PDA

View Full Version : Need a favor: trunk panel measurement


great white
12-21-2014, 02:07 PM
Hi all. I've got a 1962 TBird and the PO went a little crazy with cutting in the trunk:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/gr8twhite/lockeddownalbum/62%20tbirda/800x600/f6a688b1-d088-4278-9d66-f4daec251489_zps353387ac.jpg

I can buy the side panels and extensions, and just metal fab pretty much the rest. The problem is I don't know where the seam would be located for the side extensions. This makes it very difficult to get things like the rear quarters (which also need to be replaced) lined up properly. If some one could lift their trunk mat and measure the width of the center panel, like so:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/gr8twhite/trunkwidth_zps1a2c835b.jpg

It would be greatly appreciated. With that measurement I can make the center panel the proper width and then start building back out from there.

It would also be great if you could measure in three spots so that any taper would be evident. I'm hoping it's just a square section. Would make repairing it much easier.

Cheers.

simplyconnected
12-21-2014, 03:12 PM
I would start with the wheel housings first. Marry them to the quarter panel arches and extend them to the bottom of the quarter. Then you will have a much better idea of where your trunk panels and extensions lay with relation to the rear sub-frame.

Are you done with the sub-frame and rear (#4) crossmember? Does the bumper have good steel to bolt to? Are the spring perches reinforced and sound? Don't cover them until they are. - Dave

great white
12-21-2014, 03:44 PM
I would start with the wheel housings first. Marry them to the quarter panel arches and extend them to the bottom of the quarter. Then you will have a much better idea of where your trunk panels and extensions lay with relation to the rear sub-frame.

Are you done with the sub-frame and rear (#4) crossmember? Does the bumper have good steel to bolt to? Are the spring perches reinforced and sound? Don't cover them until they are. - Dave


Good points.

I won't get hands on the car for another 2 months, so I'm just doing research right now.

So far it's just been tear down. I haven't cut or burned any new metal in yet. My job transferred me before I could get much further than what you see in the pictures. I'm currently waiting to return to where the car is in teh next few months. The PO cut out all that metal (rust is probably more accurate), not I.

:mad:

Plan it to get the center body structure (ie: rockers and floor pans) repaired and solid and then work out to the front and rear subframe assemblies from there.

:cool:

simplyconnected
12-21-2014, 06:07 PM
If it isn't out already, pull the fuel tank. Then you can safely weld to your heart's desire. You can also work on the Fuel Tank Strap mounts.

I would say the previous owner did you a favor by cutting out the floor. Too bad he didn't get more, to save you some blades.

Ford stamped thin sheet metal inner panels with lots of shapes and lines so they could get away with using thinner metal. If they weren't there every bump would make the panels flex in a symphony of sounds. You can match body mounts with large washers and longer bolts. Most inner panels are covered, anyway. Your biggest challenge will be door bottoms and quarter bottoms. I don't know if your fenders are eaten away or the torque boxes behind them but those are important as well.

Good luck with your build. Since you are already a mechanic, you shouldn't need much advice. Do you have a Shop Manual for your car? - Dave

great white
12-21-2014, 06:23 PM
Yep, tank is long since been removed. As wel as the fuel lines all the way up to the pump.

I do have the shop manual, but it's pretty sparse. I suppose it's because there's not a lot to a 62 car compared to something a bit more "modern".

:D

I also have the body and trim assembly manual.

I'm kind of half thinking of just building my panels now instead of buying prefab. It's not like I haven't built panels before. It might actually work to my advantage as I don't plan to install the fender skirts. If I fab my own openings, I won't have to deal with the "step" in the lips for the skirt.

I guess I'll have to see if my drive to do the metal work drops and I chose to just open the wallet and buy panels instead!

:rolleyes:

jopizz
12-21-2014, 07:29 PM
The replacement panels I've used leave a lot to be desired. They certainly aren't made to the specs that the originals were. You will need to massage them quite a bit to get them to fit and look correct. If you have the skill to fabricate your own then you'll probably be happier with the outcome.

John

great white
12-24-2014, 10:16 AM
Got the measurement I needed from a gent on VTCI....