View Full Version : here it is 63 ht, progress being made
12-19-2015, 10:18 PM
A little bit of history on this car, My father in law bought this car from original owner in 1972 with 74xxx on od. My wife went to Disney World with her brother in this car in 1976 for Bicentennial celebration and has very vivid memories of the trip. This car is a family heirloom that has been neglected for 35 years. Now I have the responsibility of bringing her back to her glory days. I have always been a Chevy guy and have built many show quality high performance chevys through my life but this FE ford is very unique and interesting. Thanks to all the members on this site for your help on this project and in general in the understanding of how this great classic should be built.
12-19-2015, 10:42 PM
This car has bent so many pushrods it is unbelievable, how is this possible? I found that the valves were almost all glued shut and a couple of bent valve. I disassembled the heads, totally cleaned everything and replaced 2 bent valves. Painted the heads black and everything looks beautiful now.
12-19-2015, 11:04 PM
This car has bent so many pushrods it is unbelievable, how is this possible? I found that the valves were almost all glued shut and a couple of bent valve.
When gasoline gets old it turns to varnish. That is what glued your valves shut. On a car that hasn't run for many years you should remove the rocker arms and tap on the valves with a rubber mallet. If it feels solid the valves are stuck. Shoot some carburetor cleaner down the valve stems. That usually does the trick.
12-20-2015, 11:30 AM
I pulled the heads, disassembled everything and cleaned them up like new. Replaced 2 bent valves and lapped the valves. This being a 74+ truck engine it has hardened valve seats and everything looked good.
12-20-2015, 11:50 AM
here some pics
12-20-2015, 11:56 AM
Spent yesterday afternoon cleaning up pistons and cylinders and started reassembly. Fresh oil, new lifters and pushrods. engine really cleaned up well.
12-20-2015, 12:01 PM
The bolt that goes into this hole is undercut:
The bolt heads look the same but one shoulder is smaller in diameter; one on each rocker shaft assembly. This ain't your run of the mill Chevy.
12-20-2015, 12:13 PM
Yes I'm aware of the undercut bolt, thanks Dave. The restrictor jet is drilled out to .075, should help control oil to top and oil pressure down below. My next step is to measure valve train to be sure pushrod length is to spec. I don't want no more of this
12-20-2015, 02:46 PM
Both ends of the FE rocker shafts are plugged and the only way for oil to exit is through the oil holes in the rocker arms.
I suggest you disassemble your rocker shafts and do a thorough cleaning of the shafts and rocker arms. Use a drill bit to clear the holes in the rocker arms. Use a Dremmel tool to better define the oil path on the inside of the rocker arms.
CLICK HERE (http://www.squarebirds.org/simplyconnected/390Build/RockerShafts.htm) for my site. - Dave
12-20-2015, 08:58 PM
I cleaned and lubed them even though there was nothing to clean, they were like new. Some more progress made today. Rocker arm to valve clearance all within spec at .10 give or take a hundreth or 2 using standard length 9.62 in pushrods:D
12-21-2015, 02:09 PM
Looks SUPER !
I've got a gummed up or failed lifter (10K mile engine) and plan to replace all of mine soon. Thanks for posting the pics - I was thinking I may be able to replace them without pulling the intake or heads using my snap-on lifter tool and this shows me it just might work.
Just out of curiosity what brand lifter did you go back with?
(a little family history with my car too - my Dad and Mom bought it new so I know what your wife is talking about with the trips in the car) :D
12-21-2015, 08:14 PM
Hi Eric, hope your project goes well for you.I used Sealed Power lifters and Comp Cams pushrods. I was nervous about putting this valvetrain together due to its history of bending pushrods into letter S but all went well, just make sure they are blead down when you install them. Good luck!
01-18-2016, 12:17 PM
Did you do all that work without removing the engine from the vehicle?
Making progress too!
01-19-2016, 11:44 PM
Yes, I just pulled the intake and heads. Pulled all the valves out and degunked everything and replaced 2 bent valves. The intake valves were glued in place by foul gas. Since I had it all apart felt it was a good time to clean it up and paint what I could. It is a few odds and ends from being ready to start.
01-20-2016, 05:25 AM
That's a lot of work and the castings are very heavy. If your valves were bent by the pistons you got lucky, as the damage could have been much more extensive. I hope everything goes well. - Dave
02-13-2016, 10:48 PM
I agree Dave, with no disrepect meant for my late father-in-law i think mistakes were made and the car sat too long but I hope to have them all corrected. Winter sucks so little progress is made but disc brake conversion will be next!!!
05-22-2016, 02:54 PM
Got new fuel lines and tank installed and it runs again for first time in over 25 years. Now need to get carb and timing dialed in and front disc brake conversion finished. Here are some pics of disc brake conversion progress. The kit came with 7 in booster but I found a 9 in for 80 bux and modified it to work with factory mounting bracket.
05-22-2016, 06:15 PM
Nice work, Tony. I love your fabrications.
You're almost on the road...
05-22-2016, 09:42 PM
Thanks Dave, I had to come up with something that would work happy with how it worked out. Here are a couple of complete master cylinder/booster bench bleed and ready to go back on car.
05-22-2016, 10:59 PM
Did you get the pigtail for the top of your combination valve? Do you understand how it works and how to connect it?
05-22-2016, 11:45 PM
No pigtail was included. I understand that it is a warning indicator for loss of pressure in either side of the system and works by closing a ground connection to a warning light in the car. Should be easy enough to come up with something to make it work.
05-29-2016, 12:43 PM
Where did you get your conversion kit? I just had my origonal booster rebuilt on my 1963. Do you know if I could I bolt on a new dual chamber master cylinder to my existing booster? Thanks and great job. Keep up the great work.
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