PDA

View Full Version : fel-pro neoprene seal


tp tbird
06-25-2012, 06:24 PM
Does anyone know if they still make the fel-pro neoprene seal for the 430 engine ,I have been looking and don't find anything for the 430.I about to take my 59 430 in and check the rear main and replace the seals because of the continuing rear leak.I had the neoprene seal in and it leaked and now I have the rope in and it leaks so it is going to a garage to do it.This has been a on going leak for a long time and I am getting tired of oil spots on the driveway.

KULTULZ
06-25-2012, 09:10 PM
http://www.bestgasket.com/admin/uploadedimages/3a72s.jpg

tp tbird
06-26-2012, 11:30 AM
Thanks for the part number I was looking under Fel-Pro and didn't think of Best Gaskets.Now the question is which should I put in rope or rubber?The guy that put the engine together is the one that put rubber in first that didn't work then the rope with just a little better success and now seems to be leaking more. I will go to a different guy that has a shop and a lift to work on in the car this time.

KULTULZ
06-26-2012, 03:56 PM
MEL had some problems with the rear seal and actually released an oversize rope seal kit to allow for the machining variances. If you are sure it is the rear seal (and there are several possible causes for leaking @ the rear of the block), I would use rope as it hopefully will swell enough to allow for excessive clearance(s).

See the pins in the photo?

- http://www.bestgasket.com/pop_up_picture.asp?PartNumber=6215

These properly installed will expand the side seals and prevent leaks there.

Verify proper crankcase ventilation (either road draft or PCV) as a malfunctioning system will cause excessive crankcase pressure and will find the easiest way to vent itself.

Think of a later (LINC) PCV upgrade.

tp tbird
06-26-2012, 04:20 PM
the road draft tube seems to be okay,and I have a rope seal in there now and it seems to have started leaking more.I ony have about 600 or 700 hundred miles on the engine.That one you listed is for different size engine isn't it?

KULTULZ
06-26-2012, 09:41 PM
the road draft tube seems to be okay,

What does seems to be mean?

and I have a rope seal in there now and it seems to have started leaking more.I ony have about 600 or 700 hundred miles on the engine.If the seal was a quality part, installed correctly and is leaking this soon, it has to be redone.

That one you listed is for different size engine isn't it?Lincoln V8 1952-68

tp tbird
06-26-2012, 09:50 PM
When the guy rebuild the engine I got a rubber seal to put in it.I was getting oil dripping from the rear ,he said he would put the rope seal in and it still had a small leak.Just last week I drove it around town and it was dripping about very foot when I pulled back in my driveway.

KULTULZ
06-27-2012, 07:22 AM
Below is some information I have complied. There also two photos to be included later hopefully.

_______________________________

REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEALS:

NOTE -

Crankshaft seal is installed in groove in block and in seal retainer (directly behind rear main bearing) or in rear main
bearing cap. Retainer or cap is sealed in block by special sealing strips inserted in grooves in sides of retainer or cap.

Seal Installation:

With Crankshaft Out-

Install new oil seal in block with special tool to drive it in place (see table below). Cut surplus seal flush with parting
surface. Repeat operation on bearing cap or retainer.

Use Tool 6335 or 6336-A1 to hold side seals in place
while installing retainer.

On later cars without seal retainer, dip seals in engine oil and quickly install them.

( NOTE ) - It may be necessary to drive them in
place the last 1/2" of travel. DO NOT use sealer on side seals. They will expand when in contact with
engine oil.

Testing Seal Installation: Check retainer-to-cylinder
block seal for leaks. Squirt a few drops of oil into seal
corners on outside of cylinder block. Blow compressed
air into seal corners from inside block. If air bubbles
appear in oil, remove seal retainer. Be sure all mating
surfaces are clean. Install new seals and repeat air test.

OVERSIZE REAR MAIN BEARING SEAL NOTE:

When rear main bearing seal does not compress firmly when
forced into block and cap (cause of oil leak) install an
oversize seal, Part No. B6Q-6336-A released for service.

DO NOT USE oversize seal unless inspection
shows that standard seal does not seal opening properly.

Rear Main Bearing Seal Tool Table-

Crankshaft Diam. Tool Needed-

2.4980-2.4986" T52L-6701-AGD
2.6235-2.6243" 6701-A
2.7484-2.7492" 6701C or T58P-6701-A
2.8994-2.9002" 6701-B

1958-60 383' and 430" ENGINE MAIN BEARING BOLT
SERVICE REPLACEMENT NOTE:

To prevent loss of torque on main bearing bolts, install bolts, Part No. 374237-S. These new bolts have a 13/16" head (across flats), replacing bolts having 3/4" head. It is recommended that at any time main bearing bolts are removed later type bolts should be installed.

Rear Seal PN B6Q 6336-A denotes the part was initially released for service for the LINC Y-BLOCK HD Truck Engine Series of the period and was used as a service fix for the MEL.

Also, original side seals did not have the pins as do the new service replacement seals. Once the side seals are soaked in oil and driven into place, the pins are driven into them (hole provided) to further expand them. Also note leak test method. If the neoprene seal initially leaks, it is an indication that it requires a rope seal or possibly the OS rope seal. Extreme care must be taken during installation including making sure all mating surfaces and crank seal journal are true and free from burrs.

If you paid someone to assemble the engine, he should be responsible for the repair.

Here are the two pages from the manual that Gary asked me to add to this for him. Click on the link and when it comes up, if it downsizes itself. Click on the picture and it should come up full screen.

http://www.squarebirds.org/SB/TOOL-%20T52L-6701-AGD_1sm.jpg

http://www.squarebirds.org/SB/TOOL-%20T52L-6701-AGD_2sm.jpg

tp tbird
06-27-2012, 10:41 AM
Thanks for the information.