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Hazegray53
01-23-2016, 09:34 PM
I'm installing the scarebird setup on my 1960 Sunliner. I bought the parts that are listed on their parts list. 68-69 mustang rotors (raybestos part# 6006), and 83-92 s10 calipers (raybestos part# rc4125 and rc4126). The problem is, once I get it all installed it looks like the outside brake pad will never make contact with the rotor. And, the inside pad is right up against the rotor with the piston fully retracted. I have the spacer that came with the brackets installed and it seems like the rotor is in the correct position. I'm not sure if I'm just doing something wrong or have the wrong parts. Please help! If you have any suggestions.

jopizz
01-23-2016, 10:27 PM
It looks like they have two different brackets listed for 57-68 Fords. One has a GXY code and uses the rotors and calipers that you bought. The other has a SUN code and uses Previa rotors and Celebrity calipers. Are you sure they sent you the correct ones.

John

Hazegray53
01-23-2016, 10:56 PM
I received the GXY code brackets. At least that's what's etched on the brackets.

jopizz
01-23-2016, 11:34 PM
You have the correct rotors and calipers for the GXY brackets. My suggestion is to take pictures of your installation with and without the rotors and calipers in place and contact scarebird and send him the pictures. He should be able to tell you what is wrong. Here's a picture from Marcello's install. Squarebirds use the same brackets so yours should look the same. Here's the link to the entire thread. There are lots of pictures to compare yours to.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12914

John

Hazegray53
01-24-2016, 12:17 AM
Ok thanks. The calipers that I have look a little bit different than those pictures. I guess I'll have to wait until Monday and talk to scarebird.

simplyconnected
01-24-2016, 09:54 AM
Tom, I sent you the link to my Galaxie-Scarebird retrofit in a PM on Jan 8th. Your calipers should fit on the Scarebird brackets like this:
http://squarebirds.org/users/simplyconnected/1959GalaxieDiskBrakes/DSCN4248.JPG

I'm using all the same parts you described.

http://squarebirds.org/users/simplyconnected/1959GalaxieDiskBrakes/DSCN4249.JPG

S10/S15 calipers come in two flavors, one for two-wheel drive and the other for four-wheel drive. Mine happen to be for 4WD but it doesn't matter. The difference is where the brake hose port is drilled. Mine is on the back and 2WD is on the end. Either one works as well as the other and I have no preference.

One last consideration:
Make sure your calipers have the rubber grommets and bushings. If you bought 'loaded calipers' they should come with everything. If you simply bought (bare) calipers and (bare) pads, you need the caliper bolt kit from your auto parts store. Check it out on my brake site (http://squarebirds.org/users/simplyconnected/1959GalaxieDiskBrakes/), picture #25-6:

http://squarebirds.org/users/simplyconnected/1959GalaxieDiskBrakes/CaliperBrakeKit_Carlson-H5563.jpg (http://squarebirds.org/users/simplyconnected/1959GalaxieDiskBrakes/)
- Dave

Hazegray53
01-24-2016, 01:04 PM
I have definetly been using your site for reference. I appreciate that. I bought loaded calipers so I'm pretty sure I have everything. Maybe it will make a difference when all the lines are hooked up and pressure is applied? I just don't see how that outside pad will make contact. It's about 1/4 inch away and there's no way the caliper can move any more inboard. Here's pics of what I've got.

jopizz
01-24-2016, 02:46 PM
According to what you are describing the rotor needs to come out farther to hit the outer pad. It looks like you are maxed out on the spindle from what I can see. Even with the piston fully retracted I don't see how you can have 1/4" gap. Looking at Dave's picture it looks like the caliper is right up against the bracket. There's also more bolt showing than in your picture. In your picture it looks like there's a gap. Is there something preventing it from going closer to the bracket.

John

Hazegray53
01-24-2016, 04:27 PM
Well it seems the problem here is me and lack of experience. now that I have it all together again and figured out how the system operates it looks like it will all work just fine. Thanks for all the help! I'm sure I'll be back on here again when I start running brake lines and have the power booster and master to install.

jopizz
01-24-2016, 04:35 PM
Experience is a great thing. It's just a shame it's wasted on us old people.


John

YellowRose
01-24-2016, 05:07 PM
I see you figured out the problem and corrected it. When it comes to installing brake lines, and the booster and MC, John and Dave will be able to help you there also, I am sure. They are masters at doing that kind of work, as are others on here. You have a wealth of experience among your fellow Forum users at your fingertips to help you. Back to the Bronco's-Pats game!

simplyconnected
01-24-2016, 05:54 PM
I see something I don't like... That big 9/16" bolt head is the same size as the bushing (under the head). It needs a washer to trap and hold the Scarebird bracket, just in case a weld cuts loose on the back side of the bushing. 9/16" is serious steel so tighten it HARD. (Refer to my pictures if this isn't clear.)

http://squarebirds.org/Brakes/ScarebirdBracket02_800.jpg

I learned something about new rotor hubs. Sometimes the races are not driven all the way home and after a while the wheel will develop slop. To remedy this, I mount the tire on the rotor and turn it by hand as I tighten HARD on the spindle nut. The nut exerts tremendous pressure as the bearings roll the pressure out evenly against the inner and outer races. When the nut moves no more, back it off and set your castle nut in the normal way.

This caliper looks just fine because your piston is collapsed all the way and you probably don't have anti-squeal plates behind the pads. Stopping torque is not on the bolts but it is on the casting that pushes against the large opening in the bracket. The pins simply guide the pads as they float on the rotor, when pressure is not applied.

http://squarebirds.org/Brakes/ScarebirdBracket01_800.jpg

This is a golden opportunity to paint your castings. Hit the box stores for a can of Barbecue paint. It's high temp, inexpensive and I think Rustoleum makes it. - Dave

Wudro
01-24-2016, 09:44 PM
What did you fix? Where was the problem?

Hazegray53
01-24-2016, 11:34 PM
Thank you for all the responses. I'll take your advice and definitely get a washer on the top bolt. Do the calipers need to be painted?

I didn't actually have to fix anything. The fit in the bracket was just tight and I didn't realize the caliper would move along the mounting bolts. Once I figured all that out I knew it would work the way it was meant to once pressure is applied and the piston is actuated.

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah278/thomas_smith14/Mobile%20Uploads/d1246732-d0d0-48e5-947a-a774fe0728ae_zpsjwkgsowo.jpg (http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/thomas_smith14/media/Mobile%20Uploads/d1246732-d0d0-48e5-947a-a774fe0728ae_zpsjwkgsowo.jpg.html)

Randy
03-02-2016, 12:08 AM
Lots of good information, I'm in the gathering all the parts to do this job.
It's nice to have had someone or a bunch of ones who have paved a path for us young squares. And that's swell.