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villain
02-17-2011, 04:10 PM
There were a couple of delays in getting things squared away but she is now on the transport and in route to me...hopefully should be here tomorrow morning. I'll take a lot more pics and such once it's here, but figured I would share a few of the first pics I got of it.
I seriously can't wait to get this car...I am super excited and will be looking to you guys for help where I can get it. Supposedly it was fully restored in 2002 and there is documentation for the resto with the car, but I can safely say after seeing it in person that there is still a significant amount to do but i look forward to getting it fully up to par.

here is a vid that was shot while we were checking it out too (.mov file, so will require a quicktime browser plugin for non-mac users if you dont have it installed already)
http://www._dbonvillain.com/pics/tbird/1960%20tbird.mov

Richard D. Hord
02-17-2011, 06:46 PM
Hey David,
You done good!
Richard D. Hord

villain
02-17-2011, 07:39 PM
Thanks Richard - she is registry #1560. Can't wait to see this truck pull up :-)

DKheld
02-17-2011, 10:22 PM
Nice one. Looks like a nice restoration. Love those wire wheels. You'll have a great time cruising this summer.

:cool:

Eric
registry 5347

nemo
02-17-2011, 10:44 PM
Is that very discrete red pin striping on the car? That looks great, Just a hint. I like it, great car!

YellowRose
02-18-2011, 04:12 AM
I see that David has posted the pix of his find! She is a beauty, for sure. Yes, those are red pinstripes that you see. Just a touch of them. I am sure he is going to be excited to see that truck pull up with her! I have been talking with David for weeks back and forth in email as we hunted for a good Tbird for him, and he found one! Not only is it a J Code Golde Top, but it is fully loaded, including AC and as you can see, dual spotlights. Those are the Unity HL-2 models as I recall, with the round mirrors in them. Congratulations, David!

villain
02-20-2011, 11:01 PM
So I got it home finally and put 25-30 miles on it right away. There are a variety of issues, but the first question I got (I have been swapping emails with Ray on the subject) is what the heck do you do for gas for the thing? I assume it wants leaded fuel? I probably already messed stuff up cause i put 12 gal or so of Premium Unleaded in it right away before cruising around a bit.
I expect to have to rebuild the engine anyway as I have little to no documentation about it's history, but still I don't want to mess anything up.
Any advice is welcome and appreciated.
And in addition to needing some interior fixing up and a full paint job that I assume will be a good 10-12k so far I need to address (should i cross-post on the technical forum?):

It only starts in Neutral (and neutral is a bit off of where it should be visually)
The wipers dont work
The turn signals dont work (and I hear or read somewhere you can mod it with the sequential ones across the 3 lights in the rear?) - also i dont think they are working in the front or the rear (not sure where the front signals are exactly...but i dont see them blink) so maybe that means it's the switch in the column?
The horn doesn't work
The radio doesn't work (although i just want it to look right/oem and be able to play an ipod really)
The clock doesn't work
both my driver and passenger side windows are cracked and will need to be replaced
I will definitely want to swap it to disc brakes (can you do all 4 corners? or just the front?)
I will want a new steering wheel - i hate the stuff currently wrapped on it and think the white underneath is chipped and cracked
There is some interior trim that should be replaced and the seat covers too probably based on a tear in the driver back side
It seemed to smoke a bit from the defrosters and from the passenger footwell/floorboard at first, but that seems to have gone away? not sure if that's normal or what it was even. There was some antifreeze it looked like on the passenger rubber floormat too when i first got it, but doesnt look like any more has dripped there or anything - but where would that even come from?So first i want to have it gone through and make sure the engine is sorted and all the electrical stuff is addressed and hopefully get the brakes upgraded right away...and figure out how i need to fuel the thing :-)
Then I can worry about the cosmetic stuff and get it painted and all that.

I gotta say though, I really LOVE the car. It's night and day from anything else I have ever owned and it's a blast to cruise around in.

villain
02-20-2011, 11:12 PM
Oh - and look what came with it:

YellowRose
02-20-2011, 11:21 PM
I moved this thread for David because he has a number of things that needs work done on his new Tbird and ya'll certainly should be able to help him. I figured it needed to be in the Golde Top Forum, since it is one, and a J Code to boot. Help away!

villain
02-20-2011, 11:45 PM
oh also - there is a little metal plate that rivets below the AC controls that has like AC instructions on it or something - they had it still on another '60 that was in the same dealer, but I couldn't seem to talk him out of taking it off that car.
anyone know a source for one of those? I don't see it in the catalogs I have acquired so far.

YellowRose
02-21-2011, 01:37 AM
First of all, let me say that I have not heard of a plate below the AC controls other than the long, rectangular one that says "AIR COND PULL HEATER". Maybe that is the one that you are talking about. If so, Bob, at Bobs Birdhouse in Delaware, Don and the guys at the Bird Nest in Oregon, and maybe Carl ~ partsetal here on the Forum might have one off his parts cars. PM him first.

Now let me see if I can help you with some of the things you are seeing that needs to be fixed.
It only starts in Neutral (and neutral is a bit off of where it should be visually)Try putting it over into Park and pull the gear shift lever towards you to see if it will start there. This might be a matter of adjusting the steering linkage, or the Neutral Switch which is down at the bottom of the steering column, as I recall. Others can set you straight on this.
The wipers dont workThe wipers never worked that great at all since they are vacuum wipers. But you should be seeing some action out of them when you turn them on. This could be a matter of the vacuum hoses not being hooked up to the windshield wiper motor which is behind the glove box. Or it could be an electrical problem with the windshield wiper motor not getting any juice to it. Or something else. If that car still has the original fuel pump on it, there should be a hose coming off the top of the fuel pump, which is the vacuum pump. One hose goes to the manifold and the other across over to a hole in the firewall to the wiper motor. Me, I got tired of putting up with a vacuum motor and had an electric one installed. You can read about that on the Technical Resource Library link. In fact, you should bring that up (all of you!) and bookmark it because many of the things that are talked about in these threads on the Forum, are already covered there.
The turn signals dont work (and I hear or read somewhere you can mod it with the sequential ones across the 3 lights in the rear?) - also i dont think they are working in the front or the rear (not sure where the front signals are exactly...but i dont see them blink) so maybe that means it's the switch in the column?The turn signals not working could be in the steering column with that mechanism, or it could be electrical. You should see the turn signal indicators blinking when you push the blinker shaft down or up. You could have a problem with you light switch under the dash. Bulbs could be blown. Your front blinkers are built into the bumpers. Yes, there is the mod that you can do to a '60 that, like the Flairbirds, will sequence your tail lights when you turn, which is cool. It is also in the TRL.
The horn doesn't workOnce again, this could be in the steering wheel, with the horn contacts not making contact. It could also be electrical, with the power not getting to the horns (two of them, left and right) in the grill.
The radio doesn't work (although i just want it to look right/oem and be able to play an ipod really)There is a power supply/amplifier unit on the left side of the steering wheel behind the cover in front of your left knee. That could be out and the diodes are impossible to find. Finding a working unit is difficult. I happen to have a spare radio and spare power supply/amplifier that works. Since you would like it to look like the original one, there are a number of guys who specialize modifying that radio for AM/FM/Cassette, maybe even CD's, and you can play your Ipod through it, as I recall. It will have the Tbird face plate on it, but inside that box will be a new, modern radio. Once again, this is covered in the TRL under Radio.
The clock doesn't workThere are procedures in the TRL for repairing your clock. Or... you can do what I did... Send it to the Birds Nest and have them fix it and quartz it for you. It was worth it to me.
both my driver and passenger side windows are cracked and will need to be replacedCarl ~ partsetal here, might be able to help you with that. Or any of the Tbird parts houses. Or some of the guys that are parting out Squarebirds that are listed in the For Sale/Parts Forum below.
I will definitely want to swap it to disc brakes (can you do all 4 corners? or just the front?)You can do all four corners and there are those that have. I would talk with Dave Dare ~ simplyconnected and Howard Prout up in Canada, who recently did his. There are also others on here who have been this route.
I will want a new steering wheel - i hate the stuff currently wrapped on it and think the white underneath is chipped and crackedThe man to see about getting your steering wheel done is Jed Zimmerman, Ca58Tbird here on the Forum. He is the only one, that I know of, who repairs them. It will look like it just came from the factory when he finishes it. Mine was redone by Jed, as are others on here. Look down in the Advertisers Forum, for his contact information. He is also the only one that makes the seat foams for all '58-'66 Tbirds for the parts vendors.
There is some interior trim that should be replaced and the seat covers too probably based on a tear in the driver back sideAs we have discussed, you need to find a good interior man for this work that really knows his stuff. You can get the seat covers and door panels from any of the vendors.
It seemed to smoke a bit from the defrosters and from the passenger footwell/floorboard at first, but that seems to have gone away? not sure if that's normal or what it was even. There was some antifreeze it looked like on the passenger rubber floormat too when i first got it, but doesnt look like any more has dripped there or anything - but where would that even come from?What you saw might be because the car has not been driven much recently, I assume. But the techies on here can tell you more about that, I hope.

So first i want to have it gone through and make sure the engine is sorted and all the electrical stuff is addressed and hopefully get the brakes upgraded right away...and figure out how i need to fuel the thing :-)
Then I can worry about the cosmetic stuff and get it painted and all that.

I gotta say though, I really LOVE the car. It's night and day from anything else I have ever owned and it's a blast to cruise around in. _ _________________

Richard D. Hord
02-21-2011, 09:30 AM
So I got it home finally and put 25-30 miles on it right away. There are a variety of issues, but the first question I got (I have been swapping emails with Ray on the subject) is what the heck do you do for gas for the thing? I assume it wants leaded fuel? I probably already messed stuff up cause i put 12 gal or so of Premium Unleaded in it right away before cruising around a bit.
I expect to have to rebuild the engine anyway as I have little to no documentation about it's history, but still I don't want to mess anything up.
Any advice is welcome and appreciated.
And in addition to needing some interior fixing up and a full paint job that I assume will be a good 10-12k so far I need to address (should i cross-post on the technical forum?):

It only starts in Neutral (and neutral is a bit off of where it should be visually)
The wipers dont work
The turn signals dont work (and I hear or read somewhere you can mod it with the sequential ones across the 3 lights in the rear?) - also i dont think they are working in the front or the rear (not sure where the front signals are exactly...but i dont see them blink) so maybe that means it's the switch in the column?
The horn doesn't work
The radio doesn't work (although i just want it to look right/oem and be able to play an ipod really)
The clock doesn't work
both my driver and passenger side windows are cracked and will need to be replaced
I will definitely want to swap it to disc brakes (can you do all 4 corners? or just the front?)
I will want a new steering wheel - i hate the stuff currently wrapped on it and think the white underneath is chipped and cracked
There is some interior trim that should be replaced and the seat covers too probably based on a tear in the driver back side
It seemed to smoke a bit from the defrosters and from the passenger footwell/floorboard at first, but that seems to have gone away? not sure if that's normal or what it was even. There was some antifreeze it looked like on the passenger rubber floormat too when i first got it, but doesnt look like any more has dripped there or anything - but where would that even come from?So first i want to have it gone through and make sure the engine is sorted and all the electrical stuff is addressed and hopefully get the brakes upgraded right away...and figure out how i need to fuel the thing :-)
Then I can worry about the cosmetic stuff and get it painted and all that.

I gotta say though, I really LOVE the car. It's night and day from anything else I have ever owned and it's a blast to cruise around in.

Hey David,
Welcome to the ownership of a classic car:) You named her yet?
Richard D. Hord

tbird430
02-21-2011, 01:00 PM
Nice Bird, and congrats on the original dealer broucher & ROT sheet!! :cool:

- I think adjusting the neutral safety switch might fix your 1st problem. I would also purchase a new shift detent plate & shift lever.

-I would forget the stock vaccum wiper system and purchase one of these new electric wiper kits. They bolt right into place of the original, you just need the knob extenion kit to use the stock white dash knob.

- I would send your stock AM radio off for the AM/FM conversion with RCA output jacks and stereo sound. That way the dash is uncut & still lokks OE.

-Remove your clock and send it off for a quartz conversion. This way it never stops ticking & looks factory correct too.

-Yes, you can convert to 4-whl disc brakes, It only costs money. :D

-I would get with one of our members on here, Jed Zimmerman (Ca58tbird). He makes replacement seat foam kits and offers a fantastic steering wheel restoration service too.

-I would order any needed trim (door panels, carpet, seat covers) from Concours Parts & Accy's. They are a great T-Bird parts vendor. Here's a link: http://www.concoursparts.com/

-You will need a new heater core & seal to correct your right floorboard leak. (Concours Parts will have this too).

- I don't know about that A/C dash plate. Maybe ask someone at Concours or try another member on here, Carl Heller (partsetal). I bet you can find a good original "donor" with a few phone calls.

vernz
02-22-2011, 09:27 AM
Don't give up on your original radio too quickly. I thought mine didn't work for about 6 months then turned it on and inadvertently left it on for a while. Suddenly I had sound. Turns out that I had forgotten how long it takes the radio tubes to warm up start working.

Vern

villain
02-22-2011, 02:18 PM
Don't give up on your original radio too quickly. I thought mine didn't work for about 6 months then turned it on and inadvertently left it on for a while. Suddenly I had sound. Turns out that I had forgotten how long it takes the radio tubes to warm up start working.

Vern

haha, well...there is something coming through the speakers somehow (i have been leaving it on), cause with it on and my cell phone in the car, I can get that interference noise from the phone through the speakers. I moved the dial around and can't seem to pick anything up though, so who knows.

But regardless, I doubt that original one will pipe a usb through it really easily, so I may have to go with one of the aftermarket options that still looks oem.

villain
02-22-2011, 02:27 PM
Thanks for all the help already guys.
I found a good restoration place that I went and talked to yesterday - http://realhotrods.com/index.asp
they are all about the project and I gave them my list last night as well as recommended some of the pointers you guys have already given me. They actually knew the car well and are apparently good friends with Fritz Wilson who ran the 59 in Nascar and lives up in Loveland Colorado.
They seem to stay pretty busy, but I'll get in there for the first round of getting it fully sorted and drive-ability modifications in a couple weeks.
Till then, I have still been driving it like crazy - the smoking must have been from it sitting for a while cause that hasn't happened again, the heater core/seal does apparently need to be addressed cause it's not like there is a bunch of stuff dropping in, its still shiny on that rubber mat so there is still a little coming out.
Just to add to the list - the e-brake doesnt seem to work either.
Despite all that trivial stuff - I still love it :-)

Custom Auto also said that regardless of if the engine needed a rebuild or not, that they could modify it to handle unleaded fuel better than it will in stock form...so I'll definitely be getting that done. on that same note - there is a pump south of Loveland that has 93oct, so I took advantage of that on the way out too - this car sure is thirsty :-)

tbird430
02-22-2011, 04:24 PM
Several companies actually make a lead additive for these old cars. STP is one that I still have lying around. I run the 93 octane in my 430cid too.

You really don't absolutely have to have the lead additive unless you are pulling something or really burning up the highway/interstate a lot. For these small leasure drive that you have made, you will be safe. ;)

-Jon in TX.

scumdog
02-22-2011, 07:15 PM
Several companies actually make a lead additive for these old cars. STP is one that I still have lying around. I run the 93 octane in my 430cid too.

You really don't absolutely have to have the lead additive unless you are pulling something or really burning up the highway/interstate a lot. For these small leasure drive that you have made, you will be safe. ;)

-Jon in TX.

Yup, haven't used any additive since lead went out here in Enn-Zee.

Maybe one day it might bite me on the arse (so to speak) but as of yet all is well.


I just make sure I run the highest octane I can buy - in this town it's 95 = to about 89 in the US.

In the city you can get 98 octane, my F100 runs way better on that.(11:1 429)

villain
02-23-2011, 10:48 AM
Yup, haven't used any additive since lead went out here in Enn-Zee.

Maybe one day it might bite me on the arse (so to speak) but as of yet all is well.


I just make sure I run the highest octane I can buy - in this town it's 95 = to about 89 in the US.

In the city you can get 98 octane, my F100 runs way better on that.(11:1 429)

Hope all is well for you and family in NZ dude.

Dakota Boy
02-23-2011, 11:06 PM
your experience so far seems alot like mine:

Get the car.

Make a list of everything you need/want to fix.

Then knock 'em off one by one....

Enjoy!

by the way, I got my clock to work with a little light oil... the original mechanism with all the tiny gears is SO cool. Made in Delavan, WI Dec 1957 stamped on the back. Good stuff!!!

scumdog
02-24-2011, 12:17 AM
Hope all is well for you and family in NZ dude.

Thanks for the concern, nice of you to ask but we're all well down here.

We're not troubled by any shakes of real notice as we're 270+ miles from the epicentre - still makes you wonder, especially when working under a car on axle stands.
(A few cars fell off hoists, stands etc in and around Christchurch - of course some were also just plain flattened).

Rockin Kev
02-26-2011, 12:52 AM
You see guys the j code golde are out there, black with chrome dress kit, .love it, nice to see the rot sheet with roof code 5 but if you didnt know code m for corinthian white paint but looks fab in black.

kev

Bob M
02-26-2011, 10:33 AM
Dave it looks like you have a great start on a wonderful car

villain
02-26-2011, 11:07 AM
It's going in week after next for the first round! :) they will go through the engine a bit for a tune up and just to fix anything that may be going on, do the front disc brake conversion, fix all the steering column weirdness and signals and such, replace the glass that needs to be done, etc. They should only need it a week or so and I'll have her back.

Interestingly, it seems to me like the original radio may work...basically if I turn it all the way up, I can hear static and stuff just no stations...I am wondering if that antenna on the trunk simply isn't hooked up or something. I'm gonna keep messing with it.

Dakota Boy - looks like you have some extensive work done on your ride...and like there is some serious rubber back in the rear :) got any more details or specs on your build?

villain
02-26-2011, 09:02 PM
Okay, so the horn started working tonight :-) it's not 100%, but it definitely works. and I'm pretty sure the radio works now too just needs the antenna hooked up (its a disconnected wire in the trunk). The car just keeps getting better :-)

YellowRose
02-27-2011, 12:05 AM
Hi Dave,

I was going to say to check the antenna on the passenger side by the spotlight. But after looking at all the pix of your Tbird, it looks like they took that antenna out! So your only antenna might be the one on the trunk. You are probably right. It probably is not hooked up to the radio. Keep in mind that you have vacuum tubes in the radio and it takes a few minutes for them to warm up. I would have said to check the ribbon cable that comes from the power supply/amplifier unit behind that chrome panel by your left knee. But since you said you have power and hear static, that unit must be working. So you are probably missing the the antenna connected to the back of the radio. There is also a trimmer on the bottom of the radio, in the back left corner, as I recall. Using a plastic trimmer adjustment tool, or a small flathead screw driver, try adjusting it.

If you are going to do the front disc brakes, you probably want to do the change out of the single master cylinder to a dual MC, and IF you have a power booster under the hood in the engine bay, change it out to a dual power booster. If you do not have one there, then you have one under the dash, which you can leave in, but add a dual power booster under the hood. You will also need to add a combination valve to the dual MC and dual power booster. You can get each of them in chrome from OldIrishDave shamrock_dave@yahoo.com (http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/shamrock_dave@yahoo.com) 575-544-4729 for a really decent price. You will also need a special mounting bracket to push the dual MC/dual power booster past the AC plenum. That mounting bracket is being made special by Howard Prout, here on the Forum. This dual system, chromed or not, works well, and is what I am about to put on my Tbird. You really should talk with Dave Dare ~ simplyconnected. I am sending you his phone number in email. There is a whole lot more to this disc brake conversion than you might know about. First of all, do you have 14" rims on your Tbird? Or 15" or bigger? If you have 14" rims, they might be the original ones and they will NOT work on a disc conversion, because the original rims are not set up to accept the disc brake parts inside them. I had to get a different set of rims that were off a different model, that DID have disc brakes on the car to get this to work. There is a lot more you need to know about doing this on this Tbird. Call Dave. I am sure he will not mind talking with you about this and will probably be able to save you a lot of problems doing the conversion and time and money.

Now, you want to give the mechanics who are going to be working on your Tbird, the link to the Technical Resource Library because they are going to need a lot of the information in it to work on your Tbird. If you already have a 1960 shop manual, they are gonna need that also. If you don't have one, you can get one quickly from any of the Tbird parts houses. The information on how to fix the horn problem, turn signals, shifting problems (might need a new detent plate in the steering wheel. Available from Marianne from the Home web page here, and maybe a new shift lever. The end gets worn down), is all in the Technical Resource Library. The shop manual will be a big help to them too.

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm (http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/../picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm)

villain
02-28-2011, 12:38 PM
- I don't know about that A/C dash plate. Maybe ask someone at Concours or try another member on here, Carl Heller (partsetal). I bet you can find a good original "donor" with a few phone calls.

it's in the owners manual too - its just the little metal plate that says AC or Heat on the left and right side and indicates to pull out on either that knob on the right or left. i dont see it in any catalogs and it's not like it's a big deal or anything...just that there are two holes there that are supposed to be filled by it and it would be cool to have it back on there. Well, that and it would have been pretty handy as i am trying to figure out how that AC works - i was driving around last night with it on AC, but with it set all the way warm :-) apparently the AC still works though :-)

YellowRose
02-28-2011, 01:09 PM
First of all, here is how I run my AC in Rose. At the top of the round control unit you have a Defroster control. I run mine with the Defroster knob on OFF. On the Cooler OFF Warmer control, I push the knob over on Cooler and it pretty well stays there because of our Texas heat. Below that is the Low High Blower knob. It stay on High because of what I said about Texas heat! On that missing strip that says Air Cond Heater, the left side is AC and pull it out when you want it on. The right side is Heater and keep it pushed IN when you want AC. When you want heat, push the Air Cond control IN and pull OUT the right hand Heater one.

Now, where to find that missing plate. As was suggested, send Carl ~ partsetal an email or Private Message to see if he has one. Or call Don at the Bird Nest, 800-232-6378 who thinks he has one. You can call him later on this afternoon, tell him that I called him about finding that plate for you and tell him it is you that I called him for. He thinks he has one, and is going to look for it. If he does not have one, and Carl does not have one, contact Bob at Bob's Bird House in Delaware and ask them if they have one. Or John Draxler at Thunderbird Ranch.

1960_430_AU
03-05-2011, 07:19 PM
Hi David car looks great
For those who may be able to help re the A/C plate i guess this is the one

Richard

villain
03-05-2011, 09:18 PM
Yep, that's it and I think Ray found me one at the birds nest. I've been out of town but called them with my cc# right before I left, so hopefully it'll be here soon :)
I know it's trivial and all, and I got bigger fish to fry, but those little holes there bug me- especiay knowing what 'should' be there...yeah, I'm obsessive :)
Thanks guys.

tbird430
03-07-2011, 03:19 PM
There's nothing wrong with Perfection. :D

villain
03-13-2011, 04:57 PM
WooHoo - fuse was out, now my turn signals work. bulbs were burned, now my reverse lights work.
I read another post about slightly lifting the shift lever for starting in park - now that works fine too :-) (although I did already order all the detent plate stuff, so I'll freshen it all up in there shortly).
not sure if i said this one before, but with some coercing, the horn now works too.
I got the tint off all the windows cept the doors, which the glass is cracked in, but I think i can still get the tint off them till i get the glass done here soon.

I have developed several small leaks and the thing vibrates when making right turns, but it will go into Custom Auto (realhotrods.com) here shortly to sort all that stuff. I suppose it's been good to put some miles on it to get some of this stuff to reveal itself after the car sitting for so long.
I really do love it. One of my funnest cars to date.

tp tbird
03-13-2011, 05:48 PM
Your car looks nice ,I know on the birds I have I had to take the horn apart and clean off the points inside because they sounded like a duck dieing now they work great.The radio I found the speakers magnets get leak after age if it does not sound loud.I put new speakers in and sounds good except it is AM,I did put a FM converter in so I could get the better stations that works if you don't want to go to the newer setup.

villain
03-14-2011, 03:18 PM
The radio I found the speakers magnets get leak after age if it does not sound loud.I put new speakers in and sounds good except it is AM,I did put a FM converter in so I could get the better stations that works if you don't want to go to the newer setup.

I got a new speaker on the way from BirdsNest, and was thinking about putting this in - http://www.rediscoveradio.com/
anyone used that thing?

villain
03-15-2011, 09:51 PM
Couple new pics now that I got some of the stuff that was on there off and others fixed:


Also - I think Ray told me they never actually made a spotlight for the t-bird on the passenger side...if that's the case - what should the model and stuff read on the bottom of the light/mirror right where the mount is?

Dakota Boy
03-17-2011, 11:49 PM
You lucky devil.... your car has those cool chrome pieces around the tail-lights....:cool:

I see, in your postings above, you mentioned the rear tires on my car...
They are 275/60-R15s on 10" wide Ansen Sprint mags.
With a little more backspacing, I'm pretty sure I could fit a 12" rim in there someday.
I cant take any credit for the bodywork on the rear quarter panels.
The guy I got the car from had a vision for the car, and did a fine job in making it a reality.

LONG-term goal is to have a car that will run 11's (but not below 11.5, 'cuz I dont want a roll-cage in it).
Car has a 460 engine, C-6 auto trans w/ V-Matic shifter on the console, 9" rear end with 4.10 gears and a Detroit Locker.
Hurst Roll Control installed this winter. I suppose I should start saving for new tires....cuz I'm gonna punish them this summer. Ha ha HA!

1960_430_AU
03-18-2011, 01:57 AM
Hey David
That's one hell of a "nodding dog" on the package tray. :D
Car looks really nice

Richard

villain
03-18-2011, 01:57 PM
You lucky devil.... your car has those cool chrome pieces around the tail-lights....:cool:

I see, in your postings above, you mentioned the rear tires on my car...
They are 275/60-R15s on 10" wide Ansen Sprint mags.
With a little more backspacing, I'm pretty sure I could fit a 12" rim in there someday.
I cant take any credit for the bodywork on the rear quarter panels.
The guy I got the car from had a vision for the car, and did a fine job in making it a reality.

LONG-term goal is to have a car that will run 11's (but not below 11.5, 'cuz I dont want a roll-cage in it).
Car has a 460 engine, C-6 auto trans w/ V-Matic shifter on the console, 9" rear end with 4.10 gears and a Detroit Locker.
Hurst Roll Control installed this winter. I suppose I should start saving for new tires....cuz I'm gonna punish them this summer. Ha ha HA!

Dude that sounds incredibly cool :-) got any more pics you can link me to?

villain
03-18-2011, 01:58 PM
Hey David
That's one hell of a "nodding dog" on the package tray. :D
Car looks really nice

Richard

haha, Diesel loves that car. He can look out without standing on anything and when we roll around he normally looks out the back like that. He's loving the tint being gone :-)

Dakota Boy
03-18-2011, 04:44 PM
More pics, you say?

I have a thread in "our rides" that sorta documents the trials and tribulations I've had since I got the car in '09.

YellowRose
12-11-2016, 01:14 PM
I just got a couple of emails with pix of Dave's ~ villian, new Golde Top acquisition! It has been a few years since we last heard from him, but here is the new one and it looks to be a beauty! He is gonna modernize it. I see it even has that unobtainian Golde Top bar across the front of the top! Here is what Dave had to say and the pix.

"Hey Ray! Long time sir. I figured I would show you what I was up to :) Finally found a new Golde and am doing this one right! 4-link rear, airbag suspended, bored and stroked with individual throttle bodies, etc etc. It should be perfect :) Hope y'all are well!

villain
12-11-2016, 01:45 PM
Hey everyone! Glad to be back!
It took me forever to find another Golde that was the 'right car', but the build is underway and it should be on the road by late Feb sometime.
Taking this one to the 9s :-)

YellowRose
12-17-2016, 12:37 PM
Dave sent me some pix of his disc brake conversion on his '60 Golde Top. Here they are! It is looking good!

villain
12-17-2016, 12:44 PM
Airbag suspension is on that front end too :-)
The rear is next!

Dan Leavens
12-17-2016, 10:30 PM
Dave looking pretty sweet. Keep the pixs coming along with the rebuild:D

simplyconnected
12-18-2016, 02:54 PM
I like this job because it shows, there's more than one way to skin this cat. It may not be the cheapest, it may not use 14" wheels and the pads may not be available at all auto parts stores BUT, it's a nice system that will function far better than stock.

Everyone has their own way of doing things. This example is really nice, using modern materials and methods. I love it. - Dave

villain
07-21-2017, 01:52 AM
We ended up going a lot bigger with the brakes :-)
And engine is almost done - Barnett High Performance built it.
Suspension is done too.
I will send some pics. It is getting close! :-)

villain
07-21-2017, 02:17 AM
Final color will be Ferrari's Grigio Medio. But we will wait a bit to do that for final tweaks and such.
I head to Colorado to spec the interior with Mr. Sids on Monday (black and ox blood red)

YellowRose
07-21-2017, 03:48 AM
It has been quite some time since I last heard from David ~ villain. I see he has been busy. He just sent me a bunch of pix and I will post them so you can see what he has been up to with customizing his beautiful '60 Golde Top! You will also see a pic of his electronic fuel injection system...

YellowRose
08-12-2017, 05:47 PM
David ~ villain just sent me some more pix of his customized '60 Golde Top that he has been working on. Feast your eyes on these!

Wyldie
08-12-2017, 07:32 PM
Sweet baby Jesus! Love it all, where did you get the custom gauges?

villain
08-12-2017, 09:13 PM
Sweet baby Jesus! Love it all, where did you get the custom gauges?

Thank you :-) Those were from Speed Hut in Utah. The ghosting of my logo in the faces worked out great!

YellowRose
09-08-2017, 11:28 AM
Dave ~ villain has been busy modernizing his J Code! Here is a pic of his rack and pinion steering going in and his disc brake setup:

simplyconnected
09-08-2017, 01:36 PM
Love, love, LOVE the rack and pinion steering. He used the existing holes from the old steering box and idler arm for his R &P gear brackets.

What we don't see is his measurements, taken while the engine was still in place. That's how it's done.

I like the fact that R&P offers more room for exhaust on the LH side and more room for starter motor maintenance on the RH side.

The rear end is a beast. It's going to need a Panhard bar. Nice job! - Dave

byersmtrco
10-12-2017, 04:52 PM
I had a 71 Charger


Dave it looks like you have a great start on a wonderful car

byersmtrco
10-12-2017, 04:54 PM
I LOVE IT!!
That Sunroof is AWESOME !!!!

4200 Lb's of WoopA__!!!!!!!!!!

The whole thing!!!!!!

YellowRose
11-02-2017, 01:53 AM
Dave sent me three new pix of his engine which is about to go together. Here is what he had to say and the pix.

"It's about to go together! 444cu in, 471hp 495ft lb torque".

Dan Leavens
11-02-2017, 09:22 AM
Sweet looking set up:D

pbf777
11-02-2017, 12:39 PM
Congratulations on your efforts with this project! :)

Love the individual runner stack intake system! Perhaps this manifold is of a plenum design vs. I.R.? What are the throttle bore diameters?

For one who may be looking for the "9's", or just to utilize the greatest potential possible from the engine, if of an I.R. design, note that stack length will/is compromised from the potential "ideal" for appearance & packaging (hood clearance), and that the small individual air cleaners will interfere with top-end performance. :(

Also, at this level of build, did your engine builder discuss oil pan options/concerns? The unit as seen in the photos appears O.E.M. production, or at least of the same approximate holding capacity? :confused:

Scott.

villain
11-04-2017, 05:05 PM
Pretty sure the diameters are 50mm - I believe it's this kit?: http://www.efisupply.com/inglese_efi.htm

The engine builder is Barnett High Performance in MI. BR Cars in Colorado is doing the rest of the build.
I have been pretty much leaving it to the team - with my requirements defined obviously...I will have to ask about the oil pan. I still want a new/larger fuel tank on it too.
It is intended to be a cruiser that I can roll up and down the coast of CA, so I am not super concerned with every ounce of potential - I have access to faster cars to run fast track times with :-) I just want it to run strong, capable of highway cruising, and lay big burnouts :-)

Congratulations on your efforts with this project! :)

Love the individual runner stack intake system! Perhaps this manifold is of a plenum design vs. I.R.? What are the throttle bore diameters?

For one who may be looking for the "9's", or just to utilize the greatest potential possible from the engine, if of an I.R. design, note that stack length will/is compromised from the potential "ideal" for appearance & packaging (hood clearance), and that the small individual air cleaners will interfere with top-end performance. :(

Also, at this level of build, did your engine builder discuss oil pan options/concerns? The unit as seen in the photos appears O.E.M. production, or at least of the same approximate holding capacity? :confused:

Scott.

pbf777
11-06-2017, 11:46 AM
I will have to ask about the oil pan. [/QUOTE]


Just a few topics for your inquiry if you wish:

What is the intended capacity of the currently installed oil pan?

What size oil pump rotor & scroll, .875" (standard volume) or 1.100" ( hi-volume) or?

With the dyno-work, was the oil pumping volume measured? And or, impression of oil level in the pan as operating established?

Scott.