View Full Version : Bi-Xenon headlight conversion
04-01-2016, 11:06 PM
I found a set of four made by Delta Tech Industries in Ontario California. Amazon has them for under $200.
This is not a "plug and play" installation. You have to cut your headlight buckets, and the chassis metal behind them. You also have to buy two headlight connectors and make some minor wiring changes.
I used a dremel to cut the first two headlight buckets. The kit instructions say cut a 2-1/2" hole, but a 2-3/4" is what is needed. I didn't have a hole saw that size and didn't want to make a trip to Lowes, so I used a dremel cut off blade. A little bit of grinding then re-paint and you're done with this step.
04-01-2016, 11:08 PM
Next use a hole saw and drill a 2-1/2" hole in the chassis metal behind the bucket. Here is the hole after cleaning and coating the bare steel with red primer.
04-01-2016, 11:10 PM
Here's the low beam. It uses an H4 bulb. Note the complex lens pattern that arcs the beam down at the opposing traffic.
04-01-2016, 11:15 PM
And the high beam. Simpler lens pattern.
04-01-2016, 11:18 PM
The high beam uses the same 2-element H4 bulb, and the stock connector will only accept two prongs. And, since the bulbs are deeper, the low beam connector ends up accessible inside the fender, so you have to make the appropriate changes to the wiring harness.
For my harness I feed the high beam first then feed the low beam, the opposite of how the factory did it.
04-01-2016, 11:20 PM
Here the drivers side has the conversion while the passenger still has the halogen sealed beams. The conversion looks blue, but it's actually closer to pure white. I'm guessing about 5000K.
04-01-2016, 11:22 PM
Here is what it looks like down range with low beams only. Again only the drivers side has the conversion. Note the sharp cut-off compared to the sealed beams.
04-01-2016, 11:23 PM
And high beams, down range.
04-01-2016, 11:29 PM
I forgot to mention that his kit requires a relay pair mounted close to the lamps. I had already done that conversion. These draw more power than than the original bulbs and you don't want to put all that power through your headlight switch. The relays will also reduce voltage drop a huge amount, so the lights will be brighter.
04-02-2016, 01:47 AM
Since the new lamps require more power to run and many more electrical accessories tempt us, the old generator is probably under powered and out the window. So is the old mechanical regulator.
Some guys gut the original regulator and mount two headlight relays inside, just to maintain the appearance of being 'stock'. It also makes a clean installation.
H4 lamps are great. I use them. They come in a variety of wattages but they also get very hot. More than ever, you need good grounding conductors. - Dave
04-03-2016, 12:10 PM
Good reminder Dave.
Fuse and wire sizes:
Low beam 2 x 55W/ 12 volts = 9.2 amps, use 15 amp fuse and 18ga wire
High beam 4 x 60W/ 12 volts = 20.0 amps, use 20 or 25 amp and 14ga wire
04-03-2016, 12:21 PM
Here's a method of using a hole saw in an existing large hole, where you don't have use of a pilot hole in the metal that you are cutting. Mount the piece on a scrap of wood and hold it in place with drywall screws.
It's best to drill holes in the metal for the screws, but in this case there wasn't enough room so I put one screw in a notch and a second opposite. Two more would be better.
Since the wood is soft I replaced the short guide drill in the saw with a longer one.
04-03-2016, 12:25 PM
The hole in the chassis metal for the low beam puts the connector inside the front fender. There is plenty of room in there for a projector-type bulb, which are typically 7" or so long. Those conversions are very expensive now, but as the prices drop I'll consider that for another upgrade.
10-11-2016, 05:31 PM
I was driving today, and a truck pulling a trailer came around a curve towards me and something fell off, I'm guessing a rock. Luckily the only thing hit was my driver's side headlamp.
10-11-2016, 05:34 PM
Every accident presents an opportunity to upgrade, so after some shopping, I decided on these:
I wish I had seen them back in April. The H4s were better than the sealed beams, but still not as bright as I had hoped for.
10-18-2016, 04:55 PM
Installed. They seem to have a nice cut-off. Tonight will be the driving test.
10-18-2016, 09:29 PM
After my 20 minute drive tonight I'd rate these a 3 out of 5. Definitely much better than the H4 xenon hi-lows. There were several times that I thought I had my high beams on since they shine so much further down range. The cut-off is good, no one that passed me tonight flashed their high beams to signal glare. Following behind a car I wasn't lighting up their rear window. Set on high together with the high beam H4s the lighting is incredible.
There are several reasons why they only rate a 3. Amazon advertises these as DOT approved, and there is no mark on the bulb to identify it as such. The also claim that DRLs are integral and they clearly are not. Then there is the installation, which required cutting my existing buckets even more than I did with the H4, nearly to the point of getting into the areas that mate with the three dimples in the headlight door that allow adjustability. A separate driver box for these would have shrunk them down in this critical area and made installation a lot easier.
Finally, the two-eye system doesn't produce an even light that I get with my 2012 Jeep with a single larger projector. See the photos for comparison.
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