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View Full Version : Choke Heat Riser Tube for 61 w/Autolite 4100


GeoffInCarlsbad
02-21-2016, 07:25 PM
I did find the following thread, but didn't answer my question completely, so here goes:

Bul-it - Below is a pic from my '62 HT... Is this setup more like what you have? If so, then the "U" shaped tube is the fresh-air inlet to the heating chamber and the asbestos covered steel line goes to the automatic choke as you know. The larger threaded area in the manifold (to the front of the choke tube) is (to my knowledge) where the Wixom line workers attached the install chain/threaded bolt assembly for engine install. Then I believe they simply unscrewed the bolts and on to the next...

http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2380/10489549/19002752/355296959.jpg

:)

Now, on my 1961 Convertible, the last remaining "hanging" item is this choke tube. The current assembly is in pretty bad shape to the point where the end that is supposed to plug into the exhaust manifold instead put a hole in my thumb. The correct piece I assume was snapped off and became the rusty needle that got me.

Am I wise to replace this whole assembly? The automatic choke seems to work ok, but I suspect it would be better if I made this to spec?

jopizz
02-21-2016, 07:46 PM
You can drill out the hole in the manifold where the old tube is snapped off and use brake line for your choke tube. It's just about the right size.

John

Ian M Greer
02-22-2016, 12:16 PM
To properly repair this you would have to remove the exhaust manifold from that side. As others can tell you this more than enough times you end up with broken exhaust manifold studs in the heads . Their are kits available from T-Birds suppliers for both correct exhaust bolts and locking clips ( make sure if you go this way that you buy the set with that special locking clip for the looped air intake pipe on the manifold . Also available is a new cast plate , gasket and screw kit. You will find if you removed the cast plate that the channelled area under it is full of rust dirt etc. , really making it very inefficient as an acting heat exchanger to warm the air. So it really should be cleaned out for it to work efficiently . In the end to tear it down can be a lot of work and a night mare , or you could drill it out and replace the rusted steal tube and try to suck out some of the rust etc. with a vacuum. At least you know what you could face , Ian ( Remember Not All Birds Fly South )

GeoffInCarlsbad
02-26-2016, 10:48 AM
Hi gang:

So I received my new Choke Tube Kit from the Birds Nest. I see that the tube is too big to fit into the exhaust manifold hole. This is probably due to the old tube broken off and adhering to the hole.

I could drill it out, but will I have issues with any shavings that will fall into the manifold outlet? They will get sucked up into the warm air tube and possibly end up really messing up the carb or worse.

I could put a vacuum as close to the bit as possible to suck up any shavings as Ian suggests...but, I've worked really hard to get Betty running well again, and don't want to screw up all that work.

I don't have the facility to remove the exhaust manifold in my garage, and that's a lot of work for just getting this done....

Another note, I am not seeing a fresh air inlet for the U Shaped tube, on my motor anywhere, so I am just going to ignore that for now.

Any suggestions? Or am I being overly paranoid?

jopizz
02-26-2016, 11:23 AM
I wouldn't worry about it. The hole from the main body to the choke housing is small enough where there's very little chance of anything being sucked into it. I've drilled out that hole many times and never had a problem.

John

Ian M Greer
02-26-2016, 11:49 AM
Geoff , not trying to get you confused on the photo you pasted you see another tube coming out of the cover plate where your choke insulated tube is rusted off .That other tube (U shaped ) basically draws in air to be heated over the exhaust manifold and as hot air rises fallows its way up the insulated choke tube to the choke assembly to warm up the bi metallic curled strip under the choke cover which in turn warps larger pushing your choke plate open .

GeoffInCarlsbad
02-26-2016, 01:57 PM
Hi Ian:

The pic posted is from another thread on the forum. It shows that u-shaped tube, and a new one came in the kit, but I don't see it on my current config. So, I'll take a drill to the existing hole to clear it out and hopefully the new tube will fit in there.

I am just afraid of any of the shavings getting sucked into the choke mechanism and find its way into the carb or intake manifold somehow. In studying the pics in the shop manual, that likelihood may be slight.

http://s29.postimg.org/yrlveab6r/warm_air_intake.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/yrlveab6r/)

Joe Johnston
02-26-2016, 02:52 PM
I am just afraid of any of the shavings getting sucked into the choke mechanism

Drill out the old, use a shop vac to pick up any pieces. The hot air just rises through the tube. Get-R-Dun and don't worry!!

GeoffInCarlsbad
02-26-2016, 03:15 PM
Drill out the old, use a shop vac to pick up any pieces. The hot air just rises through the tube. Get-R-Dun and don't worry!!

I'm charging up the drill right now. I see there is no direct connection to the carb so I feel safer for sure.

Also, the Hot Air Intake "U-SHAPE" Tube hole: I found it where it should be, I just couldn't see it until I took a flashlight to the manifold. In this case the hole is bigger then the tube...so how to I make that stick? I'll figger something out.

I'll post pics once I get-r-dun! Thanks everyone!