View Full Version : Rust Proofing 62 Coupe
07-20-2013, 02:02 AM
I need some advice. I was thinking about the unthinkable. Taking the car to "Krown" rustproofing and letting them drill holes in the body and apply that rust proofing creeping oil. This product is amazing but I am not sure if it should be done. I was going to have them leave the holes uncapped after spraying and address the holes at home with paint and clear coat touch up. I am studying the body of this car to determine where is the best place to let them drill the holes to ensure as much as that oil as possible gets to where it should go. The earlier birds have drainage plugs in the wheel wells but I don't know if the 62 coupe has. I want to soak the rocker areas, doors and wheel wells. Although this car does not see the rain. It has seen cold temps during storage and any surface rust that is hiding I would like to halt it.
07-20-2013, 05:23 AM
What ever happened to Ziebart? I had a Pinto and paid for SymTech BEFORE delivery at the Ford dealership. Guess what... it doesn't work and it's not cheap.
The passenger door developed a rust hole in the INNER panel so large I could put my fist through it. I brought the car back to exercise the "lifetime warranty." The dealership said, 'Oh, we don't have that any more. If you want, you can call the SymTech company in Ohio.'
I did. They offered the product price less application cost and no more. The warranty was useless and I got taken. Never again.
I used POR15 in the inner panels of my '55, and it worked great. POR15 is water based and a rust converter (it has phosphoric acid in it). For surfaces exposed to the sun, I top coated the POR15. - Dave
07-20-2013, 11:02 AM
Don't do it. I have similar stories, and anyone who owned cars back in the 70's and '80's and got snookered will tell you the same thing. My first new car was an '85 TBird and after hearing the stories I had nothing done to it. Fresh from the factory, the underside was a light gray.
I lived in Syracuse, NY, a city where they don't use sand on their roads during the winter, they just use plain salt. The surrounding areas mix it with whatever traction aid they can buy cheap: sand, coal ash, mine tailings. I washed all that crap off weekly, and got to know the underside of that car very well, finding all the spots where the crud liked to accumulate and getting it all out with a garden house sprayer. I had long gauntlet style rubber gloves so I could do this in the freezing weather.
The car stood up reasonably well. It developed rust spots in the rocker panels after 9 years, but the "untreated" bottom still looked good.
My '64 TBird was a downstate NY car. The owner had no such attention to clean that I did. When I got it in 1986 the floors, trunk bottom, and bottoms of the rear fenders were all gone. Both door skins need to be replaced, along with one front fender. Mice had nested in the rocker panels, and I fished out their nests through openings in the rear wheel houses using a long lance made from 1/4" steel brake line with 180 degree bend at the end, and compressed air. Then I made a long extension on a cheap paint gun out of more tube and a 90 degree bend and coated it all with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. This was before POR but it has held up.
My advice is to DIY. You can disassemble the front wheel houses, clean and treat those with POR. Then you'll have access to the inside of the front fenders, clean and treat those as well. Remove the trunk liner and do the same. Interior, same thing. Under body, same thing, followed by rubberized paint. You can do the rocker panels as I've described, but use POR.
You'll have a much better job than paying some garage money to spray goo all around. He's not going to do any cleaning and prep. Spaying goo over rust and grit will create a disaster.
07-21-2013, 02:23 PM
Without trying to sound like I am selling their product, I am a fan of KROWN. This is an oil that "creeps" and lubricates and is highly recommended. I am just unsure if bird owners would even think of drilling holes in a restored car. This car has not and will not see any winter or much moisture. I will store it come September.
I am trying to research what would be the best areas of the car to enter as to ensure complete coverage. I would like to keep the hole drilling to a minimum but get total coverage. The rocker areas, trunk, underneath, and any hidden spots that have been a problem for these birds. If there are any members who have been auto body mechanics and have worked on these birds or the unibody in general, any areas you could suggest would be greatly appreciated. The door jams and sills that are covered in the aluminum trim is a starting point. I will remove the trim before I go to get the car sprayed. I want to get access to the complete rocker tunnels. The earlier birds had cowl plugs in the wheel wells. I don't know if the 62 has them. I will look in the manual but I dont know how clear of a picture I will find as to the best entry points. The guys at KROWN will probably only know modern cars so I will have to do my homework before I go so I can direct them so the whole car gets done.
07-21-2013, 03:07 PM
ANY deviation from 'stock' diminishes the value of every classic car. Yes, that includes 'extra' holes and added third-party products in the inner panels.
Having said that, it's YOUR car, your money and you are free to roll up hundred dollar bills to light your cigars. I don't mean to sound cynical but most folks on this site are receptive to changes that can be undone or changes that bring the car back to 'factory stock'. Changes for safety purposes are an exception.
The placement of holes, are required to accommodate the type of application tools you use. Better wands and smaller sprayers are less intrusive and they don't leave a lot of ugly plastic plug holes. - Dave
07-21-2013, 03:48 PM
I am going to try to post pictures of the process so others can see if they would like to do their car too. My brother has been in the auto body trade for 35 years and says it is not a bad idea. The rockers are the trouble spot in this uni-body and that would be a good area to target. The door sill molding will come off and I will probably hit the rockers from that area. The trim will cover up the holes once I address the holes. Another benefit of this oil spray coating is the lubricating property of the oil. This oil will lubricate the mounts etc...and not deteriorate the rubber it comes in contact with. Door mechanisms and latches and other mechanical components will benefit. The only draw back is the drip for a week or so. I will place some cardboard covered in plastic to catch the drops.
09-21-2013, 06:54 AM
Well today I went and got the bird rust proofed. It has been 5 years since I got this oil spray done on my other vehicle. This will be the first spray, other than the factory dip this car has seen. The employees at this location were top notch. They gently sprayed the bird in all the proper places. I was quite pleased that they managed to hit every area without drilling any holes. After the car was completed it was time for it’s bird bath. This car has not seen much water but with the new protective spray, I was not worried. Thanks to all the guys for carefully hitting every area thoroughly and giving me the peace of mind that rust will not find a home on my 62HT.
01-04-2014, 05:14 PM
Make sure to check any drip holes in your doors and rockers to make sure they are not plugged with the rustproofing compound. I worked many years at dealerships and we often saw pooling in doors after rustproofing. I remember sticking a small screwdriver in a drain hole and watching about a liter (quart) of water run out onto the floor.
People sometimes think that the window belt moldings seal water - they cannot possibly do that. So there is always water running on the inside of doors - hence the vapor barrier.
I could rant now about "paint sealant." The invisible forcefield that protected your car from rock chips and had a lifetime warranty. Except that if you did not have it inspected every year the warranty was void. Oh, I guess I just did!
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