-740603D2D09D_zpsh8pqnlby.jpg.html)

i was just surfing kijiji last night and called a guy about some window motors turns out i could almost throw a stone at his house from mine, we are going down at 11 to see what he has and look at his 66 convertible. apparently he has owned about 6 tbirds and parted out about 6 more. I'm thinking he will be about the same price as buying parts out of the states if the call last night was any indication ( i asked prices on motors and steering wheel and his answer was well multiply the price online by about 1.5 to cover shipping exchange ect so we will see ). he was also trying to tell me window motors have and will continue to be hard to get because they had a high failure rate so no-one is building them currently, any truth to that?

scumdog
11-20-2016, 01:06 PM
slow and steady thats right. ( and when funds become available )

we had our first snow that stayed on the ground when i woke up today, its still there its about 1c currently, two days ago it was 20.3c and we broke a record lol

I'm thinking he will be about the same price as buying parts out of the states if the call last night was any indication ( i asked prices on motors and steering wheel and his answer was well multiply the price online by about 1.5 to cover shipping exchange ect so we will see ). he was also trying to tell me window motors have and will continue to be hard to get because they had a high failure rate so no-one is building them currently, any truth to that?

I can't speak for the present time but about 9 or so years back I had no difficulty finding a firm in the US that advertised rebuilding window motors, I sent mine away and it came back rebuilt, I can't remember the company or cost.
The rubber coating on it had been cut to separate the halves of the housing so I sealed the seam with hot glue to keep the moisture out. (Just thought I'd throw that in!)

Cwcb08
11-20-2016, 02:03 PM
I can't speak for the present time but about 9 or so years back I had no difficulty finding a firm in the US that advertised rebuilding window motors, I sent mine away and it came back rebuilt, I can't remember the company or cost.
The rubber coating on it had been cut to separate the halves of the housing so I sealed the seam with hot glue to keep the moisture out. (Just thought I'd throw that in!)

He said today that two people were going to repop them one guy same old the other better, I guess the same old guy got them done and distributed first so the other guy fell off the map. And when they ran out of stock and the first guy went back to build more the Chinese factory he used was gone and had to start over, the second batch was prone to failure so they pulled them and that created a shortage everywhere.





Can anyone ID this axle is is supposed to be out of a 78 bird and be a posi but I can't decode the tag

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/9A7ABD33-CF78-4B80-B16C-4B1F39D8E545_zpstc18sf92.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/9A7ABD33-CF78-4B80-B16C-4B1F39D8E545_zpstc18sf92.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/08B4BA13-5E8B-4DA1-B1AD-CD8C6DB4EB4B_zpsdsgkfimt.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/08B4BA13-5E8B-4DA1-B1AD-CD8C6DB4EB4B_zpsdsgkfimt.jpg.html)

I know it's backwards but the lady who sent me the pic thinks it says

"800A
7C8
50-9
E8-8F"


I want to put a posi in my bird, looks like I have a 3.00 28spline

simplyconnected
11-20-2016, 02:20 PM
Window motors go bad from NON-use. I've never seen one with worn down brushes, even after fifty years of service. Or better said, fifty years of mostly sitting there doing nothing.

Think of it, they go up a number of turns then they go down that same number. Heater motors get a better workout and I've never seen one of those wear out either. The last heater motor I worked on was simply frozen. Then I got it going without buying any parts and now it works just fine. The last window motor I worked on was simply gummed up with greasy junk that loaded the commutator and brush holders. After a good cleaning all the parts in diesel fuel it ran great.

Any obsolete part growing older will also be more rare and more costly to replace with OEM parts. On the other hand, there are 'production' motors with two wires that can be substituted at a low cost. To retrofit one of these motors requires two additional relays, one for 'up' and the other for 'down' because Ford controlled opposite-wound field windings in OEM motors for direction. Modern motors use permanent magnets to eliminate electric fields so now we simply reverse armature current. - Dave

Cwcb08
11-20-2016, 04:50 PM
Anyone have any idea what this wire is, looks like a ground maybe?
Started under the Centre console cubby and terminated in the pass footwell. I couldn't identify anywhere it might have gone or came from and it doesn't look factory..

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/399020DF-7A45-4164-AB8C-55ABD030D878_zpsfe2qyd0m.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/399020DF-7A45-4164-AB8C-55ABD030D878_zpsfe2qyd0m.jpg.html)




Hooked both window motors up directly to my battery booster and they both function up and down the passenger side is much stronger ( I'll post some quick clips when they upload ) I'm sure I tried that before but I'm glad I did it again.
http://rs1233.pbsrc.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/E8A28C07-DF90-4A41-8DFC-A87A8DB95B69_zps7mlqegwh.mp4?w=160&h=160&fit=clip (http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/E8A28C07-DF90-4A41-8DFC-A87A8DB95B69_zps7mlqegwh.mp4)


Next issue is the switches we smelled electrical burning or at least getting hot so I'll have to try and fix or repair that

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/CA7CB081-1D1E-4521-9E5A-026419FFA855_zpsw15rrqk3.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/CA7CB081-1D1E-4521-9E5A-026419FFA855_zpsw15rrqk3.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/6D3926A7-DEFC-4943-B845-F5A3A01D9C10_zps8fmxk5j4.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/6D3926A7-DEFC-4943-B845-F5A3A01D9C10_zps8fmxk5j4.jpg.html)

Cwcb08
11-20-2016, 04:58 PM
Window motors go bad from NON-use. I've never seen one with worn down brushes, even after fifty years of service. Or better said, fifty years of mostly sitting there doing nothing.

Think of it, they go up a number of turns then they go down that same number. Heater motors get a better workout and I've never seen one of those wear out either. The last heater motor I worked on was simply frozen. Then I got it going without buying any parts and now it works just fine. The last window motor I worked on was simply gummed up with greasy junk that loaded the commutator and brush holders. After a good cleaning all the parts in diesel fuel it ran great.

Any obsolete part growing older will also be more rare and more costly to replace with OEM parts. On the other hand, there are 'production' motors with two wires that can be substituted at a low cost. To retrofit one of these motors requires two additional relays, one for 'up' and the other for 'down' because Ford controlled opposite-wound field windings in OEM motors for direction. Modern motors use permanent magnets to eliminate electric fields so now we simply reverse armature current. - Dave

Do you have an link and example of one of these motors for future reference Dave?

YellowRose
11-20-2016, 05:35 PM
Cody, have you taken a look at the Technical Resource Library (TRL)? There is information in it regarding repairing these motors, though it applies to Squarebirds, as I recall. But it should be a help to you regarding the motors in your Flairbird. Go to the TRL, hit the Ctrl and the F key, type in window motors and it should take you right to that section. The TRL link is always part of my and jopizz's signature element.

Cwcb08
11-20-2016, 05:56 PM
Cody, have you taken a look at the Technical Resource Library (TRL)? There is information in it regarding repairing these motors, though it applies to Squarebirds, as I recall. But it should be a help to you regarding the motors in your Flairbird. Go to the TRL, hit the Ctrl and the F key, type in window motors and it should take you right to that section. The TRL link is always part of my and jopizz's signature element.

The motors work, although one is a little weak, I'm on to diagnosing the switches, the vent switches and motors work perfectly

simplyconnected
11-20-2016, 09:03 PM
Console switches are famous for collecting junk inside. Our members carefully disassemble the switches, clean them and put them back. It might also be wise to swap the driver's switch with one not so frequently used. - Dave

Yadkin
11-21-2016, 10:56 AM
Anyone have any idea what this wire is, looks like a ground maybe?
Started under the Centre console cubby and terminated in the pass footwell. I couldn't identify anywhere it might have gone or came from and it doesn't look factory.

I'm guessing that's a ground that someone cobbed up to serve the FM converter. The console is screwed to the chassis so it's not a good direct chassis ground. Get rid of it.

Love the horn button. ;)

Cwcb08
11-21-2016, 11:47 AM
I'm guessing that's a ground that someone cobbed up to serve the FM converter. The console is screwed to the chassis so it's not a good direct chassis ground. Get rid of it.

Love the horn button. ;)

i was thinking thats where it might have come from but i have removed 3 wires from that area to the fuse box already. i wired the fm converter to an unused switched 2 wire lead in the console with a factory style connector. this green wire went almost to the ashtray for the back seat and has a odd curved spade connector at one end


the horn button is funny really and my wife doesn't like it ha. here in ontario i need to have a labeled button within drivers reach to get it safetied, the factory buttons are shorted at the wheel ( and started smoking the first time i tried it lol). so i found where the horn power came in and out of the wheel cut them added a relay and tapped the hot for the low current side of the relay/'horn' button. i used insulated connectors under the dash so when we get a new steering wheel and horn buttons i can switch it back to factory easily. i also had to replace one of the snail horns as it squeaks then stops making noise, i used a fiamm freeway blaster i got at princess auto cheap

Yadkin
11-21-2016, 01:13 PM
i was thinking thats where it might have come from but i have removed 3 wires from that area to the fuse box already. i wired the fm converter to an unused switched 2 wire lead in the console with a factory style connector. this green wire went almost to the ashtray for the back seat and has a odd curved spade connector at one end


the horn button is funny really and my wife doesn't like it ha. here in ontario i need to have a labeled button within drivers reach to get it safetied, the factory buttons are shorted at the wheel ( and started smoking the first time i tried it lol). so i found where the horn power came in and out of the wheel cut them added a relay and tapped the hot for the low current side of the relay/'horn' button. i used insulated connectors under the dash so when we get a new steering wheel and horn buttons i can switch it back to factory easily. i also had to replace one of the snail horns as it squeaks then stops making noise, i used a fiamm freeway blaster i got at princess auto cheap

I recommend that you get an electrical diagram book for your car. Not that expensive and will save a lot of time. My car was built with few options so you may have more in the harness than I do. The only factory wires that I have through to the back seat are the courtesy lights, the trunk light, the fuel level sensor, and of course the exterior lighting.

The horn is switched on the ground side and has a factory relay mounted under the hood. Maybe some joker bypassed the relay and that would cause the horn switches or circular contact to smoke.

The two long buttons on the steering wheel each have switches wired through the center of the plastic wheel to a circular metal base plate. The plate makes contact with the turn signal harness assembly through a spring loaded copper "button". If you remove the wheel you see the plate and button and can test the switches with an ohm meter. I like to use a small amount of white grease on this circular contact area for smooth operation.

Yadkin
11-21-2016, 01:25 PM
Another big hazard that you should be aware of is the dash mounted ammeter. The '64 (and I assume earlier models) came with a shunt type ammeter that took most of the alternator load though heavy gauge wire mounted directly to ther rear of the instrument. It's rated at about 40 amps. Modern alternators put out at least 100 amps, so you can see where a problem can easily occur.

I initially solved this problem in my resto-mod by installing a modern power panel under the hood then back-feeding the factory panel with a 40 amp fuse. However I then proceeded to further protect from instrument panel fires by installing relays for the headlamps and all my added on accessories, only to find that the ammeter then had not enough amps to measure. Last week I solved the problem completely by removing or abandoning the big ammeter wires and converting to a volt meter.

Later models, yours included, may have a remote shunt under the hood somewhere. Either way it's something that you need to address if you have a high output alternator.

YellowRose
11-21-2016, 01:56 PM
Cody, if you have not looked at the Technical Resource Library (TRL), you should. Bring it up, and push the Ctrl button and the F (for Find) button, and type in Wiring Diagrams. It will take you right to every wiring diagram we have for these Tbirds of ours. There are 12 sets of wiring diagrams for the 1966 Tbird alone, plus a link to the webpage that covers the 1965-1968 Sequential Turn Signal system.

Cwcb08
11-21-2016, 02:18 PM
I recommend that you get an electrical diagram book for your car. Not that expensive and will save a lot of time. My car was built with few options so you may have more in the harness than I do. The only factory wires that I have through to the back seat are the courtesy lights, the trunk light, the fuel level sensor, and of course the exterior lighting.

i have a shop manual

The horn is switched on the ground side and has a factory relay mounted under the hood. Maybe some joker bypassed the relay and that would cause the horn switches or circular contact to smoke.

The two long buttons on the steering wheel each have switches wired through the center of the plastic wheel to a circular metal base plate. The plate makes contact with the turn signal harness assembly through a spring loaded copper "button". If you remove the wheel you see the plate and button and can test the switches with an ohm meter. I like to use a small amount of white grease on this circular contact area for smooth operation.

one of the long buttons is missing a spring and that will be one of the components we replace when we do the steering wheel, part of the reason I made it easily reversible

Another big hazard that you should be aware of is the dash mounted ammeter. The '64 (and I assume earlier models) came with a shunt type ammeter that took most of the alternator load though heavy gauge wire mounted directly to ther rear of the instrument. It's rated at about 40 amps. Modern alternators put out at least 100 amps, so you can see where a problem can easily occur.

I initially solved this problem in my resto-mod by installing a modern power panel under the hood then back-feeding the factory panel with a 40 amp fuse. However I then proceeded to further protect from instrument panel fires by installing relays for the headlamps and all my added on accessories, only to find that the ammeter then had not enough amps to measure. Last week I solved the problem completely by removing or abandoning the big ammeter wires and converting to a volt meter.

Later models, yours included, may have a remote shunt under the hood somewhere. Either way it's something that you need to address if you have a high output alternator.

I saw your thread about making your ammeter a voltmeter it looks good 👍🏻

Pretty sure we have a stock alternator but if we upgrade I'll keep it in mind thanks


Here is the horn setup

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/12B53659-DAB3-407B-8409-BB7836D586AA_zpsm15cgrdk.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/12B53659-DAB3-407B-8409-BB7836D586AA_zpsm15cgrdk.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/C4B53EE6-6131-4977-8813-4F32E110518D_zps4s81ecaz.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/C4B53EE6-6131-4977-8813-4F32E110518D_zps4s81ecaz.jpg.html)



And this is where I hooked up the fm transmitter

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/91BB1DE0-9AFF-4E24-93BD-E7132F45C864_zpsalru57mh.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/91BB1DE0-9AFF-4E24-93BD-E7132F45C864_zpsalru57mh.jpg.html)




I dissambled the window switches cleaned and lightly sanded the contacts after a quick look at the technical links and they wor again! One more issue solved

Yadkin
11-21-2016, 02:45 PM
I disassembled the window switches cleaned and lightly sanded the contacts after a quick look at the technical links and they work again! One more issue solved

Buy a can of electrical contact cleaner at your local hardware or big box home improvement store. It's in the electrical department.

The chrome in your last photo is plated, cast aluminum. Yours is in good shape. It will brighten up even more by washing with diet coke (contains phosphoric acid) and a blue scotch-brite pad. Then wash and rinse. Dents/ scratches you'll have to live with. Ditto with most of the interior chrome trim, either cast/ chrome plated or anodized aluminum.

An exception is the chrome that you took off to remove the side panels of the console - these are stainless steel. A far superior material, dents can be removed easily by someone well trained. That same person can sand out scratches, "sanding up" through progressive grits, then through at least two buffing wheel grits. It's not rocket science as I've done all the stainless on my own car to mirror finishes.

Most of the interior finish panels can be refurbished by cleaning and painting. The instruments are cast aluminum, textured and painted. The remainder of the dash structure is textured or flat steel painted. The side console panels and seat panels are vinyl coated steel. I've used a light coat of engine enamel on mine but that was before I discovered vinyl paint. I used a very light coat of vinyl paint on my kick panels and seat bottoms and those turned out very nice.

Cwcb08
11-26-2016, 11:30 PM
Was showing the car to a friend and he was looking underneath and saw this

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/8EF828B7-F21D-4E85-AA61-D1A20612D40B_zpszxfomvlb.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/8EF828B7-F21D-4E85-AA61-D1A20612D40B_zpszxfomvlb.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/827BFBD1-5FD1-4A94-B7B1-260645F858EA_zpsypq2z4hx.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/827BFBD1-5FD1-4A94-B7B1-260645F858EA_zpsypq2z4hx.jpg.html)

Going to replace both wheel cylinders

While I'm ordering I'll get an ac compressor belt, does anyone know the specs of the belt I require? I didn't see any part numbers or specs in the shop manual

simplyconnected
11-27-2016, 03:05 AM
This leaky rear brake kinda proves that the rear wheels don't do much stopping. This side is soaked in brake fluid. That means the other side would have pulled more and this side's shoes are well lubricated. Cody probably wouldn't notice it even farther down the road unless he was looking for a reason why the brake fluid level was going down.

Don't feel bad Cody, I had a Pontiac Tempest with a rear cylinder that had a hydraulic port that was never drilled. I only noticed because the shoe never wore down.

Your shoe looks like it's nearly new. Just because it's soaked doesn't mean you need to throw it out. Brake linings are made to take tremendous heat under normal stopping operation.

When you have the shoes off, put them in a vice (just to hold them) and go over the linings with a propane torch. As they heat, you will see the brake fluid oozing out. Wipe it off with a paper towel and keep going until it stops oozing. Your lining will turn gray in color and it will look dry, because it will be. Don't worry about fire because brake fluid is glycol-based, not petroleum. In fact, I keep ALL petroleum products far away from my brake system including brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is highly flammable and it swells rubber brake parts.

I normally use the rebuild kits for my cylinders. They are inexpensive and I have control over the bore condition. Older cylinders usually get a rubber ring embedded in the walls from the cups inside because that's the only part that touches the casting. I use old brake cleaner and (wet-or-dry) sand paper to smooth the castings inside. A brake hone is not necessary. NEVER use petroleum products or water near DOT-3.

If you have an abundance of money or no time, you can always buy everything new but the result is about the same. - Dave

Cwcb08
11-27-2016, 08:57 AM
This leaky rear brake kinda proves that the rear wheels don't do much stopping. This side is soaked in brake fluid. That means the other side would have pulled more and this side's shoes are well lubricated. Cody probably wouldn't notice it even farther down the road unless he was looking for a reason why the brake fluid level was going down.

Don't feel bad Cody, I had a Pontiac Tempest with a rear cylinder that had a hydraulic port that was never drilled. I only noticed because the shoe never wore down.

Your shoe looks like it's nearly new. Just because it's soaked doesn't mean you need to throw it out. Brake linings are made to take tremendous heat under normal stopping operation.

When you have the shoes off, put them in a vice (just to hold them) and go over the linings with a propane torch. As they heat, you will see the brake fluid oozing out. Wipe it off with a paper towel and keep going until it stops oozing. Your lining will turn gray in color and it will look dry, because it will be. Don't worry about fire because brake fluid is glycol-based, not petroleum. In fact, I keep ALL petroleum products far away from my brake system including brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is highly flammable and it swells rubber brake parts.

I normally use the rebuild kits for my cylinders. They are inexpensive and I have control over the bore condition. Older cylinders usually get a rubber ring embedded in the walls from the cups inside because that's the only part that touches the casting. I use old brake cleaner and (wet-or-dry) sand paper to smooth the castings inside. A brake hone is not necessary. NEVER use petroleum products or water near DOT-3.

If you have an abundance of money or no time, you can always buy everything new but the result is about the same. - Dave


when we came in from the garage my plan was just going to to just rebuild them. But for the price of a new fully assembled one on rockauto its not much cheaper buying kits and then the time doing them myself! ( not to mention the boss doesnt like the idea of me playing with the brakes, she didn't seem to mind me overhauling the brake systems on my racing motorcycles, maybe its just because I'm the only one on it when I'm doing 150mph at the track lol. last time i let a professional change my brake lines at the track the first lap i almost got killed. he over filled the reservoir and with the brake drag it heated the fluid and locked my front wheel up at the end of the straightaway, scary hearing all the bikes coming behind you and knowing they are doing 150mph, but they dont realize your stopped and cant move to get to safety, should have seen the guys leg who hit the exhaust on my bike when he went by few more inches to the left we both would have been in the hospital.)


Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Cylinder

RAYBESTOS WC370192 {#2017509, EW9150, WC17509} Professional Grade Info
Rear Left
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

1-CAD$6.27

RAYBESTOS WC370193 {#2017510, WC17510} Professional Grade Info
Rear Right
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

1-CAD$6.27


Subtotal CAD$12.54
Discount -CAD$0.62
Shipping from United States (You should receive by Thursday, December 8)

Total CAD$24.07


vs.


Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Cylinder Repair Kit

RAYBESTOS WK13 {#3513} Professional Grade Info
Rear
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

2-CAD$3.24
Subtotal CAD$6.48
Shipping from United States (You should receive by Thursday, December 8)

Total CAD$17.28

Cwcb08
11-27-2016, 10:20 AM
So I measured for the ac belt, I get 56" - 58"1/2 depending where the tensioner is, back to searching for a belt that will fit

jopizz
11-27-2016, 11:14 AM
The Ford parts book shows 60" without the smog pump. Rock Auto shows a number of belts around the same length so that sounds correct as long as you have the stock compressor and idler pulley.

John

Cwcb08
11-27-2016, 12:23 PM
The Ford parts book shows 60" without the smog pump. Rock Auto shows a number of belts around the same length so that sounds correct as long as you have the stock compressor and idler pulley.

John

great thanks for the confirmation John

I dont think i have the smog pump,

i have 4 pulleys total
one at the motor
one at the compressor
one idler
one tensioner

ordered one of these: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=962443&cc=1332997&jsn=42

Cwcb08
11-29-2016, 02:03 PM
i received my new cvr from dave today, and installed it as soon as my daughter went for her nap, still no fuel or temp guage readings :confused: ( even after grounding the temp sender lead to the battery, must be wiring :( )


http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/08B8667B-D015-41F5-998D-E298E3BA68B3_zpsq1z3ywti.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/08B8667B-D015-41F5-998D-E298E3BA68B3_zpsq1z3ywti.jpg.html)

Dash all buttoned back up

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/243C9C22-D143-4797-B060-1ECB7630B085_zpsz7hol61a.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/243C9C22-D143-4797-B060-1ECB7630B085_zpsz7hol61a.jpg.html)

simplyconnected
11-29-2016, 09:21 PM
Cody, you probably have a blown fuse or the key isn't on. Check for 12-volts on the 'IGN' side of the CVR.

When you find voltage, then check the output side.

I test every CVR that I build and yes, I do have pictures of yours. I mount two Fluke meters, one reads the input voltage and the other reads output voltage. I do this with a battery charger running to get 'charging voltage' then I shut the charger off to read 'at rest' voltage. Your CVR outputs a steady, regulated six volts under all conditions, even with a load. (Now I gotta find your pictures because you will readily recognize the white top on your CVR.) - Dave

Cwcb08
11-29-2016, 11:27 PM
Ill check my fuses in the morning. If one was blown would the oil pressure still work?

Cwcb08
11-30-2016, 02:05 AM
I test every CVR that I build and yes, I do have pictures of yours. I mount two Fluke meters, one reads the input voltage and the other reads output voltage. I do this with a battery charger running to get 'charging voltage' then I shut the charger off to read 'at rest' voltage. Your CVR outputs a steady, regulated six volts under all conditions, even with a load. (Now I gotta find your pictures because you will readily recognize the white top on your CVR.) - Dave

Dave i have no doubt that you test your work, you seem methodical like that, curious if you tested it BEFORE you took it apart to build my new one? ( I'm just curious of what condition it was in before )

simplyconnected
11-30-2016, 02:55 AM
...curious if you tested it BEFORE you took it apart...Why would I do that? No, it's a mechanical contact that will never be used again so I gutted it immediately. Besides, it was an aftermarket CVR.

The wiring diagram shows a 'fuse assembly' in your engine bay, not far from the starter relay. The wire number is 37 and the color is Black-Yellow. This wire should feed your fuse box, so there may be more than one fuse in the circuit. I don't know if a 'fuse assembly' is really a fusible link so get your meter going. - Dave

Cwcb08
11-30-2016, 12:02 PM
Why would I do that? No, it's a mechanical contact that will never be used again so I gutted it immediately. Besides, it was an aftermarket CVR.
fun ? lol. i had no idea it was aftermarket i guess someone already had issues with it, when i pulled the gauges it was just floating around back there before i removed it
The wiring diagram shows a 'fuse assembly' in your engine bay, not far from the starter relay. The wire number is 37 and the color is Black-Yellow. This wire should feed your fuse box, so there may be more than one fuse in the circuit. I don't know if a 'fuse assembly' is really a fusible link so get your meter going. - Dave

i have the diagrams out in front of me, if i follow #30 from the CVR up to the main disconnect at the top middle of the page i dont see #30 coming out the other side of the disconnect, what # wire do you think "30" is on the left side of the disconnect.

on the right:
30 - cvr
37 - light switch
655 - ammeter
297 - ignition
654 - ammeter

on the left:
37 - fuse assy
655 - ammeter
297 - ignition
654 - ammeter


I'm leaning towards #37 but all the lights work so that should mean the fusable link it good, right? ill head out to the garage in a bit and poke around a little

Cwcb08
11-30-2016, 12:20 PM
does anyone have the " studiosonic " system in their car?

the local guy i met recently has an ad up that says he has the full system for 50$ wondering if its worth buying and installing, even if its just as a conversation piece

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/mississauga-peel-region/1964-to-1966-thunderbird-radios:/1126320066?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

"1) AM radios (2 wire) - $50 to $110 - Picture #1
2) AM Radios (4 wire - with rear or door speakers) - looks same as Picture #1 - $100 to $120
3) AM-FM Radio - needs repair (don't know what) $80
4) AM-8 Track - AM OK, not 8 track $80
5) Tuners that make an AM radio into an AM-FM (NO not an AM-FM stereo) - hooks in to antenna lead to feed either AM or FM to your existing car radio. $45 ea.
6) Also have complete factory installed "Studiosonic" unit (wiring front to back, control unit from console, and reverberator unit from trunk of a '66 Thunderbird - $50
All have been cleaned/rebuilt/tested by radio technician who did all Ford radio warrantee work for local dealer in 1960's"

jopizz
11-30-2016, 12:25 PM
Wire "30" and wire "297" are joined together. Wire "297" goes to the ignition switch. That's where wire "30" gets it's power.

John

Cwcb08
11-30-2016, 12:36 PM
Wire "30" and wire "297" are joined together. Wire "297" goes to the ignition switch. That's where wire "30" gets it's power.

John

usually it has a big black dot on the diag when that happens, but if thats the case, then i need to re check for 6v at the temp sending unit and the fuel sending unit.

since its tied to the key, should just turning it forward give power to all the gauges?

since the cvr was replaced once before i wonder if they connected the wires backwards, will the gauges still work hooked up opposite ? i hooked them up the same way i removed them when i re assembled the dash, i really don't want to have to pull it apart again :(

jopizz
11-30-2016, 01:14 PM
The CVR has a male and female connector so it's impossible to hook it up wrong. Wire 297 goes to the Accessory terminal of the switch so it will put out power on ACC or ON position.

John

Cwcb08
11-30-2016, 01:31 PM
The CVR has a male and female connector so it's impossible to hook it up wrong. Wire 297 goes to the Accessory terminal of the switch so it will put out power on ACC or ON position.

John

Sorry I meant the gauges being backwards not the cvr

jopizz
11-30-2016, 02:24 PM
It don't think it matters which way the gauges are hooked up. I would make sure you have power to the CVR first.

John

Cwcb08
11-30-2016, 02:47 PM
It don't think it matters which way the gauges are hooked up. I would make sure you have power to the CVR first.

John

havent checked yet ( might be 2moro now ) but the oil temp gauge works so that means the cvr has power right?

jopizz
11-30-2016, 02:58 PM
Yes, if your oil gauge is working then your CVR is putting out voltage. If you put a test light on the wires at the temp and fuel sender it should pulse showing that voltage is going through the gauges. At least it does with the mechanical CVR.

John

simplyconnected
11-30-2016, 10:56 PM
The CVR has a male and female connector so it's impossible to hook it up wrong...John is right and I've been here before. When I build my CVRs I install a fat diode on the power leg just in case someone connects the BATTERY backwards. Don't laugh, I know one guy with a '55 whose battery was backward for years. He only realized when he installed a new battery.

Mechanical CVRs pulse (hence the reason '66 'bird has a choke on the CVR). Mine output a solid and steady (regulated) six volts. This prevents the possibility of burning a gauge out because the mechanical contacts stuck shut, sending constant 12-volts to six volt gauges.

havent checked yet ( might be 2moro now ) but the oil temp gauge works so that means the cvr has power right? All gauges powered by the CVR are connected in parallel so they operate independently.

Get that volt meter going, Cody. It will tell you what's really happening. Gauges are not polarity sensitive meaning, you can connect the power wire to either post. They don't have a 'motor' inside but they do have a bi-metal strip with ni-chrome wire wrapped around it to create variable heat from variable current produced by the sending unit. The needle is connected to the bi-metal strip. - Dave

Cwcb08
12-01-2016, 10:45 AM
No reading on my digital multimeter from the temp sender lead grounded to the battery or from the fuel sender lead to the good ground in the trunk. Only place I got a reading was the low fuel light lead. Didn't have the car running but key was foreword. All fuses are good in the panel.

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/5041E535-A03C-4AA5-BF1A-E5156F269922_zps3nn8wo7j.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/5041E535-A03C-4AA5-BF1A-E5156F269922_zps3nn8wo7j.jpg.html)

jopizz
12-01-2016, 11:09 AM
I would start at the main connector that goes through the firewall. Disconnect it and make sure all the contacts look good and nothing is burnt. If everything is good there then it's most likely your fuel and temp gauges since you say that your oil gauge works.

John

Cwcb08
12-01-2016, 11:13 AM
I would start at the main connector that goes through the firewall. Disconnect it and make sure all the contacts look good and nothing is burnt. If everything is good there then it's most likely your fuel and temp gauges since you say that your oil gauge works.

John

The temp guage did "work" ( when grounded see here http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=104216&postcount=1 ) not sure what changed as it stopped "working" before i pulled the gauges out
I've never seen the fuel guage move.

might have to pull the main plug

Can you get to the back of the gauges without pulling the cluster out? When I had the face off I noticed two screws down there

Cwcb08
12-02-2016, 01:09 PM
ok so i went out to the garage when i put kiddo down for a nap.

removed all three gauges

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/A3083C75-CE12-4E5D-BB05-910B18196450_zps4n4cnpcz.jpg

turned the ignition on
6v at the oil guage, 0 fuel, 0 temp

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/05D37BD7-F5AE-4BCD-9E0E-672C3F21ABDF_zps99conrgp.jpg

so now i need to decide how I'm going to fix this. easy or hard way.

hard: pull the stupid dash out again and find where the wires are busted. - really don't like this idea even tho its probably the right thing to do.
easy: make a daisy chain with male/ female connectors to take the good 6v and split it between the 3 gauges and abandon the other two wires in place ( tape off the ends so they cant touch anything and cause problems)




tested the gauges while i was there

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/B05878AE-18AE-491D-8C7E-F6890A05F124_zpss19dfqbr.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/7E3AAB50-F8F9-46D1-BFFD-06FDF4755008_zpswteu26bk.jpg


also made a little test light with a bulb and some leads i had left over from a relay installs

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/BA7C82E3-7AF1-416D-9CD8-BDCA917833E7_zpsm7ckys7a.jpg

Yadkin
12-02-2016, 03:49 PM
Nice that you can reach the terminals from the front- I was not able to do that.

If you look at the wiring diagram all three of the "hot" wires from the CVR are spliced together in the harness. So "chaining" them together like you suggested isn't a bad idea at all.

Cwcb08
12-02-2016, 04:01 PM
Nice that you can reach the terminals from the front- I was not able to do that.

i would be able to pull them further but i put coloured zip ties on them when disassembling so i could keep them straight easier

If you look at the wiring diagram all three of the "hot" wires from the CVR are spliced together in the harness. So "chaining" them together like you suggested isn't a bad idea at all.

right, pretty sure thats what I'm going to do, just won't be factory is all

simplyconnected
12-02-2016, 08:44 PM
Good for you, Cody! You finally busted your meter out. (My Fluke measured 5.98 but I'm sure my leads had some resistance.) I also love the test light you made. It may look very dim on six volts but that's ok. It's a 'visual' for you to actually see how much voltage there is (or isn't).

As a caution... Make sure you disconnect your battery until you are done connecting your new wire harness. Too many loose ends that are hard to keep track of can short to ground. I use spade terminals that are insulated, both male and female. Had I known, I would have included some with the bullet terminals I sent.

You're doing great! Keep up the good work. - Dave

Cwcb08
12-03-2016, 01:28 AM
Good for you, Cody! You finally busted your meter out. pretty easy once i found some time to do it!(My Fluke measured 5.98 but I'm sure my leads had some resistance.) I also love the test light you made. It may look very dim on six volts but that's ok. It's a 'visual' for you to actually see how much voltage there is (or isn't).

As a caution... Make sure you disconnect your battery until you are done connecting your new wire harness. Too many loose ends that are hard to keep track of can short to ground. I use spade terminals that are insulated, both male and female. Had I known, I would have included some with the bullet terminals I sent. fortunatly i have a handful of m/f insulated terminals i bought when i did my little horn button relocate so i will be using them when i build the harness, possibly 2moro but you know how days off go when the "boss" has plans

You're doing great! Keep up the good work. - Dave

as always i appreciate the words of wisdom guys

Cwcb08
12-03-2016, 11:24 PM
What's wrong with these two photos...

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/42AB7ADC-3B90-453F-87D9-A118E6E11A30_zps8x5zeklg.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/42AB7ADC-3B90-453F-87D9-A118E6E11A30_zps8x5zeklg.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/CC33E782-DAF5-490E-A11B-E802E5E8420E_zpsq0dishqs.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/CC33E782-DAF5-490E-A11B-E802E5E8420E_zpsq0dishqs.jpg.html)

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The wires are both hot!

I'm 99.9% sure I didn't mess it up because I removed wires and marked them one at a time so I could reassemble it the same way


After fishing the wires Back and into the other gauges

Bingo!

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/B7DEB24D-A0CD-417A-A498-93973F502AD6_zpsos0wvtjm.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/B7DEB24D-A0CD-417A-A498-93973F502AD6_zpsos0wvtjm.jpg.html)

Strange that when the engine temp went up the fuel gauge went down?

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/434A0933-393C-45D4-852E-13C23BAF71EB_zpsx1pdepmq.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/434A0933-393C-45D4-852E-13C23BAF71EB_zpsx1pdepmq.jpg.html)

I'll start it again 2moro after it cools off and see what happens, if it does that again

simplyconnected
12-04-2016, 06:07 AM
There's nothing wrong with both pictures.
If the sending unit is not connected to one side of the gauge, the path is not complete to ground so both sides of your gauge will be hot. Now, you come along with a voltage tester that IS tied to ground so rightfully it will read the same voltage on both gauge terminals. There is no load, not even the meter because it is too sensitive.

Resistors (sending units ARE resistors) work the same way. If there is no load (no current flow), voltage will measure exactly the same on both sides of that resistor. That's why it's important to use a test light, because the bulb causes current to flow. The test bulb is a load which causes the resistor to oppose or resist current flow.

Your gauges have nothing to do with each other in their operation.

Lesson (in reverse): Let's say you have a circuit that keeps blowing fuses because a branch wire is shorted to the body somewhere, but we don't know where. If you attach the test light leads across the empty fuse holder, the light would shine until you remove the short. That's because the circuit is already shorted to ground. Simply start unplugging harnesses until the light goes out. Usually, wires and lamp holders that are exposed to the outside fail first because of corrosion or damage, so start there. Pay attention to the history... If the problem happened just after setting the dash, look for a pinched wire under a bolt or between sheet metal, and so on...

So in this exercise the bulb itself IS the resistor and it limits current from frying wires. If you put your meter across the bulb while it's shining you would see a voltage drop. With the ground removed, the bulb would go dark but voltage on both sides of the bulb would measure exactly the same, hot on both sides. If you have questions, fire away. - Dave

Cwcb08
12-04-2016, 07:45 AM
There's nothing wrong with both pictures.


Well maybe "wrong" wasn't the right word. Between the six wires 3 should be hot ( 6v from the cvr ) 1 hot at each guage. Well I had 2 hot from the cvr at the fuel guage.

I figured this out by grounding one side of my meter to the body and probing the connectors while I was trying to decide what wires came from the sending units and what I was going to abandon when I made my new harness from the good 6v at the oil guage.

Anyway one more issue mostly solved, once the new wheel cylinders come in this week and I install them I think I'll be ready to take it down and get a "pre safety" to find out what else ( hopefully nothing ) it needs to be put on the road!

stubbie
12-05-2016, 07:45 PM
"Strange that when the engine temp went up the fuel gauge went down"

No that's 8 miles to the gallon. HaHa:D

Cwcb08
12-09-2016, 12:12 PM
"Strange that when the engine temp went up the fuel gauge went down"

No that's 8 miles to the gallon. HaHa:D

Ha fair enough, but the only time I've drove it was the test drive lol


Parts!

Huge box for 1 belt

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/A21D97D7-B735-411A-ADBA-675E5ABF0A84_zpsac63bfrn.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/A21D97D7-B735-411A-ADBA-675E5ABF0A84_zpsac63bfrn.jpg.html)

Normal sized box

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/B74A3373-2D0A-4868-B0A1-CFE13387A3FE_zpsh0n0xhys.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/B74A3373-2D0A-4868-B0A1-CFE13387A3FE_zpsh0n0xhys.jpg.html)


Install

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2E2267E7-A65C-4936-B765-4391E09B626E_zpscw0zbxfc.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2E2267E7-A65C-4936-B765-4391E09B626E_zpscw0zbxfc.jpg.html)


I think I put it back together right lol

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/C7E4E4BE-44BB-4CF8-9C54-9EB32A835DF2_zpsq7lnmolz.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/C7E4E4BE-44BB-4CF8-9C54-9EB32A835DF2_zpsq7lnmolz.jpg.html)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/DBF98307-B0BC-48EC-AFAE-6C2752E07CBD_zpsaezw6ebi.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/DBF98307-B0BC-48EC-AFAE-6C2752E07CBD_zpsaezw6ebi.jpg.html)

Cwcb08
01-20-2017, 12:16 PM
today was a good day! finally took her down the street to the mechanic to have it safetied, she passed!

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/8C2A4E63-8F27-407F-A2B3-5D2A85AEC03D_zpsewswjmvu.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/8C2A4E63-8F27-407F-A2B3-5D2A85AEC03D_zpsewswjmvu.jpg.html)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/9342459A-CF44-4DC3-ACDA-24C19C92B6A5_zpsp71j139y.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/9342459A-CF44-4DC3-ACDA-24C19C92B6A5_zpsp71j139y.jpg.html)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/73DF0626-72D3-44B7-B0BC-699594B9F420_zpsrafh276d.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/73DF0626-72D3-44B7-B0BC-699594B9F420_zpsrafh276d.jpg.html)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/FE44111B-0E16-4CCA-8368-D8F62C08D0B0_zpsczuxfptc.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/FE44111B-0E16-4CCA-8368-D8F62C08D0B0_zpsczuxfptc.jpg.html)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/9756CC0B-1105-446A-8EA6-4D79857F4F17_zpsnhbcigac.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/9756CC0B-1105-446A-8EA6-4D79857F4F17_zpsnhbcigac.jpg.html)

She really doesn't like the cold lol (video below)

http://rs1233.pbsrc.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/22137802-DD22-4AEB-B731-CB69B07869BC_zpsv5h9ilnx.mp4?w=160&h=160&fit=clip (http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/22137802-DD22-4AEB-B731-CB69B07869BC_zpsv5h9ilnx.mp4)

Cwcb08
01-28-2017, 12:18 PM
Latest purchase will look nicer than the beat up pen

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/C8136915-9BDA-473F-8F6E-7FB9404430AD_zpsu1kftoxb.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/C8136915-9BDA-473F-8F6E-7FB9404430AD_zpsu1kftoxb.jpg.html)

Cwcb08
02-02-2017, 02:30 PM
Got the steering wheel installed, I had to adjust the horn button contacts for the button to work, it was initially stuck on

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/917CE819-C640-4573-B726-29F2FB2FFF68_zpsijrnjmip.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/B83A286C-6E29-4C7E-9F6E-BA35A26B47BF_zpsfgk8zrlr.mp4

And pulled the shift lever, beat up as I expected ( it would drop into reverse when I slid the column straight, came out pretty easy after I got annoyed and sprayed some wd-40 on the roll pin

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2B9CC6A8-27E4-4896-9654-5D3064027208_zpss4u2pgvr.jpg

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/E94DF063-B470-4120-8070-763D16849AF8_zpsvfwfzto0.jpg

Going to go get plates and a sticker for it today!

simplyconnected
02-02-2017, 03:05 PM
Hey, that looks great, Cody.

Cwcb08
02-02-2017, 03:12 PM
Hey, that looks great, Cody.

Thanks Dave, i *think the next thing we will be tackling is the carpet, that should make the whole car look a lot nicer.

Dan Leavens
02-03-2017, 11:13 AM
Cody that steering wheel looks really cool installed.:D

Yadkin
02-03-2017, 05:41 PM
Thanks Dave, i *think the next thing we will be tackling is the carpet, that should make the whole car look a lot nicer.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you don't find a nightmare of rust under it like I did mine. :o

Do a complete inspection of the metal when you get the old carpet and padding out. Also consider what to use for your new matting and sound deadener. I used Dynamat under a Boom Mat and it made a huge difference in both heat and sound.

Cwcb08
02-04-2017, 07:13 PM
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you don't find a nightmare of rust under it like I did mine. :o

Do a complete inspection of the metal when you get the old carpet and padding out. Also consider what to use for your new matting and sound deadener. I used Dynamat under a Boom Mat and it made a huge difference in both heat and sound.

im 90% confident there will be no shocks when i pull it up, the places i have removed already its been perfect. I'm not sure if i will bother to put down dynamat or something similar before i put the new carpet down.




in other good news its all legal now! plated and insured, just need some nice weather again.

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/ED6F4DD5-58B3-42A3-B9DC-50CF989B7A35_zpswqobv8cr.jpg


i also picked up a rim to mount a spare to.


http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/983C3935-62E0-48D3-A112-AD4D8F5995AD_zpsior7yj0y.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/983C3935-62E0-48D3-A112-AD4D8F5995AD_zpsior7yj0y.jpg.html)

FARONZ 66 Q CODE
02-09-2017, 08:03 PM
Sorry to trouble anybody but, could somebody tell us the steering part number and source so we can also look at getting that steering wheel.? Looks cool , also the other parts for it ...Couldn't find it in the Summit catalog...Thanks ! Great pic ! Congrats!

Faron here in Cherry Valley , Ca !

Thanks for all the insight ! Keep it coming especially all the the newbies like me ! LOL

YellowRose
02-09-2017, 09:59 PM
Faron, considering that in previous pix he posted, I see there are Grant Products boxes showing in the pic. If you look at their website, you will probably find the one he bought.

http://www.grantproducts.com/products/browse/steering-wheels/automotive/

Look at Part #987, #967, and #967-0. He should be able to tell you which it was.

Cwcb08
02-09-2017, 10:34 PM
Sorry to trouble anybody but, could somebody tell us the steering part number and source so we can also look at getting that steering wheel.? Looks cool , also the other parts for it ...Couldn't find it in the Summit catalog...Thanks ! Great pic ! Congrats!

Faron here in Cherry Valley , Ca !

Thanks for all the insight ! Keep it coming especially all the the newbies like me ! LOL

It's a grant #967 ( the 967-0 is a different shade of wood )

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-967

This is the puller

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-5891

The ford button

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-5685

And the install kit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-3294




Took the car to get gas today the wheel feels great in my hands the wood felt silky smooth.

I'm still annoyed with the install kit the horn sticks on so I will need to mess with the contacts again, and the roll pins to cancel the signals were clicking against the signal mechanism so I will look at that again as well ( that could be because I need to re center the mount so the wheel is straight driving)

FARONZ 66 Q CODE
02-10-2017, 05:45 PM
Thanks for the info !

Faron

Cwcb08
02-14-2017, 02:54 PM
have two low CFM compressors?
want to sandblast a few things?
build this!

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/CFC3BB00-19CE-49A3-A902-26FF00BC6B06_zpssgfkulzy.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/EDAFEF73-0679-4E18-A5D5-01AE897CCFEF_zpsnkn8oyqw.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/368DFD4E-09E3-473C-B081-263AE917A7F6_zpsseljyavm.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/520FCA4F-4DB1-435B-84E5-381D3FCB8EF4_zpslmwwseno.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/25E87B0F-2E1B-4E68-A737-34C7384C0B16_zpsh7egq8yz.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/9B793F43-C05E-4A0C-9688-BDD784578118_zpszmim9mhr.jpg

i ran out of sand, ill get some more 2moro, almost made it all the way around

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/F1E4489D-D4FD-45C4-A1FD-A2879990543C_zpsodwczeyi.jpg

i have about 45-50 into it

5$ in the 2-1 manifold
20$ two 3' leads
18$ sand blast gun ( clearance )
4.50$ 4' hose 1/2" dia
?$ misc fittings i had previously & a half bag of sand from when i tried to use the red compressor to sandblast last year

its not exactaly pretty but it will do the job for small projects and it didn't cost a lot to make

scumdog
02-14-2017, 05:31 PM
How long did it take to do that section of rim?

Cwcb08
02-14-2017, 09:11 PM
I dono 40 min? I did the inside and as far around as you see there. I'll finish the remainder and may take Dave's suggestion via PM to dip it after that as well

simplyconnected
02-14-2017, 10:32 PM
Yes, I suggest he use Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) outside, with proper eye and hand protection and a garden hose near by.

The whole wheel doesn't need to be submerged if you keep the steel 'wet' with a junk paint brush. Acid works better in warm temps but even in cold, it's fast. - Dave

Cwcb08
02-15-2017, 03:07 PM
Picked up a regulator and another filter (5$ea on clearance) when I went to get more sand today and a few fittings (6$)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/33144D16-D915-4823-A3C9-DB156B847B38_zpsghvp5a1a.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/33144D16-D915-4823-A3C9-DB156B847B38_zpsghvp5a1a.jpg.html)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/4B9456F3-1196-4FC7-834E-2C58B25731DB_zpsguybenrp.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/4B9456F3-1196-4FC7-834E-2C58B25731DB_zpsguybenrp.jpg.html)

And picked up some speaker wire to put the old radio ( from a previous car ) and new speakers my FIL gave us into the car. I think I'm going to hid the radio in the console/glove box ad use the cars stock antenna

Cwcb08
03-09-2017, 03:46 PM
havent worked on the bird in a little while but i had some time while kiddo had a nap yesterday. i pulled both front seats and removed the carpet.

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/0F274D00-CEB8-469D-8F7E-9898BEBD78EF_zpssmrdbq6y.jpg

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/416902CA-8F17-4482-B871-C29EDF6B1755_zpsywb7w5wc.jpg

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/E59B707A-B185-472C-9193-9FEB0990E152_zpseoxh98mk.jpg

i was happy to find only surface rust, i also thought i was done repairing/replacing vacuum lines:mad:

Now is the time to decide on a replacement carpet colour, I want to use the original Ivy green, or black, the boss wants tan/beige. What do you guys think?

We also haven't decided on what colour to redo the seats yet, or if we are going to keep the original rear covers & just replace the front foam&covers, or replace them all at once so they match, this is also why we haven't settled on a carpet colour.

Decisions, decisions $$$

Cwcb08
03-19-2017, 05:13 PM
Got some literature from my neibour her brother had a '64

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/1DF15528-7254-418E-9776-30A7082B63AF_zpsjzpw9zrb.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/1DF15528-7254-418E-9776-30A7082B63AF_zpsjzpw9zrb.jpg.html)

OUR5T8BIRD
03-20-2017, 09:52 AM
Got some literature from my neibour her brother had a '64

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/1DF15528-7254-418E-9776-30A7082B63AF_zpsjzpw9zrb.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/1DF15528-7254-418E-9776-30A7082B63AF_zpsjzpw9zrb.jpg.html)

Thunderbird Illustrated was a great quarterly magazine that I believe was sold by subscription only . Too bad it stopped after only two years . Have all of them as well and can be a good reference at times . Nice collectible, and , by the way, good luck with your restoration on the '66 .

YellowRose
03-20-2017, 02:41 PM
There is a set of Thunderbird Illustrated magazines that were donated to us some time ago. Thanks to Dave~simplyconnected, they are now a part of the Technical Resource Library! You can go to the TRL, hit the Ctrl and F button on your keyboard, type in Thunderbird Illustrated and it will take you right to the link. Then you can open or download the .pdf file and peruse through it and enjoy the articles there!

Cwcb08
03-20-2017, 10:20 PM
There is a set of Thunderbird Illustrated magazines that were donated to us some time ago. Thanks to Dave~simplyconnected, they are now a part of the Technical Resource Library! You can go to the TRL, hit the Ctrl and F button on your keyboard, type in Thunderbird Illustrated and it will take you right to the link. Then you can open or download the .pdf file and peruse through it and enjoy the articles there!

I'm in a the process of sending the two factory manuals you see there to Dave as .PDF for the TRL

YellowRose
03-20-2017, 10:37 PM
Thanks, Cody! We do have the electrical schematic for the 1964 Tbird in the Wiring Diagrams of the TRL along with all the other early Tbirds. But this booklet looks like it might contain a lot more information for the 1964, as we have for the 1966 Tbird. I cannot make out what the other booklet covers, but I am sure we can put it to use! Thanks again!

Cwcb08
04-12-2017, 12:19 AM
drove it to work today.
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/C83166AB-32D8-46AB-998A-102F57DDA4F6_zpsoqr3c758.jpghttp://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/A0233337-0DC3-49CC-996A-3A2BD73034BA_zpszqzzdma2.jpg

have to figure out why the flashers Indicator is always on faint and flashes with turn signals ( something is back feeding)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/DB1165F5-109C-4FAF-A6AC-BF43A066FB45_zps21jogqov.jpg

hi beam, i need to make sure the bulb for the hi's is installed properly so I have an indicator, it must have fallen out when reinstalling the cluster
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/15509817-24F7-4174-A034-A2E309EFF27A_zpslezry37e.jpg

low's really need adjusting
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/8A100D6A-81AA-40D6-B9ED-E032498EBD3E_zpsfjwqotz0.jpg

admiring it when i got home before putting it back into the garage
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/6DD2BD53-1F01-46BB-BF7F-C5E9185729C8_zpstiiy8rns.jpg

also need to address this transmission ( i think ) drip
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/9D66B441-D2D1-4472-ACE7-A211B2379541_zpsepcipgo7.jpg


i need to trace the vacuum lines to the heater valve, when i turn it on i dont get any warm air (i know the valve works i put a vacuum directly to it previously and got heat from the vents)


strangely the fuel gauge works when i first start the car, but after the temp gauge goes up the fuel gauge stops reading, not sire where to start on this one.



not sure how much love the bird will get in the next month, we get the keys to a new house on the 21st and have 5 weeks to renovate and move in, once we move she will get a nice epoxy floor to park on tho, rustoleum epoxysheild - grey with neon green ( also react to black light), glow in the dark & black colour flecks!

simplyconnected
04-12-2017, 01:00 AM
...have to figure out why the flashers Indicator is always on faint and flashes with turn signals ( something is back feeding)...

...hi beam, i need to make sure the bulb for the hi's is installed properly so I have an indicator, it must have fallen out when reinstalling the cluster

...strangely the fuel gauge works when i first start the car, but after the temp gauge goes up the fuel gauge stops reading, not sire where to start on this one...Cody, these are classic symptoms of a loose or bad body ground. Your dash bulb is on faintly because voltage is trying to return to ground but the only path it can find is through your lamp.

Start at the battery. Just like modern cars have, install a short #10 wire from negative to the body. If you have a rather heavy metal part, that would be ideal. We use the structure around the radiator (called a 'horse collar' or radiator support) but frame members work as well.

Use a separate #6 stranded wire for your engine ground. Ford used a short copper length that stopped at the water pump. I would rather you terminate your ground at the bell housing or somewhere close to the starter motor because that draws the most current. Leave 'extra' wire between the body and engine for vibration. Also, support the wire before it crosses over so that the connectors don't eventually fail from vibration.

Every bulb socket that is exposed to the weather should be closely inspected for rust and corrosion, like the license plate lamp holders and signal sockets. You want solid connections but no short circuits from water, mud, salt, etc.

Next, check plugs that are exposed. Disconnect them and look at the pins in both halves. - Dave

scumdog
04-12-2017, 04:28 AM
On my '66 the ground strap/cable runs from the negative battery post to part of the frame(?) (roughly under the front exhaust port) where the insulation has been stripped from the cable for an inch or so and a soldered tab wrapped around the bared cable and is secured to the frame by a bolt through the tab into the frame.
The cable then continue on and from memory bolts the the engine block.
It's not as big a cable as I would have used myself but I have had no starting issues.
(And I cleaned the area where the strap bolts to the frame and cleaned the bolt with the wire brush wheel on my bench grinder before reinserting the bolt through the tab)

scumdog
04-12-2017, 04:37 AM
drove it to work today.
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/C83166AB-32D8-46AB-998A-102F57DDA4F6_zpsoqr3c758.jpghttp://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/A0233337-0DC3-49CC-996A-3A2BD73034BA_zpszqzzdma2.jpg



!

It always amazes me how low these big birds sit compared to modern vehicles!

Cwcb08
04-12-2017, 09:22 AM
Cody, these are classic symptoms of a loose or bad body ground. Your dash bulb is on faintly because voltage is trying to return to ground but the only path it can find is through your lamp.

Start at the battery. Just like modern cars have, install a short #10 wire from negative to the body. If you have a rather heavy metal part, that would be ideal. We use the structure around the radiator (called a 'horse collar' or radiator support) but frame members work as well.

Use a separate #6 stranded wire for your engine ground. Ford used a short copper length that stopped at the water pump. I would rather you terminate your ground at the bell housing or somewhere close to the starter motor because that draws the most current. Leave 'extra' wire between the body and engine for vibration. Also, support the wire before it crosses over so that the connectors don't eventually fail from vibration.


i remember the stranded braided ground cable from the block to the chassi looking rough, i guess ill replace that as one of the first things

It always amazes me how low these big birds sit compared to modern vehicles!

i know eh, she's a boat but looks small next to the truck and suv

Yadkin
04-12-2017, 03:42 PM
also need to address this transmission ( i think ) drip
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/9D66B441-D2D1-4472-ACE7-A211B2379541_zpsepcipgo7.jpg

Type F fluid will find the smallest hole. I had three areas for leaks in my '64.

1. Main seal behind the torque converter. Obviously this is the most $$ to fix so you want to diagnose it correctly. It manifests itself by dripping through the bottom of the dust cover at the front of the bell housing. Requires taking the transmission out. I put a new seal in and it immediately started leaking again, so I rebuilt the transmission, finding that the first bushing was badly worn, almost to the point of wearing through and ruining the case.

2. Dip stick tube. Yours might be different, but in '64 the dip stick tube does a 90 degree and screws into the side of the pan as an inverted flare fitting. It didn't matter how much I tightened it it would still leak. So I took it apart, cleaned up the connection as best as I could, dried it, then put a thin smear of RTV copper on the joint before assembly.

3. Pan gasket. The factory bolt torque is 10-13 #-ft which is about twice what the flimsy steel pan flange can handle. Take the pan off and inspect it. If yours is like mine the flange is distorted. I have a large flat steel plate on my work bench so I put the pan on it flange down then used a short length of 1/4 hardwood dowel as a drift to make it flat. Before I reassembled I used a rubber gasket and glued it onto the flange with black RTV, then let it set for at least an hour on my flat plate with a jug of water on the pan to weigh it down. Then I installed the bolts in the gasket holes, used RTV again on the case side of the gasket, then torqued it in several stages, but only to 5 #-ft.

After all this my garage floor is dry. :)

jopizz
04-12-2017, 04:03 PM
Don't forget to check the shift selector o-rings. They are also known to leak.

John

OUR5T8BIRD
04-12-2017, 05:01 PM
Don't forget to check the shift selector o-rings. They are also known to leak.

John

One other possibility that I ran into a few years back is the power steering fluid where it goes up into the windshield wiper motor and back out. There was a leak at the fittings going in and out and then dripped onto the bell housing and down onto the floor making it look like a transmission leak .

Cwcb08
04-14-2017, 07:29 AM
Type F fluid will find the smallest hole. I had three areas for leaks in my '64.

1. Main seal behind the torque converter. Obviously this is the most $$ to fix so you want to diagnose it correctly. It manifests itself by dripping through the bottom of the dust cover at the front of the bell housing. Requires taking the transmission out. I put a new seal in and it immediately started leaking again, so I rebuilt the transmission, finding that the first bushing was badly worn, almost to the point of wearing through and ruining the case.

2. Dip stick tube. Yours might be different, but in '64 the dip stick tube does a 90 degree and screws into the side of the pan as an inverted flare fitting. It didn't matter how much I tightened it it would still leak. So I took it apart, cleaned up the connection as best as I could, dried it, then put a thin smear of RTV copper on the joint before assembly.

3. Pan gasket. The factory bolt torque is 10-13 #-ft which is about twice what the flimsy steel pan flange can handle. Take the pan off and inspect it. If yours is like mine the flange is distorted. I have a large flat steel plate on my work bench so I put the pan on it flange down then used a short length of 1/4 hardwood dowel as a drift to make it flat. Before I reassembled I used a rubber gasket and glued it onto the flange with black RTV, then let it set for at least an hour on my flat plate with a jug of water on the pan to weigh it down. Then I installed the bolts in the gasket holes, used RTV again on the case side of the gasket, then torqued it in several stages, but only to 5 #-ft.

After all this my garage floor is dry. :)

great things to check, mine doesn't have the dust cover so i should be able to shine a light up in there easily

Don't forget to check the shift selector o-rings. They are also known to leak.

John

ill check them to

One other possibility that I ran into a few years back is the power steering fluid where it goes up into the windshield wiper motor and back out. There was a leak at the fittings going in and out and then dripped onto the bell housing and down onto the floor making it look like a transmission leak .

check the top and bottom of the trans, got it lol


like i said, won't be able to really get into it for a little, one more week until we get the keys!

Epoxy floor flakes:
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/921FA41F-DEAE-4758-A01E-8F3203736891_zps2h1ignqn.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/921FA41F-DEAE-4758-A01E-8F3203736891_zps2h1ignqn.jpg.html)

Cwcb08
04-18-2017, 01:44 PM
We took the car to my wifes parents for easter dinner, needless to say i ended up eating leftovers, we almost made it, 1 block short.
They came and got jess and the kiddo and left me another vehicle to have better 4ways parked behind the bird since they aren't very bright.

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/43A21253-5E89-4203-AA63-29F35DCFDDFC_zpsjts4yhfc.jpg

i knew i needed to replace the tires soon

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/A7C6EA4F-AD38-41F5-A574-CB69A770EC0A_zpsntzfhfya.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/95660317-A8E3-4165-AC27-F1F447D47B75_zps9eqvctn8.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/011CA6B0-2D4A-4FCD-9FEB-55A5046C9E02_zpsqpptvb33.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/ED32A289-A429-417F-A7F4-FE93067F52ED_zpsswbzd4cr.jpg

i just hoped i could do it after we finished moving
oh well, we put the two new ones on the front and moved the fronts to the back

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/3E2CFD90-96FD-499E-810B-5FCBC24695F1_zps5hvreq3n.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/BC6B0B5F-2AD5-4A3E-BB05-A5962A94B46A_zpsvw76xdt1.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/56BD2586-CE1D-4527-9DBB-3B92D6D337F8_zpsdrr01wke.jpg

we just put what was on sale at canadian tire on in the comparable oem size 8.15x15 = 215/75r/15, the front had with 225/75/15 ( now the rears ) and the rears were 235/75r/15

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/D1F04337-B98B-409D-BCF5-205BF42C3711_zpsxmb7gz1x.png

and while i was down there this is the area the fluid is coming from

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/E5794AE4-C468-4536-8F48-B20B2359CD70_zpsto9ffojx.jpg

jopizz
04-18-2017, 02:21 PM
Going by the dry rot those tires should've been replaced about thirty years ago. I don't recommend that anyone drive any distance on tires that bad. You're lucky it wasn't a front tire that went. Someone could've been seriously hurt. Tires are not the part of the car that you should be putting off until later. That's my sermon for the day.

John

Cwcb08
04-18-2017, 03:18 PM
The date code put them at 05 or 08 I can't remember, the safety was done less than 100km ago ( tires are on the list of govt checks ). They were also something I wondered if I would need to replace before it would pass, I knew I wanted and needed to replace them. But not being a professional I figured the shop wouldn't pass it if they were that bad, it's their liscence on the line after all

scumdog
04-18-2017, 03:34 PM
Going by the dry rot those tires should've been replaced about thirty years ago. I don't recommend that anyone drive any distance on tires that bad. You're lucky it wasn't a front tire that went. Someone could've been seriously hurt. Tires are not the part of the car that you should be putting off until later. That's my sermon for the day.

John

Exactly!
Not worth the risk.

"If in doubt - throw it out"

jopizz
04-18-2017, 03:57 PM
The date code put them at 05 or 08 I can't remember, the safety was done less than 100km ago ( tires are on the list of govt checks ). They were also something I wondered if I would need to replace before it would pass, I knew I wanted and needed to replace them. But not being a professional I figured the shop wouldn't pass it if they were that bad, it's their liscence on the line after all

Any shop that would pass tires with that much dry rot shouldn't be in business. I'm not doubting what you're saying about the date codes but either those tires are much older or the car sat with flat tires for many years. Even so you don't need to be a mechanic to see that those tires are unsafe.

John

stubbie
04-18-2017, 07:52 PM
I had oil in the same area. Mine was coming from power steering box and spreading all over undercarriage of car as I was driving.

simplyconnected
04-18-2017, 08:00 PM
Going by the dry rot those tires should've been replaced about thirty years ago...

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/011CA6B0-2D4A-4FCD-9FEB-55A5046C9E02_zpsqpptvb33.jpg
It's hard to argue against this alligator tire. I'm sure that's why it lost air and went flat.
Of course, the deep cracks don't show until the rubber is folded back. - Dave

Cwcb08
04-19-2017, 12:05 AM
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2014-06/011CA6B0-2D4A-4FCD-9FEB-55A5046C9E02_zpsqpptvb33.jpg
It's hard to argue against this alligator tire. I'm sure that's why it lost air and went flat.
Of course, the deep cracks don't show until the rubber is folded back. - Dave

Exactaly, aside from the massive hole in photo 5 you don't see any of the big cracks from this photo^

Cwcb08
06-20-2017, 01:19 PM
been a while since i posted, not a lot of progress but some

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/DF5A5167-8D9F-439A-A7F8-E6139008CC61_zpspqar0fvg.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/7C09951A-35AA-47CE-B822-413505AF3F9B_zpsszyqabgm.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/D29D52DC-0AA9-46C6-9EAF-D7EF05BA5172_zps4dl6ngjw.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/F8ED198A-6493-4C33-8B17-0A10D8168B23_zpszdjumrkd.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/FF93A1EA-EBA6-4238-9B22-8119AB8F9AEC_zpswcgucgvc.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/EAD0050C-FEA3-41F8-9D23-127446246ACF_zpszulwhk6m.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/FA979722-EEB4-4F2C-B92B-AE7BF0789BEF_zpsdvgjbmh3.jpg

jopizz
06-20-2017, 03:59 PM
Are you changing the interior color? I doubt the original carpet color was black looking at the console and seats.

John

Cwcb08
06-20-2017, 05:23 PM
Are you changing the interior color? I doubt the original carpet color was black looking at the console and seats.

John

Original carpet was green, but we decided to do black in case we change the seat colours from green to black, black is easy to coordinate

simplyconnected
06-20-2017, 06:49 PM
Your new carpet sure does look nice, Cody.

jopizz
06-20-2017, 06:53 PM
Original carpet was green, but we decided to do black in case we change the seat colours from green to black, black is easy to coordinate

I agree. That color combination is not for everybody. I believe it's actually called Ivy Gold. I've had a couple of 66's with that color interior and it takes some getting used to.

John

Cwcb08
06-20-2017, 07:36 PM
I agree. That color combination is not for everybody. I believe it's actually called Ivy Gold. I've had a couple of 66's with that color interior and it takes some getting used to.

John

It is ivy gold yes, ever seen vinyl seats with (what looks like yarn) overtop the vinyl in the center, none of the seat covers we have looked at have that option

I like black and green so this combo works good for us haha

jopizz
06-20-2017, 07:53 PM
It is ivy gold yes, ever seen vinyl seats with (what looks like yarn) overtop the vinyl in the center, none of the seat covers we have looked at have that option

There was a vinyl/cloth option available but I don't think any of those seat cover combinations are being reproduced. They weren't that common that's for sure.

John

Yadkin
06-20-2017, 09:58 PM
...ever seen vinyl seats with (what looks like yarn) overtop the vinyl in the center, none of the seat covers we have looked at have that option...


My '64 had cloth and vinyl seats. Some sort of aluminum thread mixed into the weave to give it a sparkle. Here's a picture before my resto-mod, so they are badly faded. I do recall finding a vendor that had the material but I decided to go with leather instead.

Cwcb08
06-20-2017, 11:23 PM
That's different than what we have, I'll take some pictures of the seats and post them tonight or 2moro

DKheld
06-21-2017, 09:17 AM
I'm supposed to be mowing the grass :rolleyes: but it's raining here - gee thanks weather lady - you said it wouldn't rain today.

Anyway - glad it is raining - browsing the forum and saw your thread (I'm usually over on the Squarebirds forum) - very interesting - read it from page 1.

Car looks great -can't wait for the next step - thanks for all the pics - keep 'em coming.

Eric

Cwcb08
06-21-2017, 09:56 AM
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/DBD9D335-6201-4EBF-9866-10091A0CDCC8_zpsppernll7.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/DBD9D335-6201-4EBF-9866-10091A0CDCC8_zpsppernll7.jpg.html)

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/51B5B15E-2701-472D-BCB6-CAC610E3473E_zpsfa1yt4se.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/51B5B15E-2701-472D-BCB6-CAC610E3473E_zpsfa1yt4se.jpg.html)

Yadkin
06-21-2017, 10:32 AM
I see you have the fancy-pants reclining passenger seat. ;)

jopizz
06-21-2017, 10:39 AM
The seat pattern was changed in '66 which is why Yadkin's original '64 seats look different. There was probably a very low percentage of '66's that had them which is why they aren't being reproduced.

John

Cwcb08
06-21-2017, 12:51 PM
Shouldn't the back and front match tho?

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/7769A783-01B6-4AC9-8DDB-66ED39B749CA_zpsdxcjtqmg.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/7769A783-01B6-4AC9-8DDB-66ED39B749CA_zpsdxcjtqmg.jpg.html)

Not cutting holes for the lights yet, I don't know if we are replacing the door cards

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/AC5115C0-E9E4-442D-BCA3-0575E65CB24B_zpsiweriigz.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/AC5115C0-E9E4-442D-BCA3-0575E65CB24B_zpsiweriigz.jpg.html)

jopizz
06-21-2017, 08:16 PM
Shouldn't the back and front match tho?

It appears that someone did a switcheroo either in the front or back. The data plate code on the door will tell you which is correct. To me the rear seats look more original than the fronts. I don't think they had parchment seats with an ivy gold interior.

John

Cwcb08
06-21-2017, 09:04 PM
It appears that someone did a switcheroo either in the front or back. The data plate code on the door will tell you which is correct. To me the rear seats look more original than the fronts. I don't think they had parchment seats with an ivy gold interior.

John

I'm pretty sure the plate says 58 which is ivy gold, but I can't check from work.

That fabric is called "parchment"? I your right, I don't see parchment/ivy gold on the data plate decoder as an option

YellowRose
06-21-2017, 09:06 PM
Here is what Automotive Mile Posts has to say regarding the interiors that were OEM and available for the 1966 Flairbird... 58, Ivy Gold, is an appropriate Interior Trim code for a 1966 Flairbird.

http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird1966interiortrim.html

As you can see for All Vinyl Bolsters & Inserts, B8/K8 was Parchment (Light Beige) with Ivy Gold appointments.

For All Leather Bolsters & Inserts L8 was Parchment (Light Beige) with Ivy Gold.

jopizz
06-21-2017, 09:14 PM
The only cloth options were black, dark blue and parchment w/beige.

Trim code 58 is Ivy Gold all vinyl.

John

Cwcb08
06-21-2017, 09:28 PM
So the consensus is that someone swapped for B8/K8 Parchment (Light Beige) with Ivy Gold appointments front seats at some point in our cars life?

jopizz
06-21-2017, 09:41 PM
So the consensus is that someone swapped for B8/K8 Parchment (Light Beige) with Ivy Gold appointments front seats at some point in our cars life?

B8/K8 is all vinyl, not cloth. Parchment is the color (light beige). There is no Parchment (light beige) with Ivy Gold cloth seats. Is the vinyl that's on your cloth seats beige or Ivy Gold. I can't tell by the picture.

John

Cwcb08
06-21-2017, 09:48 PM
It looks like the same green vinyl as the back seats

jopizz
06-21-2017, 09:53 PM
According to what's in the Automotive Milepost that color combo doesn't exist in cloth. I'll check the Ford parts book and see what that says.

John

jopizz
06-21-2017, 10:09 PM
The Ford parts book shows the same thing. The only thing close to what you have is parchment cloth(beige) w/parchment vinyl (beige). If the vinyl is ivy gold then those seats are certainly an oddity.

John

Cwcb08
06-21-2017, 10:44 PM
I will take a closer picture of the vinyl under the cloth and post up in the morning, but I'm confident it's green not beige, certainly a mystery so far

Cwcb08
06-22-2017, 10:48 AM
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/5A697F6C-DD9B-4713-8672-5CB8ECF54AD0_zpsndi1yogo.jpg

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/45EEE446-820C-487B-8A66-279ABD7BDD64_zpsm0czdwzs.jpg

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/B365EDAF-B833-4F7C-B6FE-A320DEBF6407_zpsgpcwj9yo.jpg

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/B6D016C5-8E34-4276-B2E2-BFC59F523AD3_zpszrvpmnhz.jpg

jopizz
06-22-2017, 11:05 AM
That's definitely Ivy Gold vinyl. The odd thing is that the cloth material in your seats doesn't look anything like the material in the Automotive Mileposts picture. If you click on it and enlarge it you will see a completely different pattern than what you have. I suspect that your front seats may have been reupholstered for some reason. Your trim code of 58 is Ivy Gold all vinyl.

John

Joe Johnston
06-22-2017, 12:06 PM
Quite often original Ford upholstery and carpeting has a part number painted or inked on the backside of the material. Other soft parts may have a Ford ID tag stitched in some place out of sight. Have to remove and inspect - it may have a Ford marking somewhere out of sight.

Cwcb08
06-22-2017, 01:11 PM
Just came back from a tour around town ( hoping all the seals swell up and stop the tiny leaks ) and noticed the pad on the nose of the dash is beige, wondering if that's original now as well lol

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/58E10042-081E-4AC4-BECB-61B168E8DC23_zpsdjkrvv1u.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/58E10042-081E-4AC4-BECB-61B168E8DC23_zpsdjkrvv1u.jpg.html)

jopizz
06-22-2017, 01:39 PM
The flairbird dashes held up very well so there would be no reason to replace it. Most likely it's just sun faded.

John

DKheld
06-22-2017, 03:19 PM
Just came back from a tour around town ( hoping all the seals swell up and stop the tiny leaks )

In the British car world (my first cars - still drive and restore them) if you do not have any leaks it means only one thing........it's out of oil. :D



Glad to see your back on the road with new tires. My 10 year old radials went bad a few months back and developed huge knots in the tire. Take a look at this broken belt (not quite a bad as your tire problem though)
https://storage04.dropshots.com/photos5000/photos/260234/20150924/095824.jpg

One other thing......(hope you don't mind the friendly advice)

Go buy a fire extinguisher to carry in the car - you never know when or if you might need it but if you don't have one all you can do is watch it go up in smoke. I was lucky and carried one otherwise it would have been much worse.

https://storage04.dropshots.com/photos5000/photos/260234/20160330/b_184356.jpg


Eric

Cwcb08
06-22-2017, 06:45 PM
We are getting two more tires 2moro so we will be on 4 new ones

The extinguisher is a good idea, but on the other hand it is insured for 8500$ lol

Cwcb08
06-23-2017, 01:20 PM
Found some stuff emptying the rats nest under the back seat

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/50C01F68-D235-40AE-AA66-BDE4357D364F_zpsq7g7tux7.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/50C01F68-D235-40AE-AA66-BDE4357D364F_zpsq7g7tux7.jpg.html)

Yadkin
06-23-2017, 01:55 PM
Now you know the car was in Oregon and a previous owner liked to throw money around. :D

Cwcb08
06-24-2017, 06:29 PM
Washed and waxed the car in preparation for the Sarnia stree machines car show Sunday, then we took it to town to get bridge fries!

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/644540A4-8836-4393-9DCB-7807D66E26C0_zpsam20tkxb.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/644540A4-8836-4393-9DCB-7807D66E26C0_zpsam20tkxb.jpg.html)

Can you tell where we tested The jax wax haha

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/732430E8-F9FD-44DD-AC67-7BE34A956EF8_zpspt8iqamt.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/732430E8-F9FD-44DD-AC67-7BE34A956EF8_zpspt8iqamt.jpg.html)
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/808D8B7D-F51A-4971-9AB3-B585AF97808B_zps04fxtbzi.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/808D8B7D-F51A-4971-9AB3-B585AF97808B_zps04fxtbzi.jpg.html)

Sitting on four new shoes, we might buy two more white walls for the back, we found somewhere local that them since we bought the other two plain black for a few dollars cheaper!

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/30F177AB-BF41-460A-9E79-6AC7AE110A68_zps5drpkurk.jpg (http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/Cody_Bowen/media/2017/30F177AB-BF41-460A-9E79-6AC7AE110A68_zps5drpkurk.jpg.html)

We are much more confident going for a drive now that we have all new rubber :D

Cwcb08
06-25-2017, 05:37 PM
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/E948F777-6631-421E-90F5-49634649590F_zpsglirwtyu.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/9AE1994B-763D-470E-9BAA-0A3A101FD6C7_zps1wemljmw.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/76083E96-D3DD-4865-B246-E445E2D9988E_zpstjj33vav.jpg

this crazy looking bird was there to asking 26K
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/CE9E176A-7D3B-4AE0-929A-4AD50EE1B164_zpsyixttcvi.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/5467A1AE-59C5-477C-B36A-1C0ED630EC45_zpsvxjjala7.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/D90998F0-097A-4F11-B554-701E2CBA1D2E_zpsw4h02bi1.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/C6DB47DA-166C-4239-86B7-AB6B2EAE520F_zpsjvmjsijb.jpg
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/A6EF18F5-311F-4589-B810-121EFAAF7024_zpsc3tnye03.jpg

i relay like the way these gauges look retrofitted in there

http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/Cody_Bowen/2017/4BCCD81D-3964-4591-9A32-E15F76EF342F_zpspgvo4t3e.jpg

simplyconnected
06-25-2017, 05:44 PM
Outstanding, Cody.

Cwcb08
06-25-2017, 05:54 PM
Outstanding, Cody.

thanks Dave, there were several other birds there as well, mostly older, 50's. the show brought in more than 350 cars!

there was one other 66, a landau with 428, but no AC, partially restored the guy was asking 10k obo

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1274490951&requestSource=b

scumdog
06-26-2017, 12:17 AM
Love that custom 'bird, a bit 'out there' but cool!

Dan Leavens
06-26-2017, 08:28 AM
Cody she is certainly coming along nicely. It is good to see 350 cars on the grass as a turn out for this event:D

DKheld
06-26-2017, 11:54 AM
x2 on the "way out" Bird - a little too "way out" for me but - still nice. Do think they did a good job on the gauges. Say - they copied your steering wheel idea.

Your car is looking great too.
I do think the white walls look good on your car with the white top - JMHO

On the value - I always tell anyone that asks if my car is for sale - "Yes".
Next question is "How much".
So I tell them - "I think it's worth about 16 but I'll take 32". :D

Eric

Cwcb08
06-29-2017, 10:10 AM
i took the old girl into the shop yesterday to get the carb and timing adjusted ( she was hesitant when i started accelerating but ran great at speed ).

they pulled the mixture screws and it idled better, then vacuum lines it idled better still ( instead of starving and dyeing ). they said to check what was going on they would have to remove the top plate with would likely destroy the seal. they think the floats or needle are stuck open.

long story short I'm having them get a rebuild kit and do the carb so we know when it was done and its done and done right.

car sounded terrible on the way home after they played with it haha, ill be taking it back once they have the parts and their carb guy lined up again, glad the shop is only a mile away. downside i dont want to take it for any short cruises in the meantime





just noticing photo bucket being a pain, most of the photos all still work if you click the logo, but i will be switching free hosting sites

Cwcb08
06-30-2017, 10:41 AM
Good ole rock auto clearance

Not bad for 30$.

Sway bar end links
Manifold gasket
Trans pan gasket
Oil pan gasket
5 filters
Locking Gas cap

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152185725@N06/shares/Q7230z

scumdog
06-30-2017, 11:30 PM
Good ole rock auto clearance

Not bad for 30$.

Sway bar end links
Manifold gasket
Trans pan gasket
Oil pan gasket
5 filters
Locking Gas cap

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152185725@N06/shares/Q7230z


Yep, Rockauto prices are good, really good- it's the freight to here that's the killer, it can double or more the purchase price for us that are a long way from anywhere.

Cwcb08
06-30-2017, 11:34 PM
It was 50 Canadian to the door! Still a pretty decent price I thought

simplyconnected
07-01-2017, 03:07 AM
There is one item I cannot understand regarding price:
Fuel tanks are made by Spectra Premium in Boucherville, Québec, Canada. Then they are shipped to Rock Auto (in the USA) and the price is still cheaper through RA, than Canadians can get from sources at home. What's up with that?

I understand border crossings require extra security but these tanks don't need to cross the border. I wonder if Spectra has a Canadian distributor with more reasonable prices for domestic sales. - Dave

YellowRose
07-01-2017, 08:56 AM
I just emailed Spectra and asked them for that information regarding Canadian distributors, if any. I will let you know what they say. Unfortunately, they are closed over the weekend. Spectra markets a lot of different parts other than just gas tanks. Check out their Marketing information.

http://mktg-us.spectrapremium.com/

Cwcb08
07-01-2017, 10:18 AM
Things like that just #*$$ me off and make me buy from wherever I get the best price, free trade isn't always free

It's also Canada day today yellowrose they might be taking a long weekend

YellowRose
07-01-2017, 01:13 PM
Cody, Happy Canada day to you and all our Canadian Tbird owners! That explains why they are not open until Tuesday!

scumdog
07-01-2017, 07:04 PM
Things like that just #*$$ me off and make me buy from wherever I get the best price, free trade isn't always free

It's also Canada day today yellowrose they might be taking a long weekend

Happy Canada Day!

We've got the Canadian flag flying and as usual we are a day ahead of you guys so it was flying yesterday

simplyconnected
07-01-2017, 08:10 PM
Pardon me but I'm still used to calling it, "Dominion Day".

Happy Canada Day! - Dave

YellowRose
07-04-2017, 11:31 AM
Here is the response I just received from Spectra regarding Canadians ordering gas tanks and parts from them.

"Good day, Yes we have distributor in Canada. You can go in any Napa, CARQUEST, O’reilly, Advance, Canadian tire and many more. If you have any other question please call us on the tech line 1-888-910-8888. Thank you. Marc-André Fecteau."

So there ya go!

Cwcb08
08-03-2017, 07:36 PM
Got the car back from the shop today!

Carb is rebuilt with new dashpot and tuned ( good but still a little rich, the bowl is cracked according to the shop. One day it will need to be replaced. )
All New plugs
All New wires
New distributor cap and rotor
Replaced pass side exhaust manifold gasket
New air filter
Changed the oil while it was there

We put about 975$ into it this visit

Shop also mentioned to us we will need to replace the exhaust as it is strting to rust out and there are already holes in it past the H pipe

I'm thinking I also want to replace the timing chain as Dave mentioned to me last time he called, it seems to hesitate off the line but once up to speed it goes when you put your foot down

I think I need to check the wheel bearings as well not 100%sure thats what the noise is but they are cheap if I'm wrong

Drove it to work
https://www.flickr.com/gp/152185725@N06/1Ed7k3
https://www.flickr.com/gp/152185725@N06/mj3Km7

jopizz
08-03-2017, 08:20 PM
Carb is rebuilt with new dashpot and tuned ( good but still a little rich, the bowl is cracked according to the shop. One day it will need to be replaced. )

Why would you rebuild a carburetor with a cracked bowl? Gas is either going to run down the intake and foul the plugs or drip onto the intake and possibly cause a fire. Just asking.

John

Cwcb08
08-03-2017, 09:43 PM
Had I known from the start that was an issue I wouldn't have.

scumdog
08-03-2017, 09:46 PM
Got the car back from the shop today!

Carb is rebuilt with new dashpot and tuned ( good but still a little rich, the bowl is cracked according to the shop. One day it will need to be replaced. )


I'm thinking I also want to replace the timing chain as Dave mentioned to me last time he called, it seems to hesitate off the line but once up to speed it goes when you put your foot down



Are they sure it's a crack? I've seen what looks like a crask on a carb body that turned out to be a casting flaw.

And the hesitation MAY be just too lean a mixture and/or accelerator pump shot being week.

Cwcb08
08-04-2017, 12:31 AM
Are they sure it's a crack? I've seen what looks like a crask on a carb body that turned out to be a casting flaw.

And the hesitation MAY be just too lean a mixture and/or accelerator pump shot being week.

I didnt see it but that's what they told me, they thought the jets may have been reversed back to front ( based on other odd things they saw ) making it run rich.

Dam car died on the way home from work about a mile from home ( figures ) not sure if its the battery or alternator but I couldn't start it ( it wouldn't even try ) and all lights were very dim

simplyconnected
08-04-2017, 10:44 AM
Cody, pull your battery clamps off and clean the surfaces well. I use Vaseline on all the mating surfaces before re-installation, just to keep air and water out.

Also, check your ground connections and terminals on the engine and car body. If you have strong headlights while trying to crank, most likely your starter is faulty.

If your battery voltage goes way down while cranking, the battery is bad. - Dave

Cwcb08
08-04-2017, 10:50 AM
Cody, pull your battery clamps off and clean the surfaces well. I use Vaseline on all the mating surfaces before re-installation, just to keep air and water out.

Also, check your ground connections and terminals on the engine and car body. If you have strong headlights while trying to crank, most likely your starter is faulty.

If your battery voltage goes way down while cranking, the battery is bad. - Dave

I put it on my battery tender Jr overnight and it started first crank. I tested with my multimeter and had 11.75v while running, I'm thinking I should have 14ish while charging if the alternator is working correctly.

Also checked the powersteering res because it was making a moaning while turning, empty. Guess I know where all the red fluid was coming from now.

Ugh stupid car, I don't want to put a ton of money into it. Anyone want to buy it lol

Adjusted the headlights as well they were way off and terrible driving home

jopizz
08-04-2017, 01:01 PM
Ugh stupid car, I don't want to put a ton of money into it. Anyone want to buy it lol

As you are finding out owning a classic car is not for someone on a limited budget. Even if you do all the work yourself the costs can quickly exceed the value of the car. To me owning a classic car is like gambling. If you can't afford to lose money then don't do it.

John

Cwcb08
08-04-2017, 01:10 PM
As you are finding out owning a classic car is not for someone on a limited budget. Even if you do all the work yourself the costs can quickly exceed the value of the car. To me owning a classic car is like gambling. If you can't afford to lose money then don't do it.

John

A little bit of A and a whole lot of B, I can spend some money on it but I do not want to spend more than it will ever be worth ( mechanically or cosmetically ), its not something I intend to keep forever its a stepping stone

Cwcb08
08-04-2017, 04:36 PM
If it is the alternator a guy from work who restores cars as a side business suggested a single wire gm alternator does anyone have insight on this?

Or what 3 wire one from the rockauto website I should be looking at, they range from 31-81$

I will be doing trouble shooting on the weekend to figure out what it is for sure before doing anything

simplyconnected
08-04-2017, 05:05 PM
Single wire alternators were never used in production cars. People think, because there is only one wire, it must be easy enough where no knowledge of electricity is required.

The problem with that is, the one-wire won't charge until rpm's are well above idle speeds. That defeats the whole purpose of an alternator. You want it to charge whenever the engine is running.

So, what do production cars use? Three wires: One is a ground, another feeds the battery and the third wire comes from your GEN light to 'sense' the key is ON. When the key is off, the alt turns off so the internal voltage regulator won't drain your battery.

Personally, I think one-wire alternators belong on hot rods. They work, but not as you would expect. - Dave

Cwcb08
08-04-2017, 06:07 PM
Ok thats good to know Dave, Thank you

Cwcb08
08-07-2017, 12:31 AM
So I got a few min the the garage today before I had to go checkout and make a deal on a new boat ( a '18.5 1979 surf master trihull bow rider with a 140 mercruiser i/o, sold our little fishing boat yesterday ). Hooked up my multimeter between the battery and the chassis and pulled every fuse until the amp draw stopped, its the emergency warning 20A, next is find out where in the circuit is causing this particular problem.

OUR5T8BIRD
08-07-2017, 07:49 AM
So I got a few min the the garage today before I had to go checkout and make a deal on a new boat ( a '18.5 1979 surf master trihull bow rider with a 140 mercruiser i/o, sold our little fishing boat yesterday ). Hooked up my multimeter between the battery and the chassis and pulled every fuse until the amp draw stopped, its the emergency warning 20A, next is find out where in the circuit is causing this particular problem.

There are two relays in the trunk just to the right of your sequential signal light package . These are most likely gone bad . Also, the switch for these relays in the overhead console for the emergency flasher lights is worn out or in the ' on ' position and the light indicator is burnt out .

ps. I have these relays if interested. Previous Bird owner never picked up after I purchased them .

Cwcb08
08-07-2017, 09:01 AM
I have replaced those relays with 3 Bosch style relays in the early stages of this thread. So it shouldn't be that, not sure if its the flasher relays or brake relay that also buzz when I hit the brakes maybe need a diode in there somewhere or something..

The bulb works it flashes with the hazards. And the switch works to turn the hazards on and off.

Hopefully get to look at it today some more

Cwcb08
08-13-2017, 01:07 PM
So I tried to find an obvious leak in the power steering system but didn't have any luck with the car on the ground so I just topped up the pump res and will deal with it later.

Then I started the car and after it ran for a minute or two disconnected the battery, it instantly died, any suggestions on how to test the alternator/regulator?

I also found out what relay is causing the issue with my 4ways/brake/turn buzzing with the help of my daughter, she worked the brake pedal while i was in the trunk ( car was off just key in the acc position )

Its the stop light relay, with it disconnected the front 4 ways work, the brake and turns also both work, just the rear 4 ways are disabled, now I at least have somewhere to work from.

OUR5T8BIRD
08-13-2017, 08:17 PM
So I tried to find an obvious leak in the power steering system but didn't have any luck with the car on the ground so I just topped up the pump res and will deal with it later.

Then I started the car and after it ran for a minute or two disconnected the battery, it instantly died, any suggestions on how to test the alternator/regulator?

I also found out what relay is causing the issue with my 4ways/brake/turn buzzing with the help of my daughter, she worked the brake pedal while i was in the trunk ( car was off just key in the acc position )

Its the stop light relay, with it connected the front 4 ways work, the brake and turns also both work, just the rear 4 ways are disabled, now I at least have somewhere to work from.


On our '66 , if I activate the four way emergency lights, front and rear flash on and off like they should . If I step on the brake, the emergency lights stop flashing . When I release the brake, they start right up again . Hope this helps . BTW, ours is a convertible so do not have the two extra relays in the trunk .

Dan Leavens
08-13-2017, 09:02 PM
Cody always good to have a good helper:)

Cwcb08
08-14-2017, 12:32 AM
I got looking at the diagrams a little closer and it looks like the relay in question is normally closed where I thought it was normally ope. So I wired it the other way and then the rear 4 ways work ( no front flashers ) but they can not be turned off, agh.

Maybe ill just wire up my spare orange strobe with a cigarette lighter plug to put in the back window if ever required haha

Cwcb08
08-15-2017, 12:14 PM
Grrr, so I bypassed the voltage regulator by supplying 12v directly to the field terminal ( just for a few seconds ) on the alternator and my battery voltage came up to 15v so I thought it was the regulator. I replaced that (only 30$ ) and its still not charging unless I jump the F terminal and still dies when I disconnect the battery, looking for suggestions what to try next?

I am also getting 12v on all 3 legs of the regulator, ignition, field & battery so the new regulator is working

jopizz
08-15-2017, 01:12 PM
It can only be three things; the alternator, voltage regulator or wiring. If you are getting 15V when you jump the regulator then it seems like your alternator is good. Since you replaced the regulator that leaves the wiring. Check it both to the alternator and where it goes through the firewall. Use the schematics in the TRL or shop manual to trace the colors.

John

Cwcb08
08-15-2017, 01:41 PM
Well I fixed it, the morons who the PO had do the motor work connectes the alternator wrong, the field and gnd wires were reversed at the alternator, I caught on to it when chasing where the wires go, field should be white at the alt, and gnd was black-red.

Thanks for the reply jopizz I just saw it when I came to post this

I'm glad I bought the digital manual back at the beginning

jopizz
08-15-2017, 03:09 PM
Well I fixed it, the morons who the PO had do the motor work connectes the alternator wrong, the field and gnd wires were reversed at the alternator, I caught on to it when chasing where the wires go, field should be white at the alt, and gnd was black-red.

Thanks for the reply jopizz I just saw it when I came to post this

I'm glad I bought the digital manual back at the beginning

At least it was an easy fix. Unfortunately you spent money on a new regulator. If you can't bring it back you have a good spare to keep with you anyway.

John

Cwcb08
08-15-2017, 04:56 PM
What is the 4th terminal on the regulator for? Ive seen diagrams online that show something about a dash light? What does that light indicate? Can it be added to my car?



At least it was an easy fix. Unfortunately you spent money on a new regulator. If you can't bring it back you have a good spare to keep with you anyway.

John

I am going to leave the new one installed but will keep the old one in the parts box because I'm not sure if it is dead and a spare of things never hurts

jopizz
08-15-2017, 07:03 PM
The "I" terminal wasn't used on cars with ammeters like yours but I don't see any reason why you can't connect a light to it. Here's the schematic from a 1963 Thunderbird showing how it's wired.

John

Cwcb08
08-15-2017, 07:18 PM
When does the light come on?

That diagram looks like its wired to the ignition wire?

On mine would it just go from the unused terminal to gnd? Is the resistor required?

jopizz
08-15-2017, 07:56 PM
The light would come on when you turn the key to the ON position and go off when the car starts and begins charging. You need 12V on both sides of the light to turn the light off which is why one side is connected to the ignition switch. Just connecting a light to the I terminal won't work. Normally the alternator won't start charging if it doesn't see 12V through the light to the Field terminal which is why the resistor is used. If the light burns out it will still charge. How it's charges without using the idiot light on 64-66 Thunderbirds is a good question. Maybe Dave can chime in on that.

John

Cwcb08
08-17-2017, 04:07 PM
Changed my stabilizer bar end links today while I had the car jacked up to service the front wheel bearings, cleaned and repacked the drivers side with no issue. the inside passenger side bearing sounded link a glass jar full of nails when I shook it, upon the advice of my FIL I had my wife pickup a new bearing on the way home from work. hope to get it installed 2moro morning and get a test drive in before my helper needs a nap and I have to go to work.

Still lots to learn about cars but another two successfull first attempts today

Cwcb08
08-18-2017, 09:45 AM
here is a album i keep updated with photos

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154564400929929&type=1&l=ccb39d4f6a

Cwcb08
08-18-2017, 12:38 PM
Grr noise is still there after a test drive, I can hear it above 45mph durring acceleration or cruising, but not deceleration.

My friend suggested checking the drive shaft and trans mount, and after some googling now I'm wondering maybe its the front end alignment I know we need one. Her dad also suggested to check the tie rod ends. Anyone have other suggestions?

FARONZ 66 Q CODE
08-21-2017, 09:02 PM
Thanks Cody for the pics . always great to see what I may be seeing when I tear things apart on my 66. :-)

Faron

Cwcb08
08-22-2017, 09:33 AM
Thanks Cody for the pics . always great to see what I may be seeing when I tear things apart on my 66. :-)

Faron
Hopefully they help you Faron, pictures always help me




Going to try and rwplace the trans mount today, after jacking gently on the tail shaft it looks like the rubber and steel have separated

Cwcb08
08-27-2017, 05:58 PM
Frustrating day, carquest didn't call all week so I called them and the mount was in, awesome, had my wife pick it up on the way home from work.

Go to install it after spending 45min trying to get the 3 mount bolts out and the 2 crossmember bolts out around the exhaust and its not the right mount!
Must be the cruise-o-matic mount, our car has a c6.

The holes in the mount are about 3/4" to far apart, will take the new mount back and try and get the correct one ordered locally

jopizz
08-27-2017, 10:04 PM
Most auto stores only show the COM motor mount. Even Rockauto doesn't show the correct C6 mount. You may have to order it from one of the Thunderbird vendors like Mac's. They have the correct one in stock.

John

Cwcb08
08-28-2017, 09:56 AM
Most auto stores only show the COM motor mount. Even Rockauto doesn't show the correct C6 mount. You may have to order it from one of the Thunderbird vendors like Mac's. They have the correct one in stock.

John

thats a bummer, i hate waiting for parts!

car quest couldn't even cross reference the c6 mount part number, looks like i will have to order online. so far macs has the best price at $15.49

jopizz
08-28-2017, 11:36 AM
The mounts look identical except for the hole spacing. I imagine you could elongate the holes in the COM mount to fit the C6 if you don't want to wait.

John

Cwcb08
08-28-2017, 10:19 PM
That might have worked but if it didn't I would be out the 15$ and still have to buy the right one.

I ordered from macs this morning and got an email it was shipped this afternoon.

Cwcb08
08-31-2017, 01:53 PM
YAY, the grinding noise is gone!

Went across the border this morning and picked up the mount installed it then went for a test drive.

More good news now I can feel the car shift twice while driving vs just once.

Tested my fuel gauge and sending unit again as well, grounding the gauge pegs the needle full but I get no resistance when I test the sending unit. Can it be serviced or will it have to be replaced. Who has the best price and quality unit if its not serviceable? My car has the low fuel light. Will that work with a bad unit or are they tied together?

YellowRose
08-31-2017, 02:27 PM
Cody, I would suggest that you check with the various Tbird parts houses listed in the Advertisements Forum. I can tell you this though. The Bird Nest in Oregon rebuilds these gauges like new again. They have rebuilt mine in the past and do great work. I would suggest emailing or calling them, give them an overview of the problem and get a quote from them. Or check the For Sale Forum, if you have not already done so, to see if someone is parting out a '66 Tbird. If so, perhaps you can get a working gauge from them.

Cwcb08
08-31-2017, 02:32 PM
Thanks for the reply Ray but it looks like you misread my post, the gauge functions correctly ( ground it= reads full, remove ground = goes back to empty ). Its the sending unit that does not function.

jopizz
08-31-2017, 03:46 PM
You can try and take the sender apart. Normally it's rust and scale from gasoline seeping inside that causes it not to work. I've had some degree of success. If the parts are still intact when you take the small cover off you can probably fix it. If the parts have deteriorated you will need a new sender. There are two different fuel senders; one with low fuel warning and one without.

John

YellowRose
08-31-2017, 04:07 PM
Sorry, Cody, I would think that if you cant fix the sending unit, that one of the Tbird parts houses would have one. Or someone parting out a '66 Tbird...

Cwcb08
08-31-2017, 06:01 PM
You can try and take the sender apart. Normally it's rust and scale from gasoline seeping inside that causes it not to work. I've had some degree of success. If the parts are still intact when you take the small cover off you can probably fix it. If the parts have deteriorated you will need a new sender. There are two different fuel senders; one with low fuel warning and one without.

John

Ok I might try that.

Yes I have noted there are two versions available.

Do you know of the low fuel termistor will still function if the fuel level sending unit doesn't?

jopizz
08-31-2017, 06:21 PM
Do you know of the low fuel termistor will still function if the fuel level sending unit doesn't?

From what I can tell the low fuel circuit is separate from the normal sending function. It should still work.

John

Cwcb08
09-04-2017, 10:13 AM
Yesterday, After almost maiming a cop with our hubcap leaving the starting area of the bob McMillan poker run and falling to the back of the group. Worrying and wondering if the ole girl was going to make it the whole route about 160km ( transmission tunnel and console started getting warm and the powesteering heavy ), we finished the route with a flush and won 2nd place($300)!

Got her home safely and checked all fluids, powersteering is empty and the transmission fluid barely showing on the stick, ive got some leaks to track down!

Thinking about a new carb with the prize money, we found somone near Detroit selling a bunch of edelbrock 1406 carbs for $200 bnib, the shop we had work on the car also has a edelbrock carb the owner bought from somone that's only a year old, going to check the price on that also.

Were you guys able to see the photos in the facebook link I posted above?

Cwcb08
10-01-2017, 04:30 PM
got a few minutes with the car today, sprayed some JaxWax cleaner around the power steering lines then hosed it off. Once i started the old girl the leak became very obvious, a steady drip from what i believe is one of the wiper motor lines

looks like this hose to me https://www.larrystbird.com/product/steering-box-to-wiper-hose-6466/

once i get that replaced hopefully there wont be any more messes to wipe up off my nice epoxy floors haha


still haven't replaced the to short carpet on the passenger side or tackled the new interior

but i did see on Desert Car Kings they restored a 65 Tbird while watching tv today, looks like it was a rerun from jan 26 '11

Cwcb08
10-10-2017, 09:43 AM
does anyone know the fitting type, size, thread pitch ect, of the hose from that goes from the steering box to the wiper motor, im wondering if i go to the local hydraulic shop maybe i can have them make up a hose cheaper than buying one online and get the car back on the road before the weather actually gets colder

OUR5T8BIRD
10-10-2017, 10:36 AM
does anyone know the fitting type, size, thread pitch ect, of the hose from that goes from the steering box to the wiper motor, im wondering if i go to the local hydraulic shop maybe i can have them make up a hose cheaper than buying one online and get the car back on the road before the weather actually gets colder

I may have a good used one if that is of any help . If I have it , no charge other than mailing it to you .

Cwcb08
10-10-2017, 12:16 PM
I may have a good used one if that is of any help . If I have it , no charge other than mailing it to you .

that would be :DAWESOME! let me know OUR5T8BIRD thankyou :o

OUR5T8BIRD
10-10-2017, 03:56 PM
that would be :DAWESOME! let me know OUR5T8BIRD thankyou :o

Found one . The harder part may be to find a box to put it in . Will be a fun job changing it . Let me know where to go from here . You can send me your phone number by PM if you wish .

Great to see the younger generation getting involved with these older cars .

Cwcb08
10-18-2017, 10:14 AM
got the hose OUR5T8BIRD was generous to offer us installed yesterday. ( thankyou again )

what a pain. getting the old one out was pretty easy, loosened the fitting at the steering box with a box wrench then when i had it backed all the way out by hand i put a rubber glove over it to catch the fluid while i worked on the other end.

once it was removed I fed the replacement back in an attached at the steering box then fought with the wiper motor end, got it started by hand but it didn't feel right so i backed it off ( didnt want to cross thread it ) then it took me 30 min to get the dam thing started again. ended up pulling the hose back out to recompare it to the original, reconnected the original to make sure i wasn't loosing my mind ( without fishing it back into place ). FINALLY after disconnecting it at the steering box i was able to fight it to start at the other end then wrestle it to thread at the steering box.

i snugged up all the fittings filled the power steering pump with fluid, started the car while it was iding i re checked the power steering and transmission fluid level, added as required then we went for a cruise down the river happy to report no leaks!


we have started talking about buying a different car for next year something that accelerates hard and fast ( and prettier paint or already painted with lots of go fast parts readily available ), we have been watching classifieds and online and we both knew it was coming but maybe not so soon..


thinking about starting at $8000 CAD if anyone knows someone looking in MI or ONtario