View Full Version : Making brake lines

03-18-2016, 08:07 PM
This is my first attempt at the double flare. How does it look? I think I still need a little more practice. The flare bar I have leaves some pretty thick grooves all the way up to the flare. Seems like this could interfere with the fitting to me. Did the best I could on pics.

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah278/thomas_smith14/Mobile%20Uploads/brake%20line_zpsz8nfq73v.jpg (http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/thomas_smith14/media/Mobile%20Uploads/brake%20line_zpsz8nfq73v.jpg.html)

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah278/thomas_smith14/Mobile%20Uploads/brake_zps3evcvzc7.jpg (http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/thomas_smith14/media/Mobile%20Uploads/brake_zps3evcvzc7.jpg.html)

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah278/thomas_smith14/Mobile%20Uploads/line_zpssymgu6vc.jpg (http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/thomas_smith14/media/Mobile%20Uploads/line_zpssymgu6vc.jpg.html)

03-19-2016, 04:51 AM
If that's your first attempt, you're going to be awesome in no time.

Watch this YouTube video. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GAiizhX5HA) Don't worry about the outside grooves. It's what's inside that counts. Each tool is a little bit different and you are learning yours. I see you're using conifer tubing. It's softer than steel line. Using the same tool on steel, the grooves will not dig in and the tubing will slide down. Very frustrating. Cunifer makes Harbor Freight tools look good because they work.

It's important to cut the end square or your flare will look lopsided.
After cutting the end square, take a drill bit that fits the inside of your tube and de-bur the opening. Don't let chips get inside.

Now you have an end that is square and straight. If it isn't, use a file to make it so.

Slide the nut on, carefully place the tube in your flaring vise and MEASURE before cranking the wing nuts down. Too much sticking out will cause an inverted flare that won't fit in the female end. Too little sticking out will make a scant double flare that might leak.

I find, on my flaring set, if I bring the tube up to the first notch on the 'bubble hat', the flare has too much metal. So I back it off a little, make the bubble, then finish it off without the hat. Make sure your tool is centered on the tube before cranking down, especially when using the 'bubble hat'.

You're doing great. Now, make more flares and play with your settings. In no time all your flares will be perfect. - Dave

03-20-2016, 05:24 AM
I agree, looks better than 90% of the one's I have ever done. My problem is usually getting the flare thick enough that it does not sink way down in the flare nut itself. I usually start with a store bought line, so that one end at least is already done, but that material may be borderline, like most things these days, so I might need to try a better material.

03-20-2016, 09:04 AM
As I covered in the video, if you put too much material into the flare it will be too big in diameter. Try your next flare with not as much tube sticking out of the vise.

You are making the bubble first, right? This must be a two-step process where the end of the flare is folded inward.

The tubing I use is copper, nickel and iron. It bends and flares like butter, it doesn't rust but it also costs more. - Dave

03-20-2016, 06:01 PM
Looking good!!

I had about 2-3 flaring tools before I bought a KTI tool. Best money I ever spent. Super simple and all the flares turn out great - even the bubble flares I need for the British cars I work on.